Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Harp]

Harp, I appreciate your comment, but in Picture #2 with the lamp post behind him and in picture #4 with him standing on the subway steps- the collar has button holes. I doubt it was a neutered regular one..

Neutered, a sartorial generic applicable to standard trench redesign. Keach's knockoff fits that bill.
A nice look trench, but I honestly do not understand why the original trench had to be altered.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Neutered, a sartorial generic applicable to standard trench redesign. Keach's knockoff fits that bill.
A nice look trench, but I honestly do not understand why the original trench had to be altered.

Trench coats are an idea not a dogma - I don't think fashion or most garment makers care about the intricacies or heritage of garments they make. Pretty sure this '80's TV production didn't care either.

 

[Harp]

Trench coats are an idea not a dogma - I don't think fashion or most garment makers care about the intricacies or heritage of garments they make. Pretty sure this '80's TV production didn't care either.

The trench basic design dates to World War I; and, my earlier posting stated that I was a devil's advocate
for the standard trench, not preaching dogma, and cognizant of altered design, which reflects K's coat.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The trench basic design dates to World War I; and, my earlier posting stated that I was a devil's advocate
for the standard trench, not preaching dogma, and cognizant of altered design, which reflects K's coat.

No worries but given you ‘do not understand’ why they had to change it you’re going to get a response like mine.

 

[Harp]

No worries but given you ‘do not understand’ why they had to change it you’re going to get a response like mine.

A design that set the standard; which I favor unapologetically: an if it ain't broke, don't fix it trench bias.
What time is it in Australia now? 14.00hrs or so.? Happy New Year mate. Lets hope for a better year.

 

[Seb Lucas]

There was an interview with Keach wherein he said something like he had a huge head and struggled to find a good hat. In the original Keach telemovies the hat was shaped like a low pork pie. Micky Spillane wanted a pill box Stetson. I bet they tired a few trenchcoats before the series started and settled on this one probably because Keach liked the color and fit. A bone one would not have looked as good to my eye. I think they did well with his costume given the horror show that was 1980's clothing. They seemed to go for a Robert Mitchum 1950's noir look, with some modern touches so it didn't look too much like a costume cliché. I think they deliberately avoided a trench in the initial productions for this reason. I think the trench coat and fedora is one of the hardest looks to make work.

 

[Doctor Damage]

This is going to make no one happy but there is no "original trench coat". Sure, they were used in the Great War, but they were not an official issue item, and were usually worn only by officers who purchased them privately from clothing stores, so there was little "uniformity" about them, which you'll see if you look at enough old photos from the period. If you've heard/read that they were issued by the British army or others, you've been misinformed.

 

[Seb Lucas]

This is going to make no one happy but there is no "original trench coat". Sure, they were used in the Great War, but they were not an official issue item, and were usually worn only by officers who purchased them privately from clothing stores, so there was little "uniformity" about them, which you'll see if you look at enough old photos from the period. If you've heard/read that they were issued by the British army or others, you've been misinformed.

It makes me happy, Doc.

 

[Kenneth Lawson]

He did that war-weary don't give-a-S**T attitude and look very good.
Bogart could do it too, But I think he was a little more put together.
The tired worn-out PI look is now a trope and a bit of a cliche'.
But still a good one.
Pretty much any coat and hat that looks like it's been worn hard and put away wet will gett the looks across.
I do like it.
I always like the Mike Hammer series, I believe it's still on Amazon, I think in the INDB section with ads.

 

[Kenneth Lawson]

This is what I would do, too. As for fit, Bogart was a diminutive man with a huge head, so it's going to be impossible for a man living in the modern age to get the same fit unless you happen to be tiny like him. I've got several trench coats, none of which resemble the Casablanca coat in detail, but they capture a little of the "spirit" of the thing.

To a very large degree, that's what most of us are trying to do I think. Getting the exact right piece is almost impossible, especially if your not of average size and shape. In my case, my hat size is extremely small so finding a hat that fits is almost impossible.
On the flip side, if your extra big, finding vintage stuff that fits can be a problem. So most of us wind up doing the best we can and aim for the feeling and general spirit of the era we love.

 

[Seb Lucas]

He did that war-weary don't give-a-S**T attitude and look very good.
Bogart could do it too, But I think he was a little more put together.
The tired worn-out PI look is now a trope and a bit of a cliche'.
But still a good one.
Pretty much any coat and hat that looks like it's been worn hard and put away wet will gett the looks across.
I do like it.
I always like the Mike Hammer series, I believe it's still on Amazon, I think in the INDB section with ads.

The thing about the PI trope is that as a character the PI is actually the last idealist in a world of cynics, the final romantic in a world full of selfish pissants. The PI and Mike Hammer of the series was this, was selfless and generous and could be relied upon - as opposed to everyone else who was on the make. The world weariness was mostly a reaction to a world that had lost its innocence and been taken over by sharks. A well worn trope which is doing the rounds more broadly as we speak.

 

[Doctor Damage]

 

[-Ariel-]

My new Korean gabardine trench. By the way, what is this thing on the belt for (on the photo)?

 

[Marc mndt]

By the way, what is this thing on the belt for (on the photo)?

It's for keeping the belt in place. You should run it through one of the belt loops.

 

[Doctor Damage]

It's for keeping the belt in place. You should run it through one of the belt loops.

Exactly right. This is very common on old London Fog trenchcoats. Check the belt loops: one of the two main loops (probably on the left side) should have a smaller loop under the main loop. The mini-strap on the belt buttons through that smaller loop, while the belt passes through the main loop.

 

[-Ariel-]

Exactly right. This is very common on old London Fog trenchcoats. Check the belt loops: one of the two main loops (probably on the left side) should have a smaller loop under the main loop. The mini-strap on the belt buttons through that smaller loop, while the belt passes through the main loop.

Many thanks! You were right! Pretty useful feature!

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a trench coat with some odd detailing like the bellows pockets and snap-button closure.

 

[Doctor Damage]

 

[Doctor Damage]

I loved the style and panache of Mike hammer played by Stacy Keach...

I just want to say thanks to you, Gray Saint, for mentioning this tv series. I was not aware of it until you posted those pics of Stacey Keach in that green trench coat. I sold a flight jacket a while back and used the $$ to pick up this series on dvd and I'm loving it. I agree Keach has a great swagger, the stories are smart with some good one-liners, and it's like a 1980s time machine (old clothes, old cars, etc, and great scenes of NYC). So again, thanks!

 

[Doctor Damage]