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Photos of hatters tools

Messages
17,188
Location
Maryland
Yes that is what I saw at TONAK. They use a wooden block to make the open crown, finish the felt and use metal blocks to form the complete hat.

Metal blocks are mentioned in early 20th Century German and Austrian hat trade publications. I assume it was the same in America. Here is an Austrian ad from December 1912 (see Hutformen). By the way Holz is wood in German.

6890236283_a852e497c0_o.gif


1928

6890234995_eec54438b5_b.jpg


1930

6890266643_89049ee9b4_b.jpg
 
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Brad Bowers

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Messages
4,187
Has anybody built their own sandbag/baker? I've come to realize I could use one, as hand-ironing on the flange gives uneven shrinkage all the way around. The sandbag is a no-brainer, but I'm wondering what could make a safe electric baker for it.

Brad
 

zetwal

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Messages
4,343
Location
Texas
I actually prefer the look of a hand-creased felt hat to the ones formed on a shaped block at the factory, for a few reasons, not the least of which being that no two hand-creased hats will ever be quite exactly the same. I suspect that puts me in good company around this place.

Good company? I don't know about that ... ;)

But I do share your preference. I'm also a member of the wonky sub-culture. By that I mean that I don't strive for perfect (or perfectly uniform) creases.
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
... But I gotta assume that their felt hats are blocked and pounced on open crown blocks and then the crown shape is stamped in with a shaped block and something akin to a tipper that presses the felt into the block. I just can't imagine how to machine pounce a hat on anything but an open crown block.

You assume correctly Tony. The pouncing machines do brims & crowns & the crowns are open, at least in the only factory tour where they finished a hat = HatCo.
 

Aureliano

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Messages
4,753
Location
Macondo.
You assume correctly Tony. The pouncing machines do brims & crowns & the crowns are open, at least in the only factory tour where they finished a hat = HatCo.

+1 Same at the Borsalino factory and the Cervo. I've been to both. I think that's standard. (Optimo, too)
 

zetwal

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Messages
4,343
Location
Texas
My gastroenterologist has one of these gizmos, 'cept his has a 27-inch Sony Trinitron mounted to it.

That is a scary looking object. And now, after hearing your comment, I'm down right now terrified by it ... ;)
 

ellis.lauramarie

New in Town
Messages
1
Location
Gulf Shores, AL
Any info on these pieces?

Hey guys! I'm so glad I found this forum. I was given some old hat making tools and am not sure exactly what some of them are. I've done some research but am a bit confused. I just listed one, but would love some feedback on exactly what I have! I want to do the pieces justice and be able to really tell people what they are. Looks like you guys are the experts... any info would be really appreciated!


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAACQ/VlcMkaXFxHo/s570/19011222526.jpg

bottom view:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAACY/L3G-1sTKlB8/s570/19011223469.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAAC0/y0lKnMSKe0M/s570/19011348941.jpg

these were in the same box as some hat blocks:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAACg/P5gRp53nPqw/s570/19011232547.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-.../AAAAAAAAACo/3HWa3mDCwDU/s570/19011243511.jpg
 

majormoore

Vendor
Messages
802
Brad.
I made one years ago from a small wash tub, a pulley and some handles, it worked really good. Get a wash tub, turn upside down , make a 5 inch hole in center, put a handle that is large enough to go from side to side of that hole and bolt!!! it onto the tub. flip the tub over and place a good canvas heavy cloth on the tub, tie the cloth onto the tub, flip back over. Find a rafter above your work table and put a pulley on the rafter, fix a hook , above the table on the wall, where to wrap the rope at. Now fill the tub up with sand, pull it up just high enough to clear, your flange and stand, and wrap the rope around the wall hook, so it does not fall. When your ready to flange, lower the tub onto the flange and stand. When done pull it up, and tie off again.

Mike
 

Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Brad.
I made one years ago from a small wash tub, a pulley and some handles, it worked really good. Get a wash tub, turn upside down , make a 5 inch hole in center, put a handle that is large enough to go from side to side of that hole and bolt!!! it onto the tub. flip the tub over and place a good canvas heavy cloth on the tub, tie the cloth onto the tub, flip back over. Find a rafter above your work table and put a pulley on the rafter, fix a hook , above the table on the wall, where to wrap the rope at. Now fill the tub up with sand, pull it up just high enough to clear, your flange and stand, and wrap the rope around the wall hook, so it does not fall. When your ready to flange, lower the tub onto the flange and stand. When done pull it up, and tie off again.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

How did you heat the sandbag? It's going to have to be electric, but obviously not hot enough to burn the canvas.

Brad
 

majormoore

Vendor
Messages
802
Brad, I do not heat them, I dry flange, meaning I iron the brim while on the flange with my cloth pulled over it, mist the hat and iron, place under the sand bagger and its over with about 30 min. later.

You can use a wire heater, but most fires in a hat shop were due to the sand bagger, you get busy and forget that thing is on and it gets real hot , burns the cloth, then the wood flange and the the shop.

I have a heater in my real sand bagger, never use it.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

How did you heat the sandbag? It's going to have to be electric, but obviously not hot enough to burn the canvas.

Brad
 

Charlie Huang

Practically Family
Messages
612
Location
Birmingham, UK
Does anyone have images of an actual potance frame and half blocks in the flesh? I only have an illustration...

35791_403896192062_688147062_5016882_4401200_n.jpg


BTW, a heads up as a conformateur and formillion is up for sale on eBay for £1000 at this point in time! Too bad I can't afford it!
 

Aureliano

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Messages
4,753
Location
Macondo.
My new old brim cutter aka rounding jack.

RoundingJack.jpg


Got this one a while back from one of our hatters. Flange stand.

IMG_3141.jpg
 
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Joshbru3

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Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
My new old brim cutter aka rounding jack.

RoundingJack.jpg

That's a super neat rounding jack, Ale! I've never seen one quite like it. I really like how compact the design is. I can imagine the design keeps the weight down and is probably easier on a hatter that has to use it all day.
 

Aureliano

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Messages
4,753
Location
Macondo.
Me either! first time I see one like this. I love that it uses regular razor blades, too. It's heavy and very well constructed. I can't quite figure out how to use it and how to set up the amounts to cut. I'm going to stop by Worth & Worth tomorrow and ask Orlando to give me a quick lesson :p
 

Joshbru3

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Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Me either! first time I see one like this. I love that it uses regular razor blades, too. It's heavy and very well constructed. I can't quite figure out how to use it and how to set up the amounts to cut. I'm going to stop by Worth & Worth tomorrow and ask Orlando to give me a quick lesson :p

I hope mine uses regular razor blades, because I would hate to have to seek out custom blades. I've seen these things in action, but have never actually used one. It should prove to be an interesting experience. I have a couple scrap felt bodies laying around, so those get used first. Then onto the western conversions.......;)
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
I use Exacto blades in mine Josh, which is a twin to yours. I also keep a honing stone near to keep the blade buffed.

Thanks so much for letting me know, Art!! I got the rounding jack a couple days ago and its in gorgeous condition. One question though, when trimming a brim, does the felt go under the brass plate on the bottom? I would assume its a guard to protect the blade from cutting through the surface that the felt body is on.
 

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