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Store appreciation: just received some tasty chocolate (Shinki) from Franklin & Poe!

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
Genuinely blown away that I am sat here writing about my beautifully made, perfect fitting Simmons Bilt tailgunner in this incredible chocolate brown Shinki horsehide barely two weeks after PLACING my order, and I think the fine people at Franklin & Poe had a lot to do with that.

A quick search of the Fedora Lounge didn't yield many references to this shop, so I thought I'd shout them out.

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It's a shop in Philadelphia, PA, and though I've never been to the shop i can say every time I spoke with them over the phone was a positive experience. I always felt appreciation as first a potential, and now an actual customer. With respect to this jacket, and having refined my preferences for particular styles and patterns over the past year or so, I had for some time been looking for a straight zip, three pocket jacket in a certain shade of brown leather. A highwayman style jacket basically. My closet includes several styles in black leather that I've been able to find OTR, but for whatever reason a nice example in a brown leather had been proving elusive. Even after thorough investigation aided by the Lounge. It seemed that going the custom route would be my best option, and though I've admired beautiful jackets posted by members such as @torfjord and @Motocann from Simmons Bilt I always hesitate when buying a jacket that I cannot try on.

In comes Franklin & Poe. I recently noticed the "citywide" jacket on the website, which even mentions the option to place a custom order on the item listing. This seemed like the safest bet to try out a custom Simmons Bilt. Working through a trustworthy shop with easy returns/refunds gave me more confidence for a successful outcome, so I quickly placed an order for a size 40 which would end up serving as my fit jacket. In this hide and with the small upcharge for the two way main zipper that Debs had quoted me, a direct order placed with Simmons Bilt would already be over $1200, and that's without any consideration for shipping or potential additional charges. The $1300 for the "citywide" jacket seemed like an acceptable premium to me if it helped yield a positive result. I will add that after that initial purchase there was no additional charge. Not for the return of the fit jacket, any of the alterations for my individual order including the two way zipper which Debs had quoted as an upcharge, or for shipping from Simmons Bilt to me. That was nice, and a smooth part of the experience. Furthermore, having tried on a size 40 in person gave me the peace of mind I was looking for.

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As you can see the sleeve length was definitely too much. A few other minor changes like reducing the body length and shoulder width I think just helped it to fit more precisely. Also, I wanted the chest pocket to sit a little lower. Making these minor adjustments happened during several phone calls with Dane at Franklin & Poe. He patiently listened while genuinely seeming happy for the discussion. I know were talking about basic customer service, but I get the sense that the people that work in the shop are passionate about these types of clothing. Also, just being able to pick up the phone and always reach someone definitely is nice. Generally my requested measurements of pit to pit 22.5", shoulders between 18.5" and 19", body length of 24.5" sleeve length of 24.5" and hem width of 20" are reasonably close to standard for the pattern so there wasn't some huge transformation. But this is what Franklin & Poe requested in my order, and this is what I got!

TLDR: Franklin & Poe served as the "middle man" for my custom Simmons Bilt tailgunner order. Working with them was a smooth process with regular communication which gave me peace of mind. Franklin & Poe is overall a good shop that I would certainly recommend anyone to check out. Given the shop's regular business with Simmons Bilt orders placed through them might get priority which could explain how I received my jacket barely two weeks after the order was placed. Also, Franklin & Poe has standard jackets in stock that one can use to check out the fit of Simmons Bilt patterns and to use as a way to determine sizing adjustments if needed for one's order.

-Cheers!
 

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
About the jacket itself.

From first impressions the chocolate brown Shinki is outstanding. Having purchased black teacore Shinki Schott jackets I can say I am just as pleased with what feels like the same standard of quality. This is "struck through" leather, or dyed fully through as indicated by the same dark brown on both the flesh and grain sides. The grain is more pronounced with this jacket. Could very well just be due to the hides selected for my jacket and the natural variation of leather. But if it was because this leather has less of a finish than the black pigment coating Shinki uses for some hides then that could also explain it. The leather has a substantial weight and feel to it, but also feels very pliable. That plus the pattern make for one very comfortable and easy moving jacket right out of the box.

I have no affiliation with Franklin & Poe, but am one happy customer. For the shop and jacket definitely two thumbs up from me!
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Pandemic

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,356
Location
Witless Protection
that’s awesome. They are a really good shop. I just emailed them to see if they would broker an Oakland jacket. No way I’d order directly from SB again, but I’d definitely consider going this route for an aviator cross-zip.

And they even published a size chart instead of the bulls*t ‘send us your measurements and we will send you the jacket we think will fit you’!!!
 

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
that’s awesome. They are a really good shop. I just emailed them to see if they would broker an Oakland jacket. No way I’d order directly from SB again, but I’d definitely consider going this route for an aviator cross-zip.

And they even published a size chart instead of the bulls*t ‘send us your measurements and we will send you the jacket we think will fit you’!!!
I also asked Franklin & Poe about ordering other Simmons Bilt jackets than what they offer currently through their shop. They said that is an option though they might not have the same knowledge on other patterns. Wish you luck with that order man if you end up going for it. I am sure they'll do their best to get the right fit.

Was wondering if you could clarify the size chart piece you mentioned. Just about all their styles are missing any clear info on the Simmons Bilt website for measurements, and also for the tailgunner if I went by the measurements that are listed than I would have gone with a size 38 instead of essentially what I was told was their size 40. So did Simmons Bilt send you a size chart or you got info through Franklin & Poe? Doesn't seem to be there under the Oakland jacket listing on the Simmons Bilt website?

Thanks!
 

torfjord

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,268
Location
Sweden
Looks good on you! Good decision to shorten it compared to the stock jacket and the leather looks lovely.
I've never owned a Simmons Bilt jacket, maybe you ment to tag someone else?
 

Pandemic

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,356
Location
Witless Protection
I also asked Franklin & Poe about ordering other Simmons Bilt jackets than what they offer currently through their shop. They said that is an option though they might not have the same knowledge on other patterns. Wish you luck with that order man if you end up going for it. I am sure they'll do their best to get the right fit.

Was wondering if you could clarify the size chart piece you mentioned. Just about all their styles are missing any clear info on the Simmons Bilt website for measurements, and also for the tailgunner if I went by the measurements that are listed than I would have gone with a size 38 instead of essentially what I was told was their size 40. So did Simmons Bilt send you a size chart or you got info through Franklin & Poe? Doesn't seem to be there under the Oakland jacket listing on the Simmons Bilt website?

Thanks!

SB are notorious for not sharing their sizing details. You send them your measurements and they send you a stock jacket they think will fit you- often with comically bad results. Some people speculate the secrecy has its origins in the criminal case around stealing Aero patterns.

Hence I was pleasantly surprised to see a size chart for the SB jackets on the F&P website - at least for the ones they are selling.
 
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Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
Looks good on you! Good decision to shorten it compared to the stock jacket and the leather looks lovely.
I've never owned a Simmons Bilt jacket, maybe you ment to tag someone else?
Shoot my mistake! Thought I remembered you wearing a Simmons Bilt collaboration in the "what jacket are you wearing thread" but I guess not.

Yea around a 24" jacket length seems to be the sweet spot for me, having bought everything else OTR it wasn't until I got my Vanson model B, which is around this length, that I realized the shorter length doesn't just help the jacket to look proportional top versus bottom half, but also helps make the jacket trimmer and better fit overall. The leather is some of my favorite yet, thanks!

-cheers
 

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
SB are notorious for not sharing their sizing details. You send them your measurements and they send you a stock jacket they think will fit you- often with comically bad results. Some people speculate the secrecy has its origins in the criminal case around stealing Aero patterns.

Hence I was pleasantly surprised to see a size chart for the SB jackets on the F&P website - at least for the ones they are selling.

Got it, thanks for clarifying!

Yea I believe F&P measures all of the jackets they have in shop to make that chart which is really the best practice. They're not just re-posting what a brand states which is good because always there can be variation. That being said, when I got my size 40 "fit jacket" in I did all the measurements myself as well. The chest was spot on, but I got slightly different measurements than what is posted in the size chart. I'd very closely followed the measurement instructions on their website, but unsurprising as each person measures differently. Funnily when I returned the jacket to F&P I asked that they measure it themselves to compare to what I got and those measurements were different for the most part from not just what I had measured but what was also posted in the size chart.

Ended up just sticking with what I had found myself to make minor alterations. The main thing was tightening the shoulder width just a little, shortening the jacket, and bringing the sleeves up so that they actually fit me.

Having never ordered a jacket remotely (not walking into the shop directly, which I've only done at Vanson) I was definitely over analyzing the measurements part. I was worried about getting a jacket I wasn't satisfied with and not really having any option for return etc. Sounds like that has been the case for others which is too bad. I can imagine I'd feel supreme disappointment, and a bit foolish for having wasted my time and money.

Very well could be the story I told myself, but when the measurement for a size 40 on the Simmons Bilt website was showing one thing, my measurements another, and then the measurements of the jacket I returned to F&P supposedly yet another, I thought to myself that Simmons Bilt would try to nail the measurements I requested through a shop they do a lot of business with differently than just some random guy placing an order across the great wide random internet. That's what I told myself at least.

Though things went well in the end I think I'll be happy with my result and not go through it all again. At least not for a while ha!
 

bnisland

New in Town
Messages
6
Looks lovely and I second Franklin & Poe as a great shop overall.

I’ve ordered some iron heart pieces from them and gone through a return/exchange. It was comically fast and the communication was excellent.
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
I’m a bit confused by the OP post. Are the first two pictures of your SB jacket that you have ordered and received, or are they of the stock jacket from F&P? I ask because the sleeves still appear a little long.

Not commenting on the fit re sleeve length, as sleeve length is a personal preference. Except for sleeve length, the fit pics look on point! Thanks for the review.
 

Unrefined Vision

One of the Regulars
Messages
102
I’m a bit confused by the OP post. Are the first two pictures of your SB jacket that you have ordered and received, or are they of the stock jacket from F&P? I ask because the sleeves still appear a little long.

Not commenting on the fit re sleeve length, as sleeve length is a personal preference. Except for sleeve length, the fit pics look on point! Thanks for the review.
Definitely could have more clearly indicated the pictures of my custom jacket versus those of the fit jacket. Any photos of me in black pants are the fit jacket. The rest are my actual jacket. That's true sleeve length is a bit subjective, where any of us prefer them to fall. My experience with every jacket up to this point has been with OTR jackets, and the jackets I've experienced for the most part have had sleeve lengths that I would see as longer than my preference but not uncomfortably so. Otherwise I'd have sacrificed the fit through the chest were I to have sized down with those jackets. With that experience as my baseline I played it a little conservative when submitting my sleeve length alterations, but I can say I am pleased with the adjustment. Might be hard to tell in the photos but I found the jacket from Franklin & Poe resting around my knuckles whereas my jacket sits comfortably above them. And that's brand new out of the box. I'm thinking over time with wear and creasing in the sleeves it will get even better!
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,670
I won’t state the obvious about OP’s jacket lol.

Hence I was pleasantly surprised to see a size chart for the SB jackets on the F&P website - at least for the ones they are selling.

Bear in mind that F&P’s measurements are absurdly bad (I’m both an in store and online customer of theirs, although I won’t be anymore now that I see they’ve become a SB dealer.)

For example, they list Schott Perfectos as being 5” smaller in the chest than the jacket actually is. Ditto some Sugar Canes I got had completely wrong measurements.
 

Pandemic

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,356
Location
Witless Protection
I bought a pair of ecru Sugar Cain jeans in their Black Friday sale and now I’m kicking myself for not also getting some Freenote Modestos.

What are the odds of them doing another sale in the next month or two? I haven’t been tracking their sales too closely, but that don’t seem to be too frequent
 

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