The long and winding road (another aero thread)

[schitzo]

looking again closely it definitely IS NOT too short at the front. So my 2 cents is keep it and cancel the highwayman cos this'll be hard to beat + even if the highwayman did turn out as good that would just leave you with a headache i.e 2 awesome jackets that are very similar

 

[trapp]

Thanks everyone for your generous comments and opinions. It's appreciated!

I like this jacket a lot. It fits much better in the shoulders and chest than I expected when I pulled the trigger. Since it's my first Aero, Amanda was putting me in a size 40 with small turnings to bring the body out to around a 41. She said she would do this for all the more generous waist length models (HWM, 50s HB, Pioneer). So I was rolling the dice a little on this 42.

I do think there is a bit more room in the jacket than these pics imply. When I raise my arms there is lots of extra leather at the sides. The measurements of this jacket, such as a 19.5" shoulder, make me wonder if its on the smaller end of a true 42. Either way, I really like the fit from the front and from the sides, and it feels comfortable and easy to wear. It’s still trying to mold to my shape but it feels better with each hour I wear it.

These are changes I would make in terms of fit to any custom order I did:
-1 inch added to length, no more
-.5” or 1” added to sleeve

I think the current jacket length and sleeve length are probably right there in terms of how Aero imagined this style should fit, but my preference is a bit longer in both areas. These sleeves look and feel good when my hands are down at my sides. They ride up a bit when bend my arms, pulling back an inch or more from the wrist. Not bad, but I think I’d rather they stay on my wrist when I’m drinking a pint, driving, or lifting up my kid. I like the feeling of having my entire arms clad in leather no matter what I’m doing!

Coffee, this is the first I've handled Aero's fqhh and the hide is indeed beautiful. Very rich, with undertones of auburn and rust. The footwear are the wolverine 1000 mile boots in brown. I am a bit of a boot freak and these are among my favorites for everyday wear. Comfortable, handsome, unpretentious, versatile, and hardy.

Schitzo, the next jacket I get will have a cooler lining. This HB is lined with Alpalca. I haven’t found the Alpalca to be either too warm or the slightest bit itchy, as others have. It’s been moderate weather here though and I wouldn’t wear this in the heat of summer. Now that I have this HB, I may opt for the Pioneer rather than the HWM. I love the design of the Pioneer and the buttoned cuffs. In any case, I’ll be looking for a jacket with a little bit more length. I would make lots of other minor mods in any custom order I do; this jacket has no inner pockets and that's not really practical.

Does anyone know if an Alpalca lining takes up more volume than say the cotton drill? I’m wondering if a cooler lining would have any effect on a jacket’s fit.

I would also consider reducing the collar size, just a touch, on any custom jacket. Has anyone any experience with this?

 

[ButteMT61]

The jacket looks pretty good on you. It seems to have a tad extra around the waist, but nothing bad. As far s Alpaca, it's warmer, and bulkier than drill, but not unmanageable. It's a nice lining, but only get it if you'll be in the cold. It limits the number of days you can wear it during the year. As for monkeying with the collar size, I'd have to say one thing I've learned here is to not futz with the thing too much. You really don't know more than the designers and makers (you as in US). You'll likely get yourself into the somewhat common chase of perfection, while doing stupid things. I think many here can vouch for that. If you don't like this jacket, that's fine. Just don't try to outsmart yourself on the next one...

 

[Seb Lucas]

Trapp - the half-belt isn't bad but I'd prefer it an inch or two longer just because for me the short jacket look always seems like they ran out of material. I know there are fans of "period short look" but I'm not into replicating period, only borrowing the best bits. Also people were much shorter and thinner back in the day and certain shorter, slimmer styles may well look fine if you're five feet 7 and 155 pounds...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Trapp

I like your ideas and Amanda's suggestions on the next jacket...especially with the drill lining. I think a slightly smaller collar might work. However any collar looks better to me once shaped by hand using a good soaking of water and then allowed to dry. Too tiny of a traditional type collar might be a little more difficult to shape in the hvy FQHH would be my only concern.
I'd add an inch to both the body length and arms...but that's how I like them. That way with years of wear..wrinkling..and possibly natural shrinkage it wouldn't become a problem.
Anyhow..good luck..and you have a good starting point.
HD

 

[trapp]

Thanks, all.

Butte, your advice about keeping it simple is well-taken. As for the Alpaca, that's just part of the package of the used HB I picked up. Any jacket i order will have cotton drill for the reasons you stated (and other reasons such as longevity). My question is whether a jacket lined in cotton drill will fit a little looser compared to the same jacket lined w/Alpalca (that is, how much extra space does the warmer alpalco take up relative to the cotton drill).

Seb, I'm with you. Which is why I want to go a bit longer.

HD, I'll wet and shape the collar this afternoon. I'm guessing Amanda is on the money in suggesting the size 41 (size 40 with small turnings). My only concern at this point is whether the shoulders on the 40 would be too snug. I thought the 42 pictured above would be loose on the shoulders but it turns out to be a pretty good shoulder fit. Also, having a comfortable fit is a high priority. I don't like to suffer for fashion. If I find myself taking off a jacket and thinking, "sharp jacket, but it's nice to be free of that thing" then I just won't wear the jacket.

I'll probably send these pics and the measurements of this jacket to Amanda and see if she still suggests the 41.

Incidentally, I understand that apparently small mods can sometimes have unforseeable ramifications on both fit and aesthetic balance. Any modification I consider for the collar size would 1) be modest, and 2) be run by Amanda first

 

[Fanch]

Tight shoulders make a jacket that is uncomfortable for me to wear for any length of time. IMO another inch added to both sleeves and body length would be optimal.

 

[Boyo]

Schitzo, I found the thread I remarked upon in Worfs thread. Any noteworthy updates on the break-in?

 

[schitzo]

Schitzo, I found the thread I remarked upon in Worfs thread. Any noteworthy updates on the break-in?

well it is now fully 'broken'. Dunno if any of this is especially noteworthy but I can, from memory, give you an approximation of what it took. I was wearing it for 3-4 hours 5 nights a week which I kept up for around 6 weeks. Probably it had softened up nicely after just the first few. Upon reading about it here, I fully submerged the collar in warm tap water, just for a few seconds, and then wore it till it was dry taking care to stretch my neck out in all directions. After one night of doing that the collar was completely comfortable

 

[regius]

Schitzo, nice 50s halfbelt, I am currently looking into getting one, but I am a bit confused as to how long the torso is suppose to be. There is a black harris tweed lined 50s HB on ebay right now, and it measures 21 on the back, must be a custom order. 21 for a guy's jacket is way too short (remember, the Schott 618 is still 24). So, it seems the natural length of the 50s should be fine,but judging from your picture, it looks actually very long, the halfbelt falls below your actual wasitline. I have a 30s HB, and the length is perfect. Can anyone tell me how the 50s HB supposed to fit?

 

[schitzo]

Schitzo, nice 50s halfbelt, I am currently looking into getting one, but I am a bit confused as to how long the torso is suppose to be. There is a black harris tweed lined 50s HB on ebay right now, and it measures 21 on the back, must be a custom order. 21 for a guy's jacket is way too short (remember, the Schott 618 is still 24). So, it seems the natural length of the 50s should be fine,but judging from your picture, it looks actually very long, the halfbelt falls below your actual wasitline. I have a 30s HB, and the length is perfect. Can anyone tell me how the 50s HB supposed to fit?

Hi Regius, having read a lot on this subject the consensus here seems to be that back in the day trousers were worn higher than now, so jackets were shorter. For the 50s HB to fit as well in a modern context it therefore needs to be a little bit longer than then to work with today's trousers which are worn lower. Fyi, mine on this thread is probably an inch longer than it needs to be. At just under 6,2 I would say a back length of 26.5 would be perfect - and the majority of the 6,2 club on these pages seem to agree with that

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Hi Regius, having read a lot on this subject the consensus here seems to be that back in the day trousers were worn higher than now, so jackets were shorter. For the 50s HB to fit as well in a modern context it therefore needs to be a little bit longer than then to work with today's trousers which are worn lower. Fyi, mine on this thread is probably an inch longer than it needs to be. At just under 6,2 I would say a back length of 26.5 would be perfect - and the majority of the 6,2 club on these pages seem to agree with that

I wholeheartedly agree. Spending this kind of money...I want a jacket that will fit comfortably over my beltline no matter what pants I might wear. Otherwise..versatile. Why not when it is easily 'made to measure'. At 6'2"..(for me)26 1/2" allows for just that...whether '30s or '50s HalfBelt style. A 30s HB is just slimmer patterned for a trimmer build with an angled bottom hem. Stock sizes (off the rack) are supposedly for those of average build or (under 6'..?) in body length..as well as sleeve length. I prefer a custom leather jacket that easily remains a more fitted appearance even/especially after broken-in..molded to my certain body shape..and gaining the charactor of years of wear. Creeping up above my belt or wrists has never been appealing to me at all.
HD