Most Thoughtful Jacket Design Features

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Moontanning, Apr 5, 2021.

  1. Moontanning

    Moontanning Familiar Face

    Messages:
    81
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    What are the most thoughtful design features of your jackets? Maybe it's something subtle, maybe it's more integral to the overall design. Maybe it's something an old favorite of yours had which you wish was also on your current jackets. I have my own "wish list" but would love to hear from others on what took your jackets from good to great, made it more durable, practical, special, or just plain made life easier.

    For example, I see many others here experiencing what I have in the past of sleeve zippers catching on or scratching watches. I would consider moving them under instead of on top or doing what I've seen with bespoke suits and make the watch wrist opening just a little bigger to accommodate the watch more easily.
     
  2. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,409
    Location:
    SoCal
    I love how on certain vintage jackets the sleeve ends are angled slightly. This allows for full motion of your thumb while giving the same distance for your pinkie finger. It feels and looks right to me, and most modern makers don’t do it.
     
    Jin431, jonbuilder, El Marro and 5 others like this.
  3. JustinW

    JustinW Practically Family

    Messages:
    736
    Location:
    In The Flat Field
    Using a thinner leather on the wrist gusset so it doesn't bunch up so much when fully zipped.
     
    Jin431, Bfd70, El Marro and 3 others like this.
  4. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,409
    Location:
    SoCal
    Or doing a windflap style like the Indian Ranger.
     
    Jin431 and navetsea like this.
  5. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,225
    Snap by the zipper’s bottom stop. To take pressure off the tape when seated.
     
    Jin431, JustinW, jonbuilder and 2 others like this.
  6. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    8,409
    Location:
    SoCal
    Kehoe actually sewed their male zipper pin angled out a bit to make it easier to zip up the jacket.
    15A5BF17-7A92-495B-9C54-DDB50F8ADE76.jpeg
    I also appreciate the little pen holder that Thedi puts on his inside pocket.
     
    Jin431, Cornelius, JustinW and 7 others like this.
  7. JMax

    JMax I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,225
    Some Vanson have the pen holder, very handy. Vanson also can sew a small snap keychain into larger pockets to make it easier to get to keys. They just dangle by the opening. Pretty cool.
     
    Jin431, navetsea and jonesy86 like this.
  8. Monitor

    Monitor

    Messages:
    13,157
    Shoulder gussets a la Cal Leathers. It's a miracle how much of a game-changer well designed gussets can be.

    [​IMG]
     
    Jin431, Cornelius, Bfd70 and 7 others like this.
  9. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,769
    Location:
    Iowa
    I like shirt-style collars that snap-down. Great for use on a Motorcycle, or even in a Convertable car.

    I also still dig western "V-yokes" however they have gotten so popular that the appear seems to have faded a bit, for me at least.
     
    Jin431 and Monitor like this.
  10. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    12,163
    Location:
    Chicago
    I like features that hide functionality. These pockets on my latest jacket are fully functional but are tight to the body, giving a sort of French seam illusion of being sewn shut. Little tromp l'oeil like this built into jackets always makes me happy.
    D67D44DC-354D-4365-A0B4-7B088C3C59DE.jpeg
     
    handymike, Jin431, Cornelius and 6 others like this.
  11. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,115
    Location:
    East Java
    Why makers only make gussets on the back panel and stop at the side panel? Would give a lot more mobility if the gusset is continued on the side panel too.
     
    Cornelius likes this.
  12. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,115
    Location:
    East Java
    I like the inside pocket on usually longer type 3 denim jacket made from handwarmer's pocket bag.
     
  13. Thedi: Inside pocket zip and my name plus date jacket was finished....
    20190115_172722.jpg
     
    handymike, Salmosalar, Jin431 and 6 others like this.
  14. Graemsay

    Graemsay Practically Family

    Messages:
    968
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I think that a lot of jackets end up being too complicated, and that you'd be better served by stripping away features. The designs that I'm leaning towards at the moment are those with fewer pockets, no gussets, unlined, and generally simpler and more minimalist.

    The unlined Himel Kensington that I posted a few weeks ago is the sort of thing that I'm looking at these days.

    [​IMG]
     
    navetsea likes this.
  15. Wouldn't an unlined jacket be very 'clingy' and difficult to take off and put on? Never could understand the desire for an unlined jacket. Change my mind.
    HD
     
    navetsea and ton312 like this.
  16. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    12,163
    Location:
    Chicago
    Works with a t shirt or no shirt underneath. I had a really lovely type III that was unlined. It was more a shirt than a jacket as the lack of liner made it next to impossible to put on over a long sleeve shirt. If I did wrestle my way in...took 10 minutes to get out.
     
  17. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,115
    Location:
    East Java
    Not a fan of suede on skin feel, but I like pocketless jacket.

    Btw is there a reason against putting leather facing all around the lining? Thats is always my standard config
    Screenshot_20210406-074249_Gallery.jpg
    I feel it prolongs the life of the liner, especially on the back of the collar and back of the hem from getting chewed on from grinding against another clothes.
     
    Jin431, Moontanning and Cornelius like this.
  18. El Marro

    El Marro Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,644
    Location:
    California
    I really like the horizontal “gun pocket” as seen on the G-1 and many other jackets. So much easier to access with the jacket zipped up partway and something I specify on all of my jackets when given the choice.
     
    Jin431 and JMax like this.
  19. Graemsay

    Graemsay Practically Family

    Messages:
    968
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I've not owned one, but I've never had a problem getting into them when I've tried them on. However, they probably work best in rough out with the grain side providing a smoother surface.

    I always put holes in liners in a short order. I had an Aero Veste de Rallye, and I wore through the Alpaca in next to no time. So removing them should increase a jacket's durability. Plus it's pretty warm in Australia: Melbourne has a similar climate to SF, Sydney's is like LA. So there's a desire to keep outwear lighter and cooler.

    They're not good for motorcycling. The raw leather can catch on your skin in an off, a liner helps it slide better and reduces injuries.
     
  20. Moontanning

    Moontanning Familiar Face

    Messages:
    81
    Location:
    Philadelphia
    I very much appreciate this feature in a jacket as well. Maybe it’s to keep cost down by using less leather?
     
    navetsea likes this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.