Two or Three Button

[AlanC]

Peak lapels on both suit and waistcoat seems too much. How about a shawl lapel on the waistcoat?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Peak lapels on both suit and waistcoat seems too much. How about a shawl lapel on the waistcoat?

It was common for peak lapels to be on both the jacket's and the waistcoat's lapels. Tailors of the 1920s and '30s didn't consider it to be "too much", although the subject is open to argument.

When the jacket had notch lapels, the (single-breasted) waistcoat's lapels, if any, were also usually notched.

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[Rhabryn]

Douglas,

I definitely agree, you have put alot of thought into your suit of choice and I have to commend you - you should go with what you like and are comfortable with.

An anecdote with regard to vents vs. body type, I have similar features to those you've described and, originally, I actually did have alot of trouble getting double-vented suits to not billow out over my posterior, but with time, I've been able to find suits that have good waist supression and fit closely, but dont have this problem. I think its really about getting the cut that works for you.

However, I do think you should go with what you think will work best - especially when its high-stakes like a custom-made suit.

I suppose I am a bit of an oddball, as I, despite my size, enjoy low-gorge jackets paired with high-gorge waistcoats and the less aggressive lapel angle.

 

[Tomasso]

I actually did have alot of trouble getting double-vented suits to not billow out over my posterior but with time, I've been able to find suits that have good waist supression and fit closely

 

[Rhabryn]

I'm completely in the dark as far as what that response meant... the meaning just doesn't 'strike' me.

 

[DOUGLAS]

Here are four possible fabrics. My favorite at top. I wanted a solid but some fabric are so beautiful I may go for a pattern.
100% wool

Merino wool and silk

Cashmere and silk

wool Saxony

 

[Feraud]

Douglas, it reads like you want a solid gray suit. #1 looks like a great choice. Would you know the weight of the fabric?

On a personal note I love samples #2, 3! I am crazy for patterns.
While I would appreciate a double breasted suit made from the #4 Saxony, the 2, 3 patterns would make fantastic sbpl suits.

Thanks for keeping us in the loop on your project. I am enjoying the process!

 

[DOUGLAS]

Thanks Feraud, I do want a solid color preferablely in a light gray. I want to be able the mix up trousers and jackets so I can expand my wardrobe without having to buy a suit in every combination. The nailhead fabric is my second choice. Even though the photo is blown up to show the pattern more it is a beautiful fabric and pattern. I thought about having the suit made with that fabric but I think I need a solid gray. The solid above is a good color. It is a RL fabric and for me medium light in weight. I am still looking for something a bit heavier. Everyone I speak with tells me the same thing that heavier cloth is not popular but I am confedent I will find something I like with out having to give up too much.

 

[Tomasso]

I'm completely in the dark as far as what that response meant...

How about.......

 

[scotrace]

2 vs 3 peaked.

 

[DOUGLAS]

Thank you Scotrace..... that is extremely helpful. The two button will work much better based on the side by side.

 

[Tango Yankee]

My reason for not wanting vents is that my body is not model-like. My back end is not small. I have a long torso and short arms and legs.

That's me in a nutshell, so this thread is helping me as well. I've found that I need to get trousers in long so they'll have a high enough rise and then have them hemmed to fit my 30" inseam. A long coat, with the sleeves shortened about 2". All in all a ****** pain! Took me a long time to figure out, too, as for most of my adult life it was uniforms on duty and jeans/dockers with polo shirts off duty. Always had a problem with shirts coming untucked but never bothered looking into whether or not I could do something about it!

Cheers,
Tom

 

[MrBern]

I think this is a two button with pleated pants & vest

BTW BillCunnignham jsut observed that Grey is VERY popular on the streets:
http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/02/20/fashion/20090221-street-feature/index.html

 

[DOUGLAS]

That is a great suit Mr.Bern. That is very close to what my eye has in mind.

 

[DOUGLAS]

Well, I have decided on a medium weight light gray flannel. Not very exciting but I think it will do the trick. I looked everywhere for a wool twill in a light gray that is on the warm side but could only find darker colors. I've seen some beautiful fabrics that were heavier weight in cashmere and mink and some made with an angora blend but too heavy for wear in any season but winter.

I found a tailor as well close to where my office is. The man has been tailoring my jackets, suits shirts and pants for more than ten years now. He is from South Korea and was a suit maker there before coming to the US. He genuinely seems excited about making me a suit and after a long talk and showing him photos and a list of what I want he doesn't seem rattled or surprised. I will supply the fabric and he will make the suit. He doesn't trust my ability to choose a proper lining so he wants to get that himself. I got samples anyway. Although this man is not from a custom house He is confident and I will be able to see the progress often and torture him on details untill I am satisfied. I emailed several other known custom suit makers with a list of what I want and not one returned to me with a response.

I don't know anything about suit making but if someone can't return an email after three days It doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling about how they will treat me as a customer.I will give this man a try. The man I will use is happy , excited and chomping at the bit to please me and says he can make exactly what I want. If he fails than I can't blame anyone but myself and can have him work on it until it is right.

Wish me luck. I will either look fantastic or like a jack-***.

 

[Tomasso]

BTW BillCunnignham jsut observed that Grey is VERY popular on the streets:
http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/02/20/fashion/20090221-street-feature/index.html

I much prefer Cunningham to the Sartorialist; it's like Jacques Pépin vs Rachael Ray.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I think this is a two button with pleated pants & vest

Matt Deckard had a near-exact copy of this suit made for himself. The (Gable) original was by Eddie Schmidt. It does indeed have two highly-placed buttons.


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[DOUGLAS]

The "Gable" is generally the look I am hoping to achieve. I like the placement of the buttons. Because the top button seems higher it will allow me to get into my side and rear pockets of my pants easily since I am not going to have vents. I also plan on having patch pockets on the jacket without flaps.

 

[DOUGLAS]

I bought the fabric and lining material today. I ended up with a light gray flannel. I believe this color will look good with blues and browns as well as darker grays which is what I wanted. I am going to be measured later on if I have time.

 

[bobalooba]

I have a blazer that is very similar to sample number four and I think it looks great but to each his own.

What kind of hat were you planning to wear with it?