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Pre 1940s Stetson Westerns

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
New Jersey
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
IMG_4789.HEIC.jpg

So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
IMG_4790.HEIC.jpg
IMG_4791.HEIC.jpg

LOT #5747


Screen Shot 2022-09-01 at 3.41.57 PM.png
IMG_4775.HEIC.jpg

IMG_4776.HEIC.jpg

IMG_4792.HEIC.jpg
IMG_4793.HEIC.jpg

Stitching job
IMG_4794.HEIC.jpg

Cleaning off the grime.

IMG_4802.jpg


I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!
 

Who?

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Vernon, CT
It looks like a hat that Elmer Keith would have worn, and did wear in at least one photo.

If it’s not a rude question, do you intend to wear it at all, or just preserve it, never to be worn again?
 
Last edited:
Messages
15,854
Location
Central California
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!


Great hat, Jesse! I like your efforts to restore it and trying to keep it original. I think the remaining patina adds to rather than detract from the hat.
 

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
New Jersey
Great hat, Jesse! I like your efforts to restore it and trying to keep it original. I think the remaining patina adds to rather than detract from the hat.
Thank you!! I tried my best. It’s wearable and I think it’s going to continue to hold up nicely. I agree with you about the patina. It wouldn’t be the same without it!
Good.

I think it would be sad if you didn’t wear it, but I didn’t want to say anything until I knew your intentions.

Hats are meant to be useful, and to be enjoyed by being worn. (I think)
I wear all of my hats for that very reason my friend. They should definitely be enjoyed through wear. Tucson is the perfect place to wear this big one!
 

Blare

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,016
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!
Beautiful. Well done sir
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,036
Location
Central Texas
Hello all, once again! This post is particularly special. I am here to share a brief story with you all, images, and would appreciate any additional info you can offer!

Recently, this beautiful 10 gallon Clear Nutria surfaced on the internet. It was in the hands of a hatter who desired to do some major alterations to it. Being the type of collector who emphasizes historic preservation and restoration, I reached out with an offer to take it in as-is. Luckily, things worked out and it was shipped to my new AZ residence. Upon initial inspection, there was a lot of dirt & grime. The sweatband was dried, barely hanging on by some original thread as well as some single stitches to semi-keep it in place. After removal of the sweatband, I deemed it worth saving. The band was cleaned and hydrated on a block for 2 days to retain shape. The outer band was removed from the felt body and a steam & brush cleaning was done all-around.
The reed of the sweatband was mostly compromised, for a majority of it had dried up and cracked. I decided I would utilize the small holes in the edge of the leather which attached the reed as my sewing entry & exit locations. I also aimed to utilize the original stitch holes provided to secure the original sweatband.
View attachment 448388
So, here it is. I think I did well at bringing it back to life. I've stitched in sweatbands before but I've never worked with something so delicate and rare. Feeling like a real hatter now.
Unfortunately it would not be good practice to naphtha bath this thing in my apt complex, so I am embracing the stains the brush could not tackle.

A stunning 7" crown and 4.5" brim. 3 ply cord with a bound edge brim.
Originally sold by George W Daiber of Cheyenne, WY.
View attachment 448389View attachment 448390
LOT #5747


View attachment 448394View attachment 448386
View attachment 448387
View attachment 448391View attachment 448392
Stitching job
View attachment 448393
Cleaning off the grime.

View attachment 448395

I believe I have seen this model in some of the early Stetson catalogue reproductions but I cannot nail down the name and I do not own those. Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.

Thanks everyone! Yee haw!

GBeautiful. Well done sir

What Joe said!
 
Messages
15,881
Can someone help me identify this model and date? I am assuming late 1910's to early 20's.
In another thread posters are making fun of the “butt crease”. This style of hat with crown height was popular in the desert SW into the 1930’s. The extra crown height provided air insulation against the desert sun, & thus cooler to wear. They were sometimes worn in the NW for the same insulating effect in the winter, but the NW tends to be windier.

I could only find catalog examples of wide ribbons but you should search the 1920’s - 1930’s catalogs posted.

936BD5AE-9E03-4115-8552-75E181BE307C.jpeg

BE4F763A-3A27-4E55-93F2-0112081345BE.jpeg

985A2089-8B38-4A0E-9A77-5048D0CDF1E4.jpeg

627BB2CC-1FF0-4A83-852B-159E4D886543.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Jesse John

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
New Jersey
In another thread posters are making fun of the “butt crease”. This style of hat with crown height was popular in the desert SW into the 1930’s. The extra crown height provided air insulation against the desert sun, & thus cooler to wear. They were sometimes worn in the NW for the same insulating effect in the winter, but the NW tends to be windier.

I could only find catalog examples of wide ribbons but you should search the 1920’s - 1930’s catalogs posted.

View attachment 448765
View attachment 448766
View attachment 448767
View attachment 448768
Hey HJ thanks for finding these for me as well and providing a bit more context as to where this style was popular and why. It makes total sense! I still have yet to see a sale sample with the 3 ply. The models in the first page are close though and the wide ribbons are very appealing. I see nothing wrong with a “butt” crease. To be honest, I tend to find some of the older creases more interesting than some of today’s! Thanks again
 

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