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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Rmccamey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,992
Location
Central Texas
Most excellent, Steve!

Another lucky Facebook Market Place find.

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Battersby, one of my favourite Manchester hat makers.

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Originally sold in Denmark's 5th largest town just before or just after WWII, I'd say.

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Almost perfect in every way apart from the popped sweatband stitching at the front.

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The best news though is, it fits

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Messages
16,377
Location
Maryland
Another lucky Facebook Market Place find.

View attachment 411996View attachment 411997

Battersby, one of my favourite Manchester hat makers.

View attachment 411998View attachment 411999

Originally sold in Denmark's 5th largest town just before or just after WWII, I'd say.

View attachment 412001

Almost perfect in every way apart from the popped sweatband stitching at the front.

View attachment 412002

The best news though is, it fits

View attachment 412003
Steve, Great find and wears well! Congrats!
 
Messages
16,377
Location
Maryland
Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation, measures 58.5 cm, possibly 1930s. The Black Fur Felt has a nice Smooth Finish. It has a lower profile which is pleasing. Appears that the Sweatband was stitched back in at a later time. I have one other Stiff Felt from Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation. I wasn't able to find any information on Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation production capabilities. I tend to think they sourced the entire Stiff Felt. I was told by the Seller that this Stiff Felt belonged to her great uncle who was the owner of the first bandage company in Germany, F. & C. Achenbach Frankfurt am Main (founded 1882) but the company didn't survive WWII.

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Natural Light

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Aahzz

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
Northern Kentucky
OK, so I discovered something I didn't know I had. I was at the movies the other night, and was kind of aimlessly fiddling with my derby, and I felt an elastic cord. Turns out my derby has a wind trolley :). I was even able to use it today when out with a bit heavier wind than I'd normally like. Kinda silly but cool.
 

Rmccamey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,992
Location
Central Texas
OK, so I discovered something I didn't know I had. I was at the movies the other night, and was kind of aimlessly fiddling with my derby, and I felt an elastic cord. Turns out my derby has a wind trolley :). I was even able to use it today when out with a bit heavier wind than I'd normally like. Kinda silly but cool.

Pictures required or it didn't happen :)
 
Messages
15,436
Location
Nederland
ascal&Cie bowler hat. Size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 12cm. Runs somewhat small for its size, but a well made hat.
Pascal&Cie was located in the Rue du moulin in Bruxelles and that's all I can find about the maker. The inside of the sweatband has a "marque deposée" stamped on it with the letters Th. C.C.V.
It was sold by Edw. Jorgensen in Odense, Denmark. Steve @Steve1857, who found this hat, couldn't find more information about the retailer either, so it is a bit of a mystery.

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Edward

Bartender
Messages
23,130
Location
London, UK
OK, so I discovered something I didn't know I had. I was at the movies the other night, and was kind of aimlessly fiddling with my derby, and I felt an elastic cord. Turns out my derby has a wind trolley :). I was even able to use it today when out with a bit heavier wind than I'd normally like. Kinda silly but cool.

I wish wind trolleys were more common than they are. It's a nice detail on a hat, of course, but the utility is great. I remember feeling a bit daft using one for the first time - until, that is, the hat blew off my head and I realised the visible string was a lot less undignified than having to run up the road after a hat...
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,856
Location
Denmark
ascal&Cie bowler hat. Size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 12cm. Runs somewhat small for its size, but a well made hat.
Pascal&Cie was located in the Rue du moulin in Bruxelles and that's all I can find about the maker. The inside of the sweatband has a "marque deposée" stamped on it with the letters Th. C.C.V.
It was sold by Edw. Jorgensen in Odense, Denmark. Steve @Steve1857, who found this hat, couldn't find more information about the retailer either, so it is a bit of a mystery.

pascal_01.jpg

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Here's the latest I have, Stefan.

Edward Jørgensen hats/boxes often turn up on Danish Facebook Market Place.

Screenshot_20220425-221905_Facebook.jpg

More often than not with the ubiquitous Latest of London lid.

Screenshot_20220425-221915_Facebook.jpg

I found this photo of the shop:

Screenshot_20220419-202837_Facebook.jpg

Edward Jørgensen is the gentleman with the beard and flat cap. The others are members of his family.

He was trained as a felt maker, so probably a hat maker, too.
 

Blare

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,650
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Cavanagh Bowler - Derby
Tobacco Brown - Fawn Felt
5 1/4 crown
1 inch reddish brown grosgrain ribbon
Approx 2 inch brim with d’Orsay curl
2 inch to front 2 inch to curl on sides 2 1/2 to edge

@BobHufford pointed out this brown Cavanagh bowler to me some weeks back. The asking price at the time was more than I was wanting to go. A bit of patience paid off when after a few weeks it hadn’t sold, I sent the seller a modest offer. After a small counter offer the hat was on its way. @steur half jokingly, raised the concern hoping it was in fact brown and not just bad photography. I can happily confirm for Stefan it is indeed brown in color… more so a lighter tobacco brown… or being that the last two letters on the torn price tag are wn.. maybe Fawn? Speaking of the torn price tag it ends in 5.00… I’m guessing maybe original price of $15 on what I’d estimate to be a mid to later 50s Cavanagh that was sold at Meyer’s of Lexington, KY. Sadly the golden size 7 size tag that was shown unattached in the sellers photos did not appear to have made the journey with the hat. This hat makes a fine addition to my derby stable. Thanks again Bob for the tip off.

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,856
Location
Denmark
I just couldn't resist this one.

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Despite it being battered, bruised, and two sizes at least too small, I just had to rescue it.

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Nice liner and logo. Originally sold in a town in the southern part of the Danish mainland.

The person who originally owned it must have had quite a small head as these three strips of newspaper were placed under the sweat.

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They were from the bottom part of the newspaper so no name or date. However, this piece helped me place it.

20220504_163422.jpg

The newspaper was Jydske Tidende and the article announces that on the 5th of December, they will be serialising Erich Maria Remarque's new novel, All Quiet on the Western Front.

This serialisation began in Germany in September of 1928 to mark the 10th anniversary of the end of WWI. Several other nations translated and serialised the novel later in the same year.

So, a 1920s Bowler, probably more or less from the year 1928.

I love hat detective work :)
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,856
Location
Denmark
ascal&Cie bowler hat. Size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 12cm. Runs somewhat small for its size, but a well made hat.
Pascal&Cie was located in the Rue du moulin in Bruxelles and that's all I can find about the maker. The inside of the sweatband has a "marque deposée" stamped on it with the letters Th. C.C.V.
It was sold by Edw. Jorgensen in Odense, Denmark. Steve @Steve1857, who found this hat, couldn't find more information about the retailer either, so it is a bit of a mystery.

pascal_01.jpg

pascal_02.jpg

pascal_03.jpg

pascal_04.jpg

pascal_05.jpg

pascal_06.jpg

pascal_07.jpg

pascal_08.jpg

pascal_09.jpg

pascal_10.jpg
Stefan, if it's somewhat small for its size and your head, I recommend you try the oven heat treatment along with a hat jack to tweak it.

It seems to have worked for the Scott & Co Bowler I recently posted.
 
Messages
15,267
Location
Central California
View attachment 421102

Cavanagh Bowler - Derby
Tobacco Brown - Fawn Felt
5 1/4 crown
1 inch reddish brown grosgrain ribbon
Approx 2 inch brim with d’Orsay curl
2 inch to front 2 inch to curl on sides 2 1/2 to edge

@BobHufford pointed out this brown Cavanagh bowler to me some weeks back. The asking price at the time was more than I was wanting to go. A bit of patience paid off when after a few weeks it hadn’t sold, I sent the seller a modest offer. After a small counter offer the hat was on its way. @steur half jokingly, raised the concern hoping it was in fact brown and not just bad photography. I can happily confirm for Stefan it is indeed brown in color… more so a lighter tobacco brown… or being that the last two letters on the torn price tag are wn.. maybe Fawn? Speaking of the torn price tag it ends in 5.00… I’m guessing maybe original price of $15 on what I’d estimate to be a mid to later 50s Cavanagh that was sold at Meyer’s of Lexington, KY. Sadly the golden size 7 size tag that was shown unattached in the sellers photos did not appear to have made the journey with the hat. This hat makes a fine addition to my derby stable. Thanks again Bob for the tip off.

View attachment 421103View attachment 421104View attachment 421105View attachment 421106View attachment 421107View attachment 421108View attachment 421109View attachment 421110View attachment 421111


I don’t know why, but this hat looks more like an open crown homburg than most derbies do. Maybe it’s just me?

I remember Alan calling these 1950s-‘60s derbies revival era hats. They seem to have a slightly different shape than those made during the first part of the 20th century and earlier. Yours has great colors.
 

Blare

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,650
I don’t know why, but this hat looks more like an open crown homburg than most derbies do. Maybe it’s just me?

I remember Alan calling these 1950s-‘60s derbies revival era hats. They seem to have a slightly different shape than those made during the first part of the 20th century and earlier. Yours has great colors.
Probably a bit… though this one does have a little more of that older style of d’orsay curl where the front of the brim is a bit flatter than the sides. I have another brown bowler from about this era that is.. if I remember a UK hat.. maybe Tress. That one has that more homburg like uniform brim curl.
 
Messages
15,436
Location
Nederland
I just couldn't resist this one.

View attachment 423957View attachment 423958

Despite it being battered, bruised, and two sizes at least too small, I just had to rescue it.

View attachment 423959View attachment 423960View attachment 423961

Nice liner and logo. Originally sold in a town in the southern part of the Danish mainland.

The person who originally owned it must have had quite a small head as these three strips of newspaper were placed under the sweat.

View attachment 423963

They were from the bottom part of the newspaper so no name or date. However, this piece helped me place it.

View attachment 423964

The newspaper was Jydske Tidende and the article announces that on the 5th of December, they will be serialising Erich Maria Remarque's new novel, All Quiet on the Western Front.

This serialisation began in Germany in September of 1928 to mark the 10th anniversary of the end of WWI. Several other nations translated and serialised the novel later in the same year.

So, a 1920s Bowler, probably more or less from the year 1928.

I love hat detective work :)
That has been through a rich life it seems, Steve. Nice shape on it though. Always nice if a hat presents a few leads to its origins. Good sleuthing!

Stefan, if it's somewhat small for its size and your head, I recommend you try the oven heat treatment along with a hat jack to tweak it.

It seems to have worked for the Scott & Co Bowler I recently posted.
I have a few hats that are candidates for this treatment to make them fit my headshape better. At what temperature do you bake them?:)
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,856
Location
Denmark
That has been through a rich life it seems, Steve. Nice shape on it though.


I have a few hats that are candidates for this treatment to make them fit my headshape better. At what temperature do you bake them?:)
I'd recommend 100° C to start with then increase from there depending on success rate. I left my hat jack in between bakes and twisted accordingly.

Who'd have thought we'd be having this conversation :)
 

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