Thoughts on new jacket: Langlitz vs Himel vs Aero

[ton312]

I thought Himel made to measure... Or at least is certainly capable.

I think you can go either way. The stock jackets at Mildblend are certainly OTR offerings.

 

[ton312]

I think by "sausage" he means very little taper.
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I would agree with that. That's precisely what kept me from ordering Aero's version, the aeromarine. The 25 extra lbs the patch pockets add to your gut become exacerbated even more with CXL. Pattern just isn't very exciting tbh until you get to Thedi, who seems to have mastered and modernized the proportions.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I would have to vote Bootlegger, in Steerhide. Lovely jacket & leather. I would suggest zip-zleeves over the buttoned sleeves. I own Tony's brown BL and love the zipped-sleeves. Make wearing a backpack much easier (getting it on and off). And while not as muscular, I fit the demographic you mentioned.

X2 to the trial fit. You could ask Cary for a fit jacket, or request a fit time. It's too bad there's not a brick/morter store anymore, it was indeed amazing walking into that place.

 

[Rosecitymike]

Plan is to schedule a fit time with Carrie next time I’m in Seattle. Will look at some Thedi also!

The Frobisher I have on order is MTM so expect the fit to be spot on.

 

[handymike]

The Frobisher is a winner for most body types IMHO. A great design!

 

[ton312]

^Agreed. That's the Himel I'd want most. Terrific HB.

 

[El Marro]

I am going to cast my vote for the Bootlegger as well. It is very nice jacket, and also quite different from the other three leather jackets you already own.
I am a big fan of Langlitz and I have been itching to order a Columbia very much like the one you described, only in brown cowhide instead of black goat. Since you already have a Frobisher on the way though, I don’t think another straight zip dress collar jacket should be your next order.
For that reason I think you will be well served by the Bootlegger.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I would agree with that. That's precisely what kept me from ordering Aero's version, the aeromarine. The 25 extra lbs the patch pockets add to your gut become exacerbated even more with CXL. Pattern just isn't very exciting tbh until you get to Thedi, who seems to have mastered and modernized the proportions.

Agree, the shawl collar jackets look frumpy to my eye. But on some people they look good.

 

[nick123]

If you weren't close to Thurston Bros, my vote would be for Langlitz. A Columbia, Sidewinder, or Cascade. Black goat.

 

[Martinis at 8]

Rosecitymike. Don't worry about not being a rider. I'm an old rider, and would never wear one of these on a bike. They are too nice. I call these "fashion" motorcycle jackets. I have a nice fashion jacket I wear when I am not riding, looks good with jeans or chinos. For riding a I wear a Tourtech which is made for riding and getting beat up from these rides.

 

[Edward]

THe only thing that surprises me with Langlitz, given their specialism, is that they don't seem to make any provision for modern bike 'armour' - though perhaps they have a market that doesn't care for that. (Certainly, there seems to be a large proportion of the US motorcycling community still sore enough about helmet laws, without being 'force'd to wear anything else protective).

Aero Royale

I'd probably add the 59er Highwayman to that list, for those who want something of a slimmer version of the regular Highwayman (which was, in origin, a deliberately boxier, Americanised version of the former).

The Royale is quite a jacket, imo - definitely on my hitlist. It makes me think of an A2 for people who don't like knits, or, moreso, the Indiana Jones jacket as it might have looked if they were startin from scratch and wanted something just a touch more period-authentic than the actual jacket Ford wore.

Maybe I should have said, which should I get FIRST.

NOW you're speaking TFL's language!

I thought Himel made to measure... Or at least is certainly capable.

Though bear in mind that made to measure is just that - not bespoke. Bespoke involves a full pattern being made just for the individual; made to measure is the adaptation of an existing pattern to an individual's measurements. The M2M tweaking can certainly help fit a lot, but it's never really going to make a boxy jacket fit neatly, or a jacket designed to be heavily 'v'ed' look quite right on a barrel-shaped body.

I would agree with that. That's precisely what kept me from ordering Aero's version, the aeromarine. The 25 extra lbs the patch pockets add to your gut become exacerbated even more with CXL. Pattern just isn't very exciting tbh until you get to Thedi, who seems to have mastered and modernized the proportions.

The advantage, of course, with such a widely done style is that you'll find all sorts of variations across makers to please those who want the original, boxier fit, those who want a modernised, trimmer fit, and all points in between. I've seem Aeromarines with handwarmers instead of patch pockets too.

 

[Superfluous]

Though bear in mind that made to measure is just that - not bespoke. Bespoke involves a full pattern being made just for the individual; made to measure is the adaptation of an existing pattern to an individual's measurements. The M2M tweaking can certainly help fit a lot, but it's never really going to make a boxy jacket fit neatly, or a jacket designed to be heavily 'v'ed' look quite right on a barrel-shaped body.

Depends on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers will only modify sleeve and body length, such that the taper and general fit of the jacket remain the same. Conversely, Himel can and will modify just about anything. Himel will make a jacket to your exact specifications, including shoulder, chest and bottom width. Yes, he works with an existing pattern, but he will completely revise the pattern to accommodate the customer's specifications. He can also change the width of sleeves, as he did for my Kensingtons, and much more. The end result may not be "bespoke" in the truest sense of the word, but it is nevertheless a fully customized fit.

FWIW, Himel will also make custom patterns, including for new jackets he has never made before. It ain't cheap, but he can do it.

I completely agree that OTR Herons are boxy. That said, Himel can change the fit/taper as specified by the purchaser and thereby transform a Heron into a slimmer fitting jacket.

Thedi's similarly styled shawl collar jacket is a nice alternative because it is already cut slimmer, without the risk of overhauling the fit of the Heron.

 

[Edward]

I'm actually enjoying seeing how several different companies reinterpret that basic design with their own fits, ideas, and flourishes. It's comparable to what happened with the various interpretations of the USAAF's A2 specs back when. Something more of an insight into that process....