My latest designs I thought you guys might be interested

[alfyman]

I love it, The Collar although I would love to see a large mouton fur collar...

 

[himelator]

:O) I got that feeling from your profile pic

 

[himelator]

couple notes about the design...it was a 1930s canadian design...copied by a few companies down here in the schmata district of spadina...and showed up as far away as vancouver. it was euro inspired..with the cafe collar most of the time and the funny angular tabs...the shell design was a way of saving leather ...when you had to cut one large back piece you needed to cut out the centre of the hide but 6 small pieces was easier to find good pieces to cut. The sewing and cutting was cheaper then the materials. the half belt was sewn onl which at the surface would seem weird but if you think about it its purpose is different that what you would think. It was not so much to tighten the jacket at the waist as to form two loose vents down the sides of the back for shoulder expansion...before the by swing back it created the motion and slack in the design for movement. The piece sewn on top reinforced the tabs on the waist to give them extra strength. That is my best guess from looking at the jackets over the years

Wow- neat back, bit of an odd design though. Note how the back is one piece with no side panels- the halfbelt is just a square of leather that is sewn on in the middle of the panel- not structural like it is on most half belts. Unless there is a seam hidden under the side tabs?


Cheers
Mark

 

[Fly Boy]

That Gould is incredible!

 

[Fletch]

The sewing and cutting was cheaper then the materials.

And when that changed, it killed the beltback, boxback, action back, what have you. Leather or not.