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Michael A

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
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6,287
Mean Eyed Matt

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
895
Location
Germany
Nice and interesting suit, Michael!
But with these Bavarian hunting/loden clothes it is really difficult
because the cuts are in use for a very long time.
Also the logo "Bavaria-Loden" was used at least until the 90s...
My first gut feeling said 60s - but really just a feeling!
And I am really not an expert - there are others...

Maybe you can take pictures of the lining, the buttons
and the buckles of the trousers and jacket?
Does the pants have a zipper?
I think the small details are the most helpful here...
 
Michael A

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,287
Thanks for the answer Matt. Here are a few pics.
Waistband clip working side
IMG_7935 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Waistband clip back side
IMG_7936 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Trousers zipper
IMG_7939 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Trousers buckles
IMG_7940 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_7941 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Jacket in seam pocket zippers
IMG_7946 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_7947 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
No idea about this little pocket in pocket
IMG_7944 crop by Michael A2012, on Flickr
I might have said it was just a seam given way, but it's lined both sides with cotton drill
Jacket button
IMG_7942 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
Lining
IMG_7949 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_7948 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
IMG_7950 by Michael A2012, on Flickr
seems to be a fairly heavy cotton
Size tag
IMG_7951 by Michael A2012, on Flickr

Most of the Bavaria Loden I found online was attributed, without supporting evidence, to the 70s-80s period. I couldn't find any mention of Herrmann Jagdsport.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Mean Eyed Matt

Mean Eyed Matt

Practically Family
Messages
895
Location
Germany
I'm really not a professional, but if you're lucky,
Fastuni will get in touch with you (or you with him?)
Could you post it in the corresponding threat as well:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-vintage-german-suits.62278/
I think there was also a discussion about the dating of zippers,
but I did not find it. But Fastuni knows I'm sure...

The hooks + eyelets give a first clue: "Gutos"
https://gutos.de/en/index.html
"...have been closely connected for more than 65 years."
This leads us to the mid 50s or younger

The company "Zipp" already existssince 1930,
"Opti" also since the mid 30s (1936?).
One can classify them by the shape, I think, as said.
May be you find it here? I did not...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/zippers.5809/

From the feeling (!) I stay with the 60s (maybe late 50s),
but the zipper pros can certainly help (if the zippers are still original...)
 
Michael A

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
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6,287
Thanks Matt. If Fastuni doesn't happen to drop into this thread in the next week I'll move the questions over to the German suit thread. My own general feeling tends toward the 60s as well, possibly a decade newer that that. As you say, with hunting clothing there aren't a lot of dating clues in the design as you can still buy nearly identical designs made today.

I will say that I'm immensely happy with my purchase of this set. It's been my go to cold weather bicycling outfit and I expect it will remain so until it gets so cold that I have to go with even heavier gear. It is very comfortable to wear and all the pockets are handy when I got out without pannier bags. I am definitely a fan of loden cloth.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Peacoat

Peacoat

Bartender
Bartender
Messages
5,808
Location
South of Nashville
Mean Eyed Matt said:
I'm really not a professional, but if you're lucky,
Fastuni will get in touch with you (or you with him?)
Could you post it in the corresponding threat as well:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-us-vintage-german-suits.62278/
I think there was also a discussion about the dating of zippers,
but I did not find it. But Fastuni knows I'm sure...
Click to expand...

Dinerman did a Guide to dating zippers. It is found here:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/zipper-dating-a-fedora-lounge-guide.73890/

Didn't see a Zipp zipper, however.
 
Fastuni

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,278
Location
Germany
Michael A said:
Thanks Matt. If Fastuni doesn't happen to drop into this thread in the next week I'll move the questions over to the German suit thread. My own general feeling tends toward the 60s as well, possibly a decade newer that that.
Click to expand...

1960's is correct.

The labels, cut of the jacket and the "Kniebundhosen" (non flaring breeches) with Zip-fly are also very indicative for these years.

The Gutos buckle and rectangular Zipper became widespread in the 1950's.
I am sure if you loosen the cloth-strap from the Gutos Buckle you will find the "DBP" (German Federal Patent) embossed, introduced in 1949.
 
Michael A

Michael A

I'll Lock Up
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6,287
Thanks Fastuni. I really like that buckle system on the breeches. I've tried to turn up a US dealer, but no luck so far.

As I mentioned I am getting a lot of wear out of this set for intermediate/cold weather bicycling. Seems like it was designed for that as much as for hunting. The breeches have double cloth and seemingly some padding through the crotch area. Perfect on the bike.

Thanks for the information,
Michael
 
Loz Dawes

Loz Dawes

Familiar Face
Messages
83
Location
U.K
Sexton OS Bespoke.jpg

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke D/B suit, in 70% WOOL, 30% MOHAIR – 330gms – 12oz, from Stanley Mills in Bradford....
 
upsett1_spaghett1

upsett1_spaghett1

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Portland, OR
VelahrnDaoine

VelahrnDaoine

New in Town
Messages
11
Are darts in vintage suits like that one from the thread:

edited.jpg


sewn shut or just ironed?

Do you have any pictures of that detail zoomed?
 
J

Jinglebobs

New in Town
Messages
6
Jinglebobs said:
View attachment 367876 View attachment 367879 View attachment 367879 View attachment 367879 View attachment 367888
Click to expand...
Ok folks, I’d very much like your opinion regarding the new suit from Chester Cordite. I am new here, and am posting from my phone, which isn’t cooperating. The suit in question, is the brown chalk stripe suit above. I simply do not quite have the trained eye that many of you do, when it comes to differentiating between early 30s style men’s suits, when compared to those of the late 30s, and early 40s. I have tried to examine as many dated fashion plates as possible, and have read articles mentioning the 30s soft shoulder, lapel width, button placement, waistline, etc etc. I am mainly interested in American suits from 1930-1934. Originals are out of the question, due to my sleeve length, and inseam. I do own a couple SJC King Cole suits, a few from Thomas Farthing, and this latest three piece from Chester Cordite. The Cordite suit (pictured) was claimed to be appropriate for my era of interest, but the waistline/button placement looks more 40s to me. What would you recommend? Is there a way to have a tailor turn this into an eary 30s jacket?
Forgive my newbie ignorance, and many thanks in advance! Also, this is right out of the box, with no hemming, alterations, etc. The jacket is really a bit too snug through the chest, but the vest and trousers were fine. Forgive the mediocre photos.
 
P

PeterB

One of the Regulars
Messages
178
Location
Abu Dhabi
The Cordite suits are a bit of a jumble in terms of the eras that they are trying to capture. The lapels.are really too wide even for 40s and you might consider having them narrowed. The waistcoat is a little long for 30s or 40s but seems well cut. From what I can see of the pants, they are on the narrow side. SJC's King Cole pants are much closer to the original style than what Cordite makes. With all that said, if you are pleased with the suit you should enjoy your purchase. It is going to be really difficult to convert it into a more 30s looking suit. I suggest that you find a tailor who can copy one of your King Cole suits because they really do look early 30s.
 
Mathematicus

Mathematicus

A-List Customer
Messages
380
Location
Coventry, UK
Jinglebobs said:
Ok folks, I’d very much like your opinion regarding the new suit from Chester Cordite. I am new here, and am posting from my phone, which isn’t cooperating. The suit in question, is the brown chalk stripe suit above. I simply do not quite have the trained eye that many of you do, when it comes to differentiating between early 30s style men’s suits, when compared to those of the late 30s, and early 40s. I have tried to examine as many dated fashion plates as possible, and have read articles mentioning the 30s soft shoulder, lapel width, button placement, waistline, etc etc. I am mainly interested in American suits from 1930-1934. Originals are out of the question, due to my sleeve length, and inseam. I do own a couple SJC King Cole suits, a few from Thomas Farthing, and this latest three piece from Chester Cordite. The Cordite suit (pictured) was claimed to be appropriate for my era of interest, but the waistline/button placement looks more 40s to me. What would you recommend? Is there a way to have a tailor turn this into an eary 30s jacket?
Forgive my newbie ignorance, and many thanks in advance! Also, this is right out of the box, with no hemming, alterations, etc. The jacket is really a bit too snug through the chest, but the vest and trousers were fine. Forgive the mediocre photos.
Click to expand...
I'd say the suit in itself looks good on you but as it has been already pointed out, some details do not fit with the era you have in mind.

- jacket is too long for the style (but the length isn't technically incorrect for you especially as you are a taller gentleman).
- shoulders and sleevehead wadding look too structured for the early 30s period (but I'm not saying they look bad, quite the contrary!)
- waistcoat is definitely long - alongside with (probably) trousers' rise being too short
- Button stance looks low, but it is perfectly in line with this jacket length
- Lapels are out of proportion, not only for the 30s but for any era except the 70s.
- I don't think trousers look narrow. There were different trousers styles in the early 30s and not all were extremely baggy (let alone with pleats)

I'd worry much more about the problems of fit and comfort you mention.

You say the jacket is snug on the chest, but it doesn't show from the front. I suspect it is pulling on the back due to low-ish armholes and/or insufficient width across your shoulder blades. If this is the case, there's unfortunately little you can do other than blame Chester Cordite for not addressing this important part of the fit. In principle, the jacket could be altered to give you more fullness across the back but it depends on how much you need.

Style improvements might be having the lapels tamed down a bit. Depending on the make of the lapel hole, you might have to trim the lapel down a lot if you want to touch it at all and keep the peak lapel (the new lapel edge would have to end at the left side of the current hole). Another option is converting to notch lapel, which would give you more flexibility.

All in all, I'd say if you are not happy with the fit and you don't like the style, return it. Altering the lapel and the back will cost you quite a bit and the results might be well worth the money, but only if you like the suit!
 
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