The Bowler or Derby Hat

Discussion in 'Hats' started by carter, Oct 3, 2008.

  1. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    @Mark Brody , thanks for the added photos. You are so doing the right thing: finding out what style is best for you, the hat, and the one that you want.

    The folks on the FL are full of good advice and very non-judgemental. Looks like you've found a nice first Bowler, especially in that colour.

    Looking forward to seeing how you decide to re-create it.
     
  2. DaveProc

    DaveProc Call Me a Cab

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    Bob, I believe that Napolean is black with blue tint or a dark blue that is almost black.
     
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  3. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    A very nice way to enter the Bowler club, Mark. Browns and greys are much less common than blacks. Yours looks to be a good modern version reminiscent of my Resistol (also a modern hat, relatively speaking).
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    Without digging all of mine out of boxes, I'd guess about half of my 20s-40s bowlers have bows with frayed rear edges, so it must have been a "thing" in that period. With some exceptions, bowlers have 1 inch ribbons as a standard but I, too, am considering a wider ribbon on my next custom. As Steve @Steve1857 mentioned, steam and pull the side brims up tends to give bowlers a more "western" look.
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    Here is the bow on my custom grey from Northwest Hats. I wanted something a little different.
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    And an old beater Stetson I had a few years ago...
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    Again, welcome to the club, Mark, we need more bowler brothers!
    Crofut & Knapp
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    Kaller bowler (from Austria, as I recall).
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    Ps: Wear your bowler proudly. I get more compliments on my bowlers than all the other hats I own put together!
    Borsalino Fu Lazzaro from Italy.
    20210317_081303.jpg


     
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  4. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    A big thanks to Joe @Blare for putting me on to this one. A "rare" Wormser Bowler. I love everything about the quality of this one, from the hand of the felt, to the pleated liner, the inside bow, and the soft nature of the leather of the sweat band. The shape is more English Bowler like than American Derby, imo.

    It's so comfortable to wear, too. IMG_20210327_142305.jpg IMG_20210327_142315.jpg IMG_20210327_175810.jpg IMG_20210329_212226.jpg IMG_20210328_015714.jpg
     
  5. Blare

    Blare I'll Lock Up

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    Loving it more and more Steve
     
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  6. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Thanks. Me too, Joe.

     
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  7. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I'm jealous, Steve.

     
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  8. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Thanks Randy, but remember, you have the fu Lazzaro :)

     
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  9. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I believe we are both winners!

     
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  10. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Indeed we are :)

     
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  11. Great Western Derby. From Hell on Wheels, & previously posted in the TV Hats thread. Maybe in this thread too; I don't recall.

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  12. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I've seen something similar called a coach derby.

     
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  13. I always thought this was more the style of the Coachman's hat.

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  14. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I think you are correct on that hat. I can't find Dave's recent ad picture, but I was sure one like the main character there was referred to as a coach derby. Here is one of Dave's ad pictures that describes a Youman's derby - straight sides with softer shoulders and a slightly rounded top.

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  15. I think the Hell on Wheels hats were made by Knudsen & the territorial governors Derby was based on Knudsen's Bat Masterson. Maybe Jeff @bowlerman will weigh in. He has a Bat Masterson & also a D bar J Western Derby or two, I think.
     
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  16. Hobo Riding the Rails

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  17. steur

    steur

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    That is a beautiful bowler, Steve. Nice catch.
     
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  18. bowlerman

    bowlerman I'll Lock Up

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    I distinctly remember that scene and that hat from Hell on Wheels. A real beauty. In my experience the closest nomenclature would be a Cambridge bowler, which is blocked tall, with straight sides and a slightly flatter top over some still gently rounded shoulders. Think Odd Job, maybe?

    I'll see if I can find an old photo I saved of an old ad once, and I know D Bar J Hats has offered what they call a Cambridge derby in the past. Theirs is a little shorter and has a wider brim, but basically still fits the bill.

    I've come to really prefer western derbies of various blocks and dimensions, with pencil curls. My Bat Masterson from Knudsen Hats goes more than IMG_8156.jpeg a little bit in this direction, but the HoW hat here seems to have more front and back taper in the crown, and a less pronounced pencil roll. It is a really stunning hat that they make, but looks almost nothing like the famous Bat Masterson hat from the old photos.

    I bet Mike Moore at Buckaroo Hatters would be able to recreate exactly that, if you wanted him to. My Buckaroo Hatters derby is outstanding. It is a little lower crowned and more gently pencil rolled than most, which is what I asked for, and I love it, but he has a huge repertoire.

    David Torres at Texas Hatters makes some of the best western hats in the business, and although they are not inexpensive, the turnaround time is quick and customer service is great, in my experience. I am positive he could recreate this one as well.

    Knudsen Bat Masterson pictured. Mine is western weight wool, and the crown has settled a bit over time. I'd definitely buy it again in a fur felt.
     
  19. Thanks for that, Jeff. The current D bar J Western Derby with a 5" rounded crown needs more, I think. However I do like the brim.

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  20. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Excellent western bowlers, gentlemen! Mike Miller at Northwest does a great D'Orsay curl. I've been interested in a Cambridge bowler for a while, so maybe...

    20200817_154238.jpg

     

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