- Tartu, Estonia
@Canuck Panda Yup, custom measurements are not a problem. It's more or less MTM as far as I understood so far. Current plan is 49-42-45 chest-waist-hem (cm).
Ok. Where would you place the chest pocket? What size? What angle?@jeo
FW sunset would be a big no no from my perspective solely due to the location/placement of the chest pocket. Weird zipper placement too.
There is definitely a discussion to be had, especially when you’re straddling the line so closely between styles."These jackets that are an amalgamation of styles tend to look weird"
A few counter arguments / thoughts:
1 . There is sure a discussion to be had on what is a "quintessential" MC or aviator. Different periods from different makers had different ideas of which features are mandatory I guess.
PURELY personal opinion / taste:Where would you place the chest pocket? What size? What angle?
Haven't seen a Thedi yet that I would want myself, but I have huge respect for the maker. In a way for me his work seems as high end as it gets, works of art of the highest class.Thedi is spectacular at this.
It's not a chest pocket, it's a D pocket zipper (which is placed lower than a chest pocket).Placing the chest pocket so low and so close to the handwarmer pockets means anything you put in there will start bumping your hand when you put it into the handwarmer pocket. Assuming the chest pocket is not extremely shallow/tiny. And esthetically I think it is ideal if the chest pocket is parallel and close to the lapel when partially zipped.
No doubt man that’s what this place is for.@jeo
No prob, I didn't take it as discouragement or an argument, were just discussing stuff on this lovely forum
I'm thankful that you are engaging with me.
Not going to comment as I don’t own this jacket but I can’t imagine anything you put in the chest pocket being felt in the hand warmers.PURELY personal opinion / taste:
I would not slant the handwarmer pockets so heavily. I prefer them vertical or almost vertical. It makes more sense if we are talking about jackets that are around belt level length. Otherwise the whole "handwarmer" part becomes uncomfortable to use.
Placing the chest pocket so low and so close to the handwarmer pockets means anything you put in there will start bumping your hand when you put it into the handwarmer pocket. Assuming the chest pocket is not extremely shallow/tiny. And esthetically I think it is ideal if the chest pocket is parallel and close to the lapel when partially zipped. Perfect example of that is the second photo in my original post.
Now you’re talking about the cut. Different discussion.I also dislike the extreme front drop of the FW model.
I'd probably consider @Pandemic custom Field Leathers as the most perfect cross-zip I've seen so far (although personally I would add .5-1" in body length and choose a different leather).
Regarding the whole design thing - I'm not creating stuff from scratch here, that's just how the model that I picked is and I like how it looks.
I’m assuming the model you’re basing it on is the pacific. Not a monstrosity in my eyes. Definitely a moto jacket though.
@Aloysius Can’t speak to the cut. Perhaps it is a monstrosity. There are plenty of jackets out there where the design looks good but the cut is horrible. Some Japanese stuff comes to mind.
This! I always have them on both collar and lapels now - but hidden if I want them to be less moto - latest FL has these….and also epaulettes !I prefer invisible snaps on aviators lapels. Both functional and looks good. My aviator jackets don't have any snaps and they drive me nuts when they flop around. And that's why I don't wear them much.
This Ralphs-Pugh is the Ultimate x-zip for me! Only thing I would change is cording for the D pocket instead of only a stitched outline.It's not a chest pocket, it's a D pocket zipper (which is placed lower than a chest pocket).
Here's some vintage examples. The first two clearly show the difference between chest pocket and D pocket placement.
View attachment 498009
The Aero Bird of prey is a great aviator pattern. Subtle front drop, nicely curved lapels, not 'too busy'. Much more refined than the SB Pacific imo.
View attachment 498039
Yes I have heard this opinion before and in general I agree with it. In this case I'm making no alterations to the model pattern. Just to the materials and measurements.I dare say “total customization” is often a recipe for disaster, and at least on paper the list of features causes me to raise an eyebrow a bit.
It’s sometimes said that the difference between the cheaper and more expensive (true) bespoke tailors in London is that the latter will push back a bit more at customer suggestions. I think that‘s generally a good thing.
This one gave way after 70 years, so you'll probably be good until 2093.Can someone comment whether anyone ever had issues with the snaps and had to, for example, replacement?