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New Shirts

White collars and cuffs

Marc Chevalier said:
Egyptian cotton shirts fray fairly quickly at the collar (where it meets the tie knot) and at the french cuffs (where they fold over). My dad favored Turnbull & Asser dress shirts, but they didn't last long.

Aristocrats often prefer a sort of "shabby chic." Don't be surprised to see them wearing frayed (but expensive) shirts, and bespoke suits with fraying sleeve and trouser cuffs. It's a way to distinguish the upper class twits from the nouveaux-riches.

I read somewhere, that this was another reason for the emergence of (attached) white collars and cuffs on colored shirts. Apparently some (most?) shirt-makers would replace collars and cuffs for well less than the cost of a new shirt. What with washing and fading, you couldn't expect to match the fabrics, but white looked rather dashing, so white it was.

Sardou
 

Hemingway Jones

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Mycroft said:
I just found these "sporting shirts" at Brooks Brothers:
And non-iron too.
Mycroft, what a coincidence! I just bought three of their non-iron shirts. I bought the slim fit with blue and white stripes, a white, and a blue all in non-iron. I bought them at lunch on Wednesday and they were at my door on Thursday by 4 PM. They are very impressive shirts and their delivery is even more impressive.
I may go for some of these; they would be perfect with a summer suit.
 
Okay, I bought my first BB made to measure shirts over a year ago - 120 Egyptian - and for having worn them about 30 times each, with cleaning, they've held up pretty well. No fraying, no pillling. But the problem with Egyptian cotton shirts is that they invevitably get ruined by the dry-cleaners. They get pressed directly and take on a shine, especially at the ends of the collars. They're supposed to be pressed with a towel between the press an the shirt, (or inside out) and few cleaners know this, or perhaps care. I keep on planning to buy invest in a steam press and just wash and press the shirts myself. Maybe it's time for that.

Yeah, my thinking Marty M. I've gone into Thomas Pink a few times here in NY and I leave shaking my head. Their shirts are over $200 and you can't get exactly what you want. Just go get them made somewhere for $150.00. You get the cuffs you like, the collar you like, no pocket, pocket, etc. And yes, that's a lot of jack, but I justify it by the average cost of my suits which is $20.00.

Regards,

Senator Jack
 
I agree ...

... On the custom made shirt thing: If i buy a non-thrift shirt, it is custom made (the only way to get under size 14.5 neck shirts!). The online Thai tailor route is excellent. They make some d*mn fine shirts. For about $30 a pop in decent quality cotton. Once you've got your measurments sorted, you're away. Those are some of the best shirts i own. you guys should check it out if you haven't already. I will stake my reputation (such as it is) on the quality of workmanship.

bk
 

Mycroft

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Wow, really I did not know Thailand had a thriving industry of fine taliors, I thought that was Hong Kong. Also, at $30 a pop that cheaper that some of the shirts that are not custom in a lot places.
 

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