The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[herringbonekid]

very interesting suit, a little tight on the owner in the jacket.
the interior is very lavish, especially as they seem to have mounted a grey wool on the back of the plaid (assuming that's not a fabric that has a 'reverse' side ?)

 

[Chowderhouse]

very interesting suit, a little tight on the owner in the jacket.
the interior is very lavish, especially as they seem to have mounted a grey wool on the back of the plaid (assuming that's not a fabric that has a 'reverse' side ?)

Yes, the suit is tight on him. It's about a size 36 or 37 Short. Douglas Fairbanks was a small guy. He didn't look too small next to Mary Pickford because SHE was practically a midget.

And yes, that's a grey wool. To be precise, a heathery grey wool hopsack.

 

[herringbonekid]

'mounting' for anyone who hasn't heard the term: you baste two different fabrics back to back then work with them as if they're one layer.

 

[Mario]

'mounting' for anyone who hasn't heard the term: you baste two different fabrics back to back then work with them as if they're one layer.

Thanks for the explanation. Much appreciated.

 

[Two Types]

It's difficult to tell from the photos, but it seems that in the front view of the pockets the inside of the bellows (if that's the right term) shows the grey wool. (Although in the rear view it seems to show plaid)

I rather like seeing the grey, just to give a little contrast.

 

[Chowderhouse]

It's difficult to tell from the photos, but it seems that in the front view of the pockets the inside of the bellows (if that's the right term) shows the grey wool. (Although in the rear view it seems to show plaid)

I rather like seeing the grey, just to give a little contrast.

Good eye, Two Types. The inside of the bellows shows grey brushed cotton twill.

 

[Tomasso]

It was purchased in early 1920 by Hollywood actor Douglas Fairbanks Sr.

You wouldn't think he'd wear OTR.

 

[Chowderhouse]

You wouldn't think he'd wear OTR.

He may have purchased it in a rush, just before leaving for his two-continent winter honeymoon with Mary P. It was a hectic time.

 

[Nick D]

I'm thinking of making another suit, and I need to adjust the pattern I used when I made the blue one. In addition to re-drafting the collar and moving the roll line back a bit, there's too much fullness in the chest and shoulders.

I didn't dart the canvas at the shoulder (mea culpa), but that doesn't explain all of it. The underarm dart doesn't extend all the way to the armhole (it's a hacking jacket pattern, so extra ease was left intentionally under the armhole), and I could take the dart up to the seam, which I think would help.

The biggest issue I see is that the shoulders are the right width, I think. I would move the armscye in a half inch on front and back, but that would narrow the shoulders and I don't think I can afford that. I've compared this jacket against my vintage ones, and the shoulders are actually narrower than on some of them. I could make the armscyes deeper (not lower), but I'm not sure how to then alter the top of the sleeve. Any advice on where to take out this fullness?

Edit: Actually, I may be able to move the armscye in about 3/8" to narrow the shoulders, which will take some of that fullness out, but I don't think it will be enough.

 

[Fastuni]

IMHO the fabric at the shoulder area appears to need more tension.
This would be solved by more "shape ironing" (what's the correct English term for this? In German "Dressur".)... when cutting the fabric save a few cm at the shoulders and stretch/iron them to the required amount. Works of course better with solid color fabrics.

Best Regards and Congratulations on this very well made suit!

 

[Qirrel]

(what's the correct English term for this? In German "Dressur".)

Commonly called ironwork, shaping or blocking. But if I remember correctly, Nick mentioned that the fabric the suit is made of doesn't respond well to ironwork. Especially if you are going to do that heavy stretching which is needed in most old systems, the fabric needs to be of a vintage caliber.

What pattern did you use, Nick? I would suggest you go one size down (from 44 to 42), make up a muslin without collar and sleeves, and see how it fits. I wouldn't worry about the shoulder width until you have gotten rid of the excess fabric/fullness in the chest and at the back. It is much easier to extend the shoulders on a pattern than to remove all that fullness. You would have to be a pretty skilled cutter to know where to begin, and what to do to avoid disturbing the balance, relation to the back of the jacket, etc.

 

[Nick D]

Cheers, gents.

Fastuni, this fabric was indeed almost impossible to shrink or stretch. The next go will be better fabric.

Qirrel, here's the pattern:

I checked my chest measurement, and it's smaller than I thought. The last time I checked it had been 40", but now it's 37.5", so you're right about needing to go down a size for a start (40 to 38). I also need to take my trouser pattern down from a 38" to 34" (I've lost a stone since September). You're quite right about the balance, I was concerned about screwing that up. I guess I'll have to give grading the pattern down a go. I also have a Weldons waistcoat pattern of the same date and size which I'll grade down.

 

[Qirrel]

Ah, so it it is not a multi size pattern. Well, I have no experience with grading, but there are some grading books on archive.org, and one posted on cutterandtailor.com (The American Pattern Grader), if you don't already know how to do it. Or you could join the club and start making your own patterns. I pretty quickly grew tired of trying to find vintage patterns in my size.

 

[Nick D]

Ah, so it it is not a multi size pattern. Well, I have no experience with grading, but there are some grading books on archive.org, and one posted on cutterandtailor.com (The American Pattern Grader), if you don't already know how to do it. Or you could join the club and start making your own patterns. I pretty quickly grew tired of trying to find vintage patterns in my size.

Thanks for the title, I haven't seen that one. I know how to grade but don't have much experience actually doing it, nor how to do a two-piece sleeve.

I think I've gotten a good handle on the actual sewing, the next area I really (really) need to work on is fit, as with here, and more importantly working up my own patterns using a draft. The blue was only my third men's jacket, a couple more attempts and hopefully I'll have something up to scratch.

 

[cordwangler]

join the club and start making your own patterns. I pretty quickly grew tired of trying to find vintage patterns in my size.

It's worth getting a few lessons (I needed them, but others might be happy learning themselves) and making your own patterns. It's a lot of fun and very satisfying.

 

[Nick D]

Qirrel, I've gone through the grading book and it's perfect for grading down the front and back of the pattern. But he only gives grading sleeves from two patterns, not one! I'll either have to divine how to do it from what he does say or figure it out from another draft.

 

[Qirrel]

The later version shows how to do it from only one pattern:

 

[Qirrel]

And then to be sure, check that the sleeve fits the armhole, like this:

And make sure that the finished circumference of the sleeve seam is not more than about 10% larger than the finished circumference of the armhole of the coat.

 

[Vampyre Master]

not exactly vintage more 70's goes 30's
I have belted and pleated the back, now altering large lapels and have come up with this double lapel look (Prada will copy this next year)

VM

 

[Honey Doll]

Gentlemen

What are you doing for your sleeve heads? Commercial shoulder pads? Sleeve head wadding? I've had a pleated belt back well underway for ages....feeling inspired to finish it out!

I completely sympathize with the snickers at the wife who sews putting together a tailored piece....menswear has been a complete revelation! canvas and melton and pad-stitch-oh-my!!

Thanks fellas!

As a side note....I'm so happy to see the Evadress menswear patterns being used by so many! Many of the original patterns came from my personal collection which Xandra at Evadress tolled to put out for public sale. We were emailing this week that she will be putting out a new peaked lapel jacket from my collection shortly!!

Honey Doll
a/k/a Lady Eve
http://www.etsy.com/shop/LadyEveMillinery?ref=si_shop