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Project: 5-Star Buco J-82

cbez

One Too Many
Messages
1,660
Location
CA
The original pocket placement is quite nice, and it hints at abdominal muscles and adds to the V lines.

Imo, this could and should have been spotted at the patterning phase, due to the relation of the lapels, upper chest pocket, D, and belt loops.
 
Messages
17,411
Location
Chicago
I know I always bag on 5 Star and as such my opinion is generally regarded as just being a hater but they do make the same mistakes, over and over again. It’s frustrating to watch and then the constant “close enough” support that only fuels the horse shoe/hand grenade build simply perpetuates. It’s the same argument over and over but I always find it bears repeating:
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Technonut

Practically Family
Messages
894
Location
West "By Gawd" Virginia
But honestly, I don't think the pocket placement is problematic. It's good enough. 5* won't ever make you a Buco so getting caught up in minute details such as this can only lead to frustration. They've done a decent job, generally.

Looking at the placement of the D-pocket in this ad from back-in-the-day, I must agree.... ;) Note the position of the D-pocket zipper pull in relation to the main zipper... VERY similar to 5-Star's, as well as the pocket hugging around the side.....

j-82.jpg
 

Technonut

Practically Family
Messages
894
Location
West "By Gawd" Virginia
. It’s the same argument over and over but I always find it bears repeating:


If that's in reference to the Vanson pictured, I would never purchase a leather jacket with a split back, or multi-piece sleeves. Personally, I think that particular jacket looks cheaply made, despite it's US origin.

I still currently own a Shinki Good Wear Rough Wear 27752 A-2, J.A. Dubow (Platon) Italian HH (similar to Vicenza) 27798 A-2, a couple of Aero's, and other "upper-tier" jackets, as well as some vintage. Since joining the lounge in 2006, I've had the pleasure of owning many that I've shown here, and am no stranger to quality.

As previously posted, I no longer find myself in the financial position of my earlier years, and try to live within my current means. Sure, I can scour the bay for vintage jackets which usually have their own particular issues, or I can have some fun with my limited means by going with a business like 5-Star, which at least allows me material / hardware choices, requested measurements, etc... This is not my first rodeo with them, and I was fully aware of their potential downsides before going-in..... ;)
 
Messages
16,712
If that's in reference to the Vanson pictured, I would never purchase a leather jacket with a split back, or multi-piece sleeves. Personally, I think that particular jacket looks cheaply made, despite it's US origin.

I'm sorry, but that is a very uneducated thing to say - One that I too have parroted way too many times before, for the same simple reason as you did just know, and that is being the victim of the utter cluelessness perpetuated by clueless bozos that have infested every bit of social media from where they spew their nonsense.

The presence of both these features that you claim would prevent you from buying the jacket in question, are in fact the most prominent indication of a vastly superior level of craftmanship, applied with full utilization only by Vanson. While copied by a handful of makers, more often than not just as a simply visual rather than practical feature, 5* is the last maker you can expect to any understanding of the purpose of a back seam & a multi-piece sleeves.

Look at it this way - Let's take Brioni, for insance. Why would a $6000 suit have a back seam? Could they be... Cost cutting?

In short, the Vanson @ton312 posted looks like a highest-grade, true motorcycle leather jacket, designed & tailored by a professional motorcycle apparel maker. Much more so than even the original Buco the 5* copied there because, while advertised as motorcycle apaprel, these old jackets are very primitive compared to what is being made today - Especially compared to the esteemed makers such as Vanson.

Vanson makes a race track suits. Do you honestly believe they would cheapen out on even the cheapest of their leather jackets? Behind even the most basic Vanson jacket, is a decades long history of literally keeping the rider safe on the road so frankly, even saying 5* in the same sentence with Vanson is a bit insulting.

Furthermore, back in the days when this Buco jacket was made, the company only had just began adapting a leather jacket for the dedicated motorcycle usage. They've just started understanding what works and what doesn't and while their progress is certainly a part of each and every one of their jackets, do you believe that any maker, least of all 5*, can hope to translate any of that into their copy based only on a couple of photos and measurements?

My point is, visual similarity is just scraping the surface of what a good leather garment is, which is why you are getting much less to no value from makers like 5* (and many more, even those advertised as tHe BeSt eVeR!) than buying a piece by a reputable company, even if it costs five times more.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,184
Location
Europe
I would never purchase a leather jacket with a split back, or multi-piece sleeves.
Almost all my jackets have sleeves made from several pieces and I have to say that I like the look better than sleeves made from two pieces (I have never seen a sleeve made from one piece in a leather jacket). But yes, taste is different.
I'm irritated by the statement ‘It's really ok for the price’ that's often made in this thread (which I'm sure I've also used here). It doesn't make a jacket better just because it cost little or nothing. Do I really want to wear it then? No, I don't.
There are really only two states: either I like something or I don't. The price doesn't matter.
 

Technonut

Practically Family
Messages
894
Location
West "By Gawd" Virginia
I'm sorry, but that is a very uneducated thing to say - One that I too have parroted way too many times before, for the same simple reason as you did just know, and that is being the victim of the utter cluelessness perpetuated by clueless bozos that have infested every bit of social media from where they spew their nonsense.

The presence of both these features that you claim would prevent you from buying the jacket in question, are in fact the most prominent indication of a vastly superior level of craftmanship, applied with full utilization only by Vanson. While copied by a handful of makers, more often than not just as a simply visual rather than practical feature, 5* is the last maker you can expect to any understanding of the purpose of a back seam & a multi-piece sleeves.

Look at it this way - Let's take Brioni, for insance. Why would a $6000 suit have a back seam? Could they be... Cost cutting?

In short, the Vanson @ton312 posted looks like a highest-grade, true motorcycle leather jacket, designed & tailored by a professional motorcycle apparel maker. Much more so than even the original Buco the 5* copied there because, while advertised as motorcycle apaprel, these old jackets are very primitive compared to what is being made today - Especially compared to the esteemed makers such as Vanson.

Vanson makes a race track suits. Do you honestly believe they would cheapen out on even the cheapest of their leather jackets? Behind even the most basic Vanson jacket, is a decades long history of literally keeping the rider safe on the road so frankly, even saying 5* in the same sentence with Vanson is a bit insulting.

Furthermore, back in the days when this Buco jacket was made, the company only had just began adapting a leather jacket for the dedicated motorcycle usage. They've just started understanding what works and what doesn't and while their progress is certainly a part of each and every one of their jackets, do you believe that any maker, least of all 5*, can hope to translate any of that into their copy based only on a couple of photos and measurements?

My point is, visual similarity is just scraping the surface of what a good leather garment is, which is why you are getting much less to no value from makers like 5* (and many more, even those advertised as tHe BeSt eVeR!) than buying a piece by a reputable company, even if it costs five times more.

Quite the dissertation, but still doesn't sway my opinion on the pictured Vanson, which is just that... My opinion. Has nothing to do with social media, which I have very little to do with (no FB account, etc)... I as an individual, just do not like split back leather jackets or multi-piece sleeves.... Never have, and that's going back to the early 80's when I was in my 20's. I think it cheapens the looks of a leather jacket, regardless of the maker. Again, entirely my opinion....
 
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Messages
17,411
Location
Chicago
I think that particular jacket looks cheaply made, despite it's US origin.
I understand you may not like the Vanson....but....how do you not get that feeling when you look at the leather used on your jacket from 5 Star? I have enough experience with them to know myself. The leather they use is so cheap it's almost criminal. It's bonded to felt, flimsy and gas chemical stuffed. The lowest form. My point is that limited budget doesnt mean you have to settle for low quality. And 5 Star is low quality.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,641
Location
Switzerland
I know I always bag on 5 Star and as such my opinion is generally regarded as just being a hater but they do make the same mistakes, over and over again. It’s frustrating to watch and then the constant “close enough” support that only fuels the horse shoe/hand grenade build simply perpetuates. It’s the same argument over and over but I always find it bears repeating:
View attachment 637647 View attachment 637648 View attachment 637649
The back of the Vanson leather jacket posted by @ton312 looked always too feminine with these waisted panels for me and reminds me more of a women's jacket. But these days, when every second person doesn't know whether they feel male or female, this Vanson model captures the zeitgeist.
 
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MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,184
Location
Europe
The back of the Vanson leather jacket posted by @ton312 looked always too feminine with these waisted panels for me and reminds me more of a women's jacket. But these days, when every second person doesn't know whether they feel male or female, this Vanson model captures the zeitgeist.

Okay, I plead guilty. Now that you mention it, it does look feminine :D


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58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,641
Location
Switzerland
@MrProper I know you are wearing a trim fitting CR Type Leather Jacket in your picture but as said, these kind of seams set off your middle/waist section too much especially to your \/-shaped body. As said the cut looks to feminine (as wearing a corset) to my eyes. Absolutely no offence, just my two cents ;)

CR Jackets

Hip/Waist accentuated seams >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>vs<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<vs straight seams

CR feminine vs maskulin.JPG
 
Messages
17,411
Location
Chicago
The back of the Vanson leather jacket posted by @ton312 looked always too feminine with these waisted panels for me and reminds me more of a women's jacket. But these days, when every second person doesn't know whether they feel male or female, this Vanson model captures the zeitgeist.
It actually fits quite the opposite.
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