Edward
Bartender
- Messages
- 26,267
- Location
- London, UK
Every leather jacket should be made with a two way zip
It works well for some, though I've never felt the need on any jacket that stops shy of the top of my Pelvis. I think the only jacket I had a double zip on (that I can remember.... pretty sure it had one...) was a Barbour International, about fifteen odd years back. That ort of length it was handy.
The other option is to do as here:
...and have the zip stop an inch or two above the hem to allow for this issue. Obviously puts a limit on how long overall the jacket can be without looking silly....
The Aero Hudson is a slightly longer style that takes this second approach:
The problem is almost every makers motorcycle jacket is too long.
Also, in this vicinity a jacket that you can’t wear zipped up isn’t very practical.
It's become a lot more common since the late 70s. In the UK & Ireland it started, best as I can make out, in and around the late 70s, with a particular influence being the Lewis Supermonza. Longer cut jackets to cover the small of the back on a crouched-forward racing-style bike, with a more aggressive riding stance than a Bonneville or a Thruxton-style with the low down, clip handlebars. Those same longer jackets start to be more of a pest if you ride something with a more sit-up position (the average Harley likely being the most polar opposite).
Aesthetically the problem comes in when retro looks become popular again, and then you have various companies trying to make a vintage-looking jacket, but keeping it too long without sympathetically altering the design, so it all looks just off. (Have you ever seen a Perfecto knock-off with a 29" back? Truly an abomination.) I think designs that are made too long for whatever reason (all too often, these days, so they don't leave a large exposure of shirt at the bottom, given so many people are so resistant to wearing trousers with a waistband that sits on the actual waist, rather than our to six inches south of it) are never going to work well, irrespective of zipper arrangement...
Beyond a riding jacket, though, if I wanted to sit down in a slightly longer jacket a lot, a double zip or a button front is the answer. I my wool overcoats I've been living in this Winter, I just leave the bottom button or two undone if I'm headed for the tube, the easier to access my travelcard in my trouser pocket and to sit down, if desired (or, indeed, an option at all in rush hour).


