Levis 501 1966 Dd Selvedge

[ButteMT61]

This thread is a 180 from the "smell of horsehide" thread. I'm off to find my wallet...

 

[Fanch]

I seem to recall wearing these type of jeans when I was a kid growing up but for several decades wore Levis 505, but lately Bill's Khakis 100% cotton 5 pocket jeans. However, being partial to Filson products, I noticed in their most recent catalog that Filson also makes Denim Selvage Jeans in both straight leg and slim fit designs but at a cost of $198! Does anyone have any experience with the Filson Denim Selvage Jeans?

http://www.filson.com/search/?q=Selvage Jeans

 

[ButteMT61]

Fanch, as you know, I'm still hunting for awesome selvedge. Looking at Pike Bros and Iron Hearts. Both though seem tough to get here without paying ridiculous shipping, etc.
I'd like to know how Filson stacks up as well.

 

[injunjack]

Butte

Great choises both. Pike Bros is more vintage, and I can't comment on their heavyweight denim. IH on the other hand is a bit modernized, but their signature 21oz. denim is spectacular.

 

[Fanch]

Butte

Great choises both. Pike Bros is more vintage, and I can't comment on their heavyweight denim. IH on the other hand is a bit modernized, but their signature 21oz. denim is spectacular.

Problem with Pike and IH involves high shipping and duty into the US.

 

[schitzo]

Afternoon chaps. I have found this a very interesting and educational thread. Thanks. In fact, I've decided to get a pair of Iron hearts, as Trapp's advice about 'going all in' would seem to make good sense. I've now figured out that my levis are all actually a fair bit bigger than the tags say and am ready to order the correct size. The only last thing that I am still a bit unsure about is, what's the difference between overdyed and regular? Specifically, both of the pairs I am looking at look like dark blue to me, so what is the appeal of 'overdyed'? Is it just that those are a little bit darker? If this is a really dumb question I'm sorry, but I would still like to know even if that is my answer! So if any of you can clarify, please do

All the best
Schitz

 

[ButteMT61]

Going all in (spending a ton on jeans) requires care. Some shrink, some don't. Some run large, some don't. You have to ask lots of questions in lieu of trying them on. I'm still skittish to pull the trigger on $300 jeans.

 

[Dav]

I've got an OD Iron Heart denim shirt so can vouch for the fact that it is very different to the non OD. Basically the 634S are dark indigo the 634sb are the same dark indigo but dyed black so you will end up with darker fades, but eventually after many washes they will look pretty similar.

 

[schitzo]

I see. I'm looking at the IHxBO1, and they're said not to shrink. From what you are saying Dav OD or otherwise won't make a lot of difference in which case I'll probably avoid OD this time. I hear what you are saying there too Scott and at 400+ dollars I realise some forethought is needed. Dunno what ounce the regular levi jeans I wear now are, but I've often wondered why the denim feels so flimsy. Presumably this is a way to ensure I need to buy another pair in the not too distant future? Can anyone who owns 21oz jeans give me a heads up on what to expect in terms of comfort and 'work needed'? Have just read an alarming though amusing marriage.****** analogy that's got me thinking..

 

[Dav]

I've got some IH 21oz jeans and some 23 and 25 as well, when you first put them on they feel very stiff, to the point you'll think are they actually wearable, but rest assured they soon soften and mould to your shape, especially the 21oz.

Edit
You shouldn't have any problem with shrinkage with the IHxB01 as the denim has been sanforized to avoid this, you will however get an inch, or more if required, stretch in the waist, my 634xhs have stretched al least 1'' if not a bit more

 

[schitzo]

thanks Dav I'll probably try a pair in 21oz. I just want a good solid pair that I can take with me if I go travelling overseas to places where I cannot easily get good jeans

 

[ButteMT61]

I've got some IH 21oz jeans and some 23 and 25 as well, when you first put them on they feel very stiff, to the point you'll think are they actually wearable, but rest assured they soon soften and mould to your shape, especially the 21oz.EditYou shouldn't have any problem with shrinkage with the IHxB01 as the denim has been sanforized to avoid this, you will however get an inch, or more if required, stretch in the waist, my 634xhs have stretched al least 1'' if not a bit more

Dav, do you wash/rinse/soak the 21’s? What's up with the stretching? First time I've heard that.

 

[ButteMT61]

Which jeans on this page, Dav?
http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=denim

 

[Dav]

No, I just wear them as they come when new, they're sanforised so no need to wash or soak first, of course you can do if you want.
As for the stretching, pretty much all denim will stretch an inch or so if required, I'm actually about a 35'' so find the 34'' will stretch out just fine, whereas 36'' would be too big.

 

[Dav]

Which jeans on this page, Dav?
http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=denim

The Iron Heart 21oz straight cut IH634S, first one in the IH section.
Aero don't carry the IHxB01 that Schitzo is looking at, same denim though.

If you're looking for a pair Butte check out www.selfedge.com , no import tax or nasty VAT.

 

[ButteMT61]

The Iron Heart 21oz straight cut IH634S, first one in the IH section. Aero don't carry the IHxB01 that Schitzo is looking at, same denim though.

Thanks. They show no length, so what are they? I really want a long pair...

 

[Dav]

Take a look here for actual sizing and length.
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=23

 

[trapp]

I think good advice is being given in terms of Iron Heart. Their standard 634s model (21oz) is a great jean to start with precisely because of the lack of care needed. All you need to do is get the size that works best for you and wear them. Stiffness is relative when it comes to raw denim. Especially considering the heavy weight of the 21oz IH denim, I consider it to be remarkably soft and responsive right from the start. Unlike many or even most raw jeans when you first get them, their is nothing 'cardboardy' about the IH 21oz. That long-staple zimbabwe cotton is very flexible.

As Dav mentions, they're sanforized, so they won't shrink much with washing, certainly not as much as unsanforized denim. Still, you need to understand that denim is made from cotton, and all cotton shrinks when washed, then stretches again when stressed (or worn). The dimensions of the waistband will never be completely stable but if you size right with these it's not a problem, they'll feel a bit snugger after every wash and then mold to your body again in after a day or two of wear. The waistband is the place that sees the most stretch, but if you wear any jeans for a period without washing you'll notice stretch in the rear, thighs and knees as well.

Self Edge is your source for the 634s if you're stateside. You may want to double check their website or call for their return/exchange policy, because last I checked, 1) shipping was free, and 2) you could order, try on, and exchange for another size if needed (don't remove any tags, you cover shipping). This would work well with someone just stepping into raw denim, esp. the IH since they aren't shrink to fit.

Do note that the 634s is a mid-rise cut on the modern side in the top-block area. So if you've been wearing high-rise 501s your whole life these may initially feel a little different. I wear mostly traditional highrise jeans (501's and repros based on 501 cuts) but also some mid-rises like the 634s and the Flat Head f380, and whenever I move from a highrise to a midrise I notice the difference. Less I be misunderstood, the 634s is not a low-rise; you don't have to worry about showing crack. But it sits on top of your hips rather than right up on your waist.

People looking for the same denim in a higher rise do have the option of the IH 1955. It's a different cut with a very high rise, and VERY loosely based on the 501 1955 (whereas the 634s is not a repro). For this model you do have to go through either Aero or Giles (at Iron Heart U.K.) as Self Edge doen't carry it. I don't own this jean yet but I will; with the higher rise combined with IH's amazing 21oz denim it's right in my wheelhouse. For me, the 634s sometimes feels a touch low (I go back and forth on it, tbh) but most people don't find it so. Again, I have a strong tendency/bias toward high-rises.

If you opt for the IH 1955, the only difference between the Aero and the IH UK offerings is the patch detail (I don't like Aeros).

 

[ButteMT61]

Great info Trapp. Upon reflection, I can't justify the cost of any of these jeans. I've got to go with "good enough" with what I have here. Really good post though for others to read. I'll save that in case I win the lotto or inherit a fortune

 

[trapp]

Ha, yeah, your wallet will thank you for that timely reflection.

Since Self Edge and IH are being mentioned, it makes sense for the sake of completeness to mention the other great source for denim in North America: Blue in Green (akd BIG) in New York. Don't want to mislead anyone into thinking IH is the only good option, or the only option for very heavy denim. A quick visit to Big's website will key you into a million other good options. Some might be easier on the wallet--and some might be harder

There are also lots of smaller local houses, esp. in the Bay Area.