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RARE! VINTAGE EASTERN AIRLINES UNIFORM JACKET. A lovely "breen" Hacking Blazer! c. 40

tweedydon

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RARE! VINTAGE (AND POSSIBLY UNWORN) EASTERN AIRLINES UNIFORM JACKET.



Brownish-Green ("Breen") Military-inspired Hacking Blazer with an Action Back! Made by Greif & Co. in Verona, Va., for Bill Haire Ltd.

c. 38, 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 31 1/4

Eastern Airlines was one of the "Big Four" American domestic airlines from the 1930s to the 1950s, dominating the New York-Florida market. Originally headed by WWI flying ace Eddie Rickenbacker it encountered financial difficulties after deregulation in the late 1970s and early 1980s, and was liquidated in 1991.

This jacket was made for Eastern Airlines just when it started to run into financial trouble. Although the Union tag inside dates this jacket between 1968 and 1976, it was made later than this--likely around 1981 (but not before 1985). We know this because this jacket is a lovely rare example of a jacket designed by Bill Haire, the iconic 1970s fashion designer. After a highly distinguished career designing evening dresses for Victoria Royal in New York, Haire decided in 1973 that he would follow the cultural shift towards less formal clothing, and started to design sportswear and casual jackets. In 1981 he formed his own company--which, given his reputation, was an instant success. But this was shortlived, and Bill Haire Ltd closed in 1985.

From his background in formal wear Bill Haire never lost his appreciation of well-tailored clothing, and so chose highly traditional tailors to execute his designs. This jacket was tailored by Greif & Co of Verona, Va.--who, like many tailors, used up their stock of older Union labels until they were gone before ordering more. (Which is why this jacket has a label from around 5 years before it was made.)

Given his professional background in upper-class design Haire was both familiar with and a fan of traditional British country clothing and its military antecedents. Following this tradition this is cut as a modified hacking jacket, with a three button front, darts, and slanted hacking pockets. It also has a functional action back for ease of movement. It departs from tradition by being unvented, although it is fully lined in a green lining that complements its dark brownish-green colour. (This was officially termed "breen" by Eastern and Haire.) It has three button cuffs--and all of the original solid metal pewter-coloured buttons have the Eastern Airlines logo. The jacket also has two small rosettes on the top of the breast pocket. This appear merely decorative now, but were likely the anchor points for a name badge.

It was Union Made in the USA.

The quality of this lovely worsted wool jacket speaks volumes of the level of attention that airlines *used* to give to their presentation to the public. And the condition of this jacket is excellent! Indeed, it appears to be unworn, with its hacking pockets still basted shut.

Asking just $45, or offer, for this lovely piece of wearable aviation history that's a simply wonderful blazer in its own right!





 

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