Super thick CXL cafe racer - who does the best pattern?

[NamoAmituofo]

This is just another crazy idea from my crazy head.

Last year a member ordered a 6oz CXL jacket from JL that weighs 10lb.

Not aiming to break that record - but thinking of ordering a cafe racer in the same thick CXL.

I haven’t decided if this should be rough out - I think a 6oz rough out would be a lot of fun!

Most importantly who makes the best pattern for a CR that makes wearing such a heavy jacket still comfortable?

 

[Guppy]

Probably the top candidate would be Vanson.

And there's the notable extinct Natal/Natel/Walter Dyer/Kerr/etc etc. pattern which is often found made with super heavy hides.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Here check this one out...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/us-made-cafe-racer-jacket-review.110115/#post-2982258

Let me just share this - due to the collar design, it was never a comfortable jacket to wear. The band-type collar always got in the way, with lighter leather it would not have been an issue. While the leather US-Made company used was ultra thick but semi-soft, it was manageable but never comfortable. it came in just under 9 lbs. It was too much, and I wound up selling it along as it just never seemed right.

Ideal Cafe-racers are usually around 5-6 lbs.

The cross-zip style jackets work a little better as the quite heavy units, since the collar and lapels tuck out of the way most of the time. If you really want an ultra-heavy leather jacket, look in that direction...

 

[Aloysius]

I haven’t decided if this should be rough out - I think a 6oz rough out would be a lot of fun!

The only place I can think of going for this is Johnson, which happens to be also be the only place that could pull it off.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Or just order up a 5-OZ HH version of this from Stuart and never look back.
https://lostworldsinc.com/Motorcycle_Jacket_Horsehide_Leather_Cafe_Racer.htm

 

[Grayland]

Or just order up a 5-OZ HH version of this from Stuart and never look back.
https://lostworldsinc.com/Motorcycle_Jacket_Horsehide_Leather_Cafe_Racer.htm

That's right. No biscotti, chocolate chip cookies baby!

 

[AerGuitar]

Here check this one out...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/us-made-cafe-racer-jacket-review.110115/#post-2982258

Let me just share this - due to the collar design, it was never a comfortable jacket to wear. The band-type collar always got in the way, with lighter leather it would not have been an issue. While the leather US-Made company used was ultra thick but semi-soft, it was manageable but never comfortable. it came in just under 9 lbs. It was too much, and I wound up selling it along as it just never seemed right.

Ideal Cafe-racers are usually around 5-6 lbs.

The cross-zip style jackets work a little better as the quite heavy units, since the collar and lapels tuck out of the way most of the time. If you really want an ultra-heavy leather jacket, look in that direction...

I made myself a cafe racer with 4+ oz CXL and yes, the stand collar is definitely an issue with the heavier/stiffer hides. It’s doable, but my 4+oz cross zip is waay more comfortable. 6oz CXL…. Wow, my machines would say NO WAY. I’ve often wondered what JL and Stuart are using to put those beasts together..

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Or just order up a 5-OZ HH version of this from Stuart and never look back.
https://lostworldsinc.com/Motorcycle_Jacket_Horsehide_Leather_Cafe_Racer.htm

I've got a 5oz trucker from LW - thick and beefy. Definitely become a lot more pliable but still got a ways to go.
Highly doubt you would want to go heavier than this - breaking this in will keep you very occupied for a while.
Pretty sure I've partially chrome-tanned my fingertips getting the buttons through when new.

Would not advise going for something that heavy if you're for a CR like j100.

I made myself a cafe racer with 4+ oz CXL and yes, the stand collar is definitely an issue with the heavier/stiffer hides. It’s doable, but my 4+oz cross zip is waay more comfortable. 6oz CXL…. Wow, my machines would say NO WAY. I’ve often wondered what JL and Stuart are using to put those beasts together..

Not knowledgeable on this, but @photo2u seems to have a good idea what LW may use

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

I made myself a cafe racer with 4+ oz CXL and yes, the stand collar is definitely an issue with the heavier/stiffer hides. It’s doable, but my 4+oz cross zip is waay more comfortable. 6oz CXL…. Wow, my machines would say NO WAY. I’ve often wondered what JL and Stuart are using to put those beasts together..

Found this in a photo dump of the workshop

 

[NamoAmituofo]

The first jacket I bought from this forum is this https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...cafe-racer-leather-jacket-sz-m-40-ish.112184/

It must be from 5oz cow hide as it weighs just under 7lb - the collar is super thick but the cut is great and I felt very comfortable in it. The hide was very soft though like a thick goat.

That’s why I was thinking perhaps JL can pull this off. I’m also thinking rough out unlined.

I reckon cross zip is too much for such a thick leather as the collar fold would be a major challenge and it may give unwanted creases in the collar fold where it touches the sides of the neck if that makes sense.

Has anyone got a rough out or suede CR? What are your loves and hates?

 

[Alfredodelavega]

I have never understood masochists who absolutely seek discomfort with ever heavier and stiffer leathers to the point of constantly suffering while wearing their jacket.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Hi guys, I’m close to place an order with JL - it will be a soft hide of 4.5-5oz which I believe can still work well for a CR.

I want to check with you guys regarding zipper option - I received this image from JL for Riri vs YKK no.10 zippers - what would you pick and why?

 

[MrProper]

Riri. i think this is the rolls royce among the zips and it looks better too.

 

[TartuWolf]

RiRi no question. Why would you pick a generic YKK if you have the choice to go for a RiRi?

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Thanks guys! JL can’t source Crown. I do get the Riri reputation being solid - it’s just it’s so chunky it reminds me of a tank’s chains!

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Why go for a thick leather but hesitate on a chunky zip?
I’d say go for the RiRi

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Thanks guys! It will be a heavy leather roughout and unlined, with shoulder and elbow patches and side adjusters for a bigger belt buckle.

Haven’t quite pulled the trigger yet as I just bought a LW Easy Ryder from a member here and it’s not here yet - I had second thoughts already as it’s a much lighter weight 3oz HH and possibly it’s between 40 and 42 (even tagged 40) so may not be the snug 40 fit I want.

I bought this LW jacket in a heart beat as they are so hard to come by in my size. So assume it’s not a perfect fit - I’ll place the order for the JL beast of a jacket - it won’t be the heaviest of all jackets for sure but should be one of the heaviest CR!

 

[NamoAmituofo]

So… given my quest for a LW CR ended up with a jacket pattern too roomy for me especially in the forearms and wrists - I’ve gone ahead with a JL order.

I really wanted a roughout in heavy 4.5oz goat but a heavy rain shower changed my mind.

Gone with 5oz CXL overdye grain side out, and unlined. With a Crown zipper I bought separately, side adjusters and extra layer of kidney panel plus elbow patches. Was going to add shoulder patches too but it’s a challenge to work with action back seams.

The main reasons is I want a trim fitting jacket for warmer months that I can wear to semi formal occasions like work on dress down Fridays, or to school (otherwise I’d be a cross zip all the time guy). Side adjusters to allow me wear that monster Samurai Jeans belt which I really love underneath and zip over it if cold/windy.

Not cheap but Damon has been very patient with numerous change of hearts from me.

I’ve heard great things about CXLSH overdye and let’s see if this softens to a degree to make this thick jacket comfortable too.

Watch this space.

 

[Ohmufasaa]

How's the jacket coming alone?

 

[NamoAmituofo]

With the warm weather going in UK, I dropped Damon an email and was delighted to hear this jacket has gone into production!

The delay was caused by waiting to receive ***metal Riri M8 zippers for the sleeves (yes you read right M8 for sleeves!!) to match the Crown #10 spring loaded main zipper

Shouldn’t be too long now!