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Noob sizing question, comparing Schott to Aero/Vanson/Real Mccoy

leathersizor

New in Town
Messages
11
Hey guys, i have a bit of a complicated sizing question.

Im planning to order one of these jackets and for various reasons i wont be able to return or exchange if size isnt right, so trying to nail it from the first time.

The only decent leather jacket i own is the Schott unlined 581 jacket:


I am size small in it and It fits me perfect for my taste.
schott-jpg.472551


I am usually a size 38 in most jackets, i like a snug fit and i almost never button my casual or leather jackets.


I want to buy a black cafe racer from vanson, aero, or real mccoy next (the model comet plu, board racer or buco j 100). My concern is that when i check the posted measurements of those jackets, the shoulders for size small or 38 are often 18 inches +, while my schott is 16 or 16.5 inches (measured it myself to check also).

Is that because its unlined? I wouldnt want the shoulders to stick out too much.

I (badly) measured my chest and its about 40/41 inches. im 5'8 and weight goes between 155-165 lbs


Can anyone who tried this schott or has it compare the sizing to the other models i want to buy? like i said i dont need a perfect fit, id rather err on the snug side than the larger side (i just wear a tshirt under it).

Should i just go with the 38?
 

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Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Europe
First of all: Congrats! All your choices are really great jackets!

To your sizing issue: You don´t want to go by tag-size alone. It´s just a number, and it will mean different things for your models (The Board Racer being the most fitted; the Vanson the most generous out of the three).

My best advice would be to get sizing assistance directly from the makers. Both Aero and RMC offer excellent advice when you reach out to them via e-mail. As for Vanson, I´ve heard differing opinions. A solution may be to go via Thurston-Bros. as they are excellent on the service side and also offer a fit-jacket process. IT may however be too costly going through them, depending on where you are based.

Based on the above, I shouldn´t really say it, but:
- I am a no. 44 in the Board Racer and the RMC J-100
- a no. 42 in Vanson and
- consider myself a "true" size 42.

But please don´t go by that only. It´s also relevant to understand HOW one measures. Ask three people to measure a P2P and you get four results.

Good luck!
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,273
shoulder measurement has a more forgiving range than say ptp. So within reason, it's more of an aesthetic thing than a fit thing. However, there are limits. Going too small will create tightness and discomfort. Jacket will still fit, but it won't be fun. Too big, and it'll look sloppy.

I think I had this Schott model or something very similar. I had it in medium and it was unwearable, mostly because of the shoulder measurement. I think at 17.5 I start to notice it. I find 18-19 is my sweet spot but I have stuff that goes all the way up to 20.

Long story short, I bet 16 on shoulders is at your limit. So going to 18, it's well within range. If the ptp is about the same, then I think you're good. And just by gut feel, 38 sounds about right for your sizing for RMC. Aero has a wide range depending on the style for instance cafe racer fits different than board racer. Vanson notoriously runs big but I don't remember the specifics of each of their racer styles. Also remember to notice if shoulder gussets or not. Usually you can push ptp and shoulder measurement if they have the gussets.
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,465
Location
SoFlo
16.5" shoulder width for a guy five-eight and 155-165 lbs sounds awfully narrow. I bet that the only reason it fits is that there is no liner. I am five-eight and 145 lbs and I can take shoulder width from 17-18", 18" being the sweet spot. 19" for me is max, otherwise the shoulders are too droopy. My P2P sweet spot is 21", my chest circumference being 38". 4" of ease works for me. I don't do any weight training, so average build. I'd say 18" shoulder width in any of the jackets you mention will be good for you.
 
Messages
16,463
I'll go against the rest of the posts snd suggest you to buy the size you wear, regardless of the maker.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,049
Location
claremont california
Good luck with the jackets. Sizes most of the time is constant with their production. However, sometimes some jacket makers are off by their published size dimensions. Choose a particular jacket you want. Then contact the maker.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
Hey guys, i have a bit of a complicated sizing question.

Im planning to order one of these jackets and for various reasons i wont be able to return or exchange if size isnt right, so trying to nail it from the first time.

The only decent leather jacket i own is the Schott unlined 581 jacket:

[/URL]

I am size small in it and It fits me perfect for my taste.
schott-jpg.472551


I am usually a size 38 in most jackets, i like a snug fit and i almost never button my casual or leather jackets.


I want to buy a black cafe racer from vanson, aero, or real mccoy next (the model comet plu, board racer or buco j 100). My concern is that when i check the posted measurements of those jackets, the shoulders for size small or 38 are often 18 inches +, while my schott is 16 or 16.5 inches (measured it myself to check also).

Is that because its unlined? I wouldnt want the shoulders to stick out too much.

I (badly) measured my chest and its about 40/41 inches. im 5'8 and weight goes between 155-165 lbs


Can anyone who tried this schott or has it compare the sizing to the other models i want to buy? like i said i dont need a perfect fit, id rather err on the snug side than the larger side (i just wear a tshirt under it).

Should i just go with the 38?
If you are a size 38 and can do some homework on sizing, I just found a size 38 ELMC/Eastman J100 on EBay with a starting bid of $700 new with tags. They retail for around $1,400 depending on the exchange rate with GBP, that will blow that Schott out if the water.
It’s not my listing just reference, I have been in love with that jacket since I saw a member here posting pictures of it. It’s the main reason I bought my Himel Kensington which has similar design details
 
Messages
16,463
I've been trying to outsmart the makers for 10 years and failed every single ******** time. Recently I've had a chance to try a ton of leather jackets by most makers we like here and I was a size 40 in each. And we're talking a dead-on size 40. And the jackets were all over the board when it comes to style, numbers, etc.

What I'm saying here is, all of these good makers, Schott, Vanson, Aero, RMC... They know what they're doing. Trust them. If you're a 38, get a 38.
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,306
Location
South of Nashville
Measuring a p2p is simple. There is only one way to do it.

First pull the leather tight across the chest and back and then let the leather relax. The measurement should then be taken thusly:

P2P.jpg
 

chollie

One of the Regulars
Messages
111
Location
usa
For reverence, i've got a Comet Plu-3 in size 40. I'm 5'11", 180, probably a 41 or 42" chest, and it's a good snug fit. T-shirt or a flannel at best under it.

I used to have a Schott 141 in a 42 and that thing was HUUUGE. I was riding bikes at the time, and even with a hoodie it was too big.

For the money I think the Plu-3 is hard to beat for a no frills classic cafe. They are not uncommon here in the classifieds either.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
I'll go against the rest of the posts snd suggest you to buy the size you wear, regardless of the maker.

I think this is usually sound advice in term of capturing the proverbial “author’s intent” of the pattern but I would add a big caveat. You can take this route with the big Western makers and you will generally be fine.

Some overseas makers, including RMC for many jackets, Schott Japan (US made but different line), and the famously “barf-worthy” brand do reverse vanity sizing. For example, a size 44 Japanese market Perfecto measures like a size 36 Western one– definitely not something you can follow your tagged size for.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
see how the jacket sit flat, it the jacket has somekind of waist and the leather is sufficiently robust, it will keep its shape and look nice on, the same jacket can be worn by several different shaped people that still would fit in it and all would look good, but if the jacket is shapeless boxy then it will look boxy on whoever wear it.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,223
Location
Germany
The Aero probably has the narrowest shoulders out of these three jackets. That being said, having owned and still owning plenty of Aero and Vanson jackets, I would pick the Vanson.

I am 5‘10, 165-170 lbs athletic and I have found going down 1/2-1 size in Vansons is where they fit me best. If I go down two sizes, I may still be able to squeeze into them (not at all syles but the boxier ones) but they don‘t feel comfortable to wear.

tldr: looking at your numbers, I believe you should buy a size 38 with Vanson.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
That's actually bona fide Brooks but yeah, it looks great.

Yeah I was referring to Vanson’s own language in the description but it more closely resembles the Brooks that succeeded Buco. Probably higher quality than modern Brooks by a wide margin.
 
Messages
16,463
Yeah I was referring to Vanson’s own language in the description but it more closely resembles the Brooks that succeeded Buco. Probably higher quality than modern Brooks by a wide margin.

Yeah, I just realized that after clicking on the link,t hey're referring to it as a Buco style which is... A bit strange but that's okay. There was one in Germany a few years back, I regret not getting it. It didn't have the patches, too. But I didn't have the money at the time.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
I don’t think the Vanson comes with those patches by default; they’re not on the version worn by the employee.
 

leathersizor

New in Town
Messages
11
I found an aero on their website that has exact measurements as my Schott, but it says reserved. Think im gonna wait to see if it becomes available again.

Otherwise will probably pony up the extra cash for the real mccoy.


Thanks for all the replies guys! made more comfortable going for it
 

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