Show us their suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Matt Deckard, Jul 19, 2006.

  1. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,470
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    The guy from the youtube channel 'gentlemen's gazette'' has a new sports jacket with a lapel like that. I wonder who made it.
     
    Feraud likes this.
  2. Mathematicus

    Mathematicus A-List Customer

    Messages:
    378
    Location:
    Coventry, UK
    I'd be curious too. He's got a 30s suit with similar lapels, if I remember correctly.

    I find that shape very appealing (probably due to its symmetry) but it needs to respect very strict parameters to look good. The gorge line and the collar edge need to be sloped at the same angle with respect to the horizontal line and the gorge line needs to be quite downwards-sloping with respect to the modern standard. To complicate things, the length of the two notch's edges has to be somewhat proportionally small in relationship with the lapel overall width. Very confusing for a tailor to understand that unless he knows the look; and very frustrating for the connoisseurs as they could tell the right shape from a mile!

    Anyway, I've seen that coats from American traditional brands tend to have similar lapel shapes; at least in the majority of cases the gorge line is sloped in the right way, while the collar edge is not always spot on. For example, I've been eyeing this Oxxford's sports jacket on the Bay for a while:
    [​IMG]
    The lapel has the right flavour, doesn't it? Alas I've been wastefully waiting for the seller to clarify about extra material in sleeves and now I've missed it.
     
    Mean Eyed Matt and Metatron like this.
  3. Metatron

    Metatron One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,470
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Yes the smallness of the notch allows the lapel to look heavier and furthermore it has close to a 90 degree angle which together have a sort of 'opening up' of wings, or cathedral doors or something effect which is quite grand. Comparatively modern lapels have an acute angle notch which is more inconspicuous.

    I've never had anything by Oxxford before but I gather they have some nice old world qualities about them.
     
    Mathematicus likes this.
  4. kwitie

    kwitie New in Town

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    UK
    Tho
    Those are from "The Rake" aren't they? That's a magazine full of well dressed types. Sadly I can't afford them :-(
     
    HadleyH1 likes this.
  5. Michael A

    Michael A I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,446
    1936 German
    [​IMG]
    I'm liking that short jacket.

    Michael
     
    Mean Eyed Matt likes this.
  6. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    380
    Location:
    Germany
    Wow, what an outfit!
    Actually very typical for early/mid 30s Germany, i think.
    I even know someone with a very similar original jacket with matching plus fours - early 30s, if I remember correctly.
    4 pockets and also the pocket flaps - for me the look is a little too military.
    But overall a very cool sports outfit. Nice plus fours!
    And I totally agree with you: I love the length of the sports coat.
    These short pointed lapels: simply amazing!
    Only the hat... not my thing.
     
    Michael A likes this.
  7. Michael A

    Michael A I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,446
    It doesn't strike me as military looking, though the pleated double breast pockets certainly show up on military gear. How about this one from 1934?

    [​IMG]
    The Google translation of the description
    Waistline double-faced jacket made of dark fabric with woven patterns and with stitched seams to diamonds. The jacket has a narrow, differently colored slip all around, two diagonally inserted slit pockets, a wide lapels, a strong edge tap and two button rows with decorative buttons. Including a bright plain-colored shirt and light trousers with pleats.

    Looks very Chanel to me.

    Michael
     
    Mean Eyed Matt likes this.

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