US Manufactured Jeans

[Aloysius]

If you can get some Roy stuff. Thats the ultimate, but he's not still making jeans

Well the ultimate in MiUSA denim is probably Bowery Blue but it's so insanely inside baseball denim/sewing nerdery that it isn't relevant let alone worth it for most people.

Background (I imagine you know this, but sharing since TFL is probably the audience for this stuff): The owner of Bowery Blue is a sewing machine expert and collector from Japan, who lives in New York. His interest is really in sewing machines and sewing techniques more than denim per se.

He makes a few different models of jeans with exactly period accurate techniques– to the obsessive extent that there are two similar pairs, one of which costs a few times more– because the mid-19th century machine used to sew it takes several times longer to use in working time. There's actually a little warning by that model saying only to order it if you specifically want that. Clearly someone who knows his audience.

I'm genuinely tempted to place an order with him in person before I move to California.

 

[Will Zach]

Alterations - American Denim - Custom Jeans | Williamsburg Garment Co.

Brooklyn's raw denim American made jeans specialist and leader in denim alterations services. Producer of handmade custom jeans for Men, Women, plus Big & Tall. Read our blog for trustworthy denim related articles to guide & inform.

williamsburggarment.com

 

[dwilson]

I never quite understood the Roy hype tbh. It felt like the story of the one man shop increased the mythos and the interesting scalloped stitching as well. Personally I always thought the fits and cuts never were flattering on people. It was also pretty generic denim being used.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Well the ultimate in MiUSA denim is probably Bowery Blue but it's so insanely inside baseball denim/sewing nerdery that it isn't relevant let alone worth it for most people.

Background (I imagine you know this, but sharing since TFL is probably the audience for this stuff): The owner of Bowery Blue is a sewing machine expert and collector from Japan, who lives in New York. His interest is really in sewing machines and sewing techniques more than denim per se.

He makes a few different models of jeans with exactly period accurate techniques– to the obsessive extent that there are two similar pairs, one of which costs a few times more– because the mid-19th century machine used to sew it takes several times longer to use in working time. There's actually a little warning by that model saying only to order it if you specifically want that. Clearly someone who knows his audience.

I'm genuinely tempted to place an order with him in person before I move to California.

He's amazing. I didn't mention him mostly because he basically never has orders available sadly. I want some of his work though

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I never quite understood the Roy hype tbh. It felt like the story of the one man shop increased the mythos and the interesting scalloped stitching as well. Personally I always thought the fits and cuts never were flattering on people. It was also pretty generic denim being used.

He's really good at sewing. Like, ridiculously clean sewing. But yeah ooe has much better patterns imo. They're Japan though. I love Ooe

 

[dr greg]

I picked up a pair of cone mills Tellasons recently, as new, exactly my size, $1....no-one knew what they were, pockets a bit low at the back is my only complaint, i might be old but i still have an actual arse..

 

[Tom71]

Any thoughts on Left Field NYC?

I recently picked up their “work unfiform denim” in a very light 12oz twill (non-selvedge). Pretty happy, but more for the easier wear in summer, and I didn’t really bother about construction or history of the maker.

 

[dwilson]

Left Field is pretty good. I haven't owned any denim by them but I had a pair of khakis and sweatpants. Both were pretty decent.

 

[El Marro]

Any thoughts on Left Field NYC?

I recently picked up their “work unfiform denim” in a very light 12oz twill (non-selvedge). Pretty happy, but more for the easier wear in summer, and I didn’t really bother about construction or history of the maker.

I’ve got three or four pairs of jeans from them, in both the Greaser and the Atlas fit. Nice denim, quality construction, and cuts that seem to work with my body.

 

[Will Zach]

Anyone know what happened with the guy who ran lawless a number of years ago? No he was a real belter. After losing my stake I refused to invest in any more crowdfunding.

Not to make light (or worse, rub it in - that is not my intention) of people who lost their money on Lawless, I recently picked up a used pair for next to nothing. I really like the jeans, probably my favorite pair of black denim. Regarding the crooked proprietor, he settled with the AG and has been issuing refunds as recently as three years ago, according to reddit. Might be worthwhile to look for second-hand pairs if one is into thrifting. Denim is substantial (feels like about 16-oz) and the black color is just right (charcoal). In fact I like the color right now so much that I hate to think of washing them lest it becomes more washed out, lol.

 

[Blackadder]

Anyone know what happened with the guy who ran lawless a number of years ago? No he was a real belter. After losing my stake I refused to invest in any more crowdfunding.

It is not just the crowdfunding type. I have reservation about custom and preorder jeans these days. I was lucky and got my refund from Lawless.
My Westride x CSF arrived 6 months late. I ordered two pairs of jeans from Monsivais and despite being the same tag size, one is a size smaller than the other. I exchanged the undersized one and the replacement is still undersized. I kept both at the end.

 

[dwilson]

I was kind of out of the loop when Lawless was crowd funding but why did so many people back the project? It looked like ultra generic jeans to me. Was the price so low people decided to roll the dice on a too good to be true offer?

 

[Blackadder]

I was kind of out of the loop when Lawless was crowd funding but why did so many people back the project? It looked like ultra generic jeans to me. Was the price so low people decided to roll the dice on a too good to be true offer?

I don't know what attracted the others. I was lured by some special denim (brown x indigo etc) and low price.

 

[Worf]

Hmmm when I tried to stick my toe into the Selvidge waters I got robbed... literally, by a company that never delivered, never responded. I swore I'd never make that mistake again. Looking at this thread only makes me renew my vow. Only one of the makers above produces anything in size 42 to 44 and their "sold out". It seems Selvidge is NOT in the cards for me.

Worf

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Hmmm when I tried to stick my toe into the Selvidge waters I got robbed... literally, by a company that never delivered, never responded. I swore I'd never make that mistake again. Looking at this thread only makes me renew my vow. Only one of the makers above produces anything in size 42 to 44 and their "sold out". It seems Selvidge is NOT in the cards for me.

Worf

Contact Railcar Fine Goods. They offer up to something like size 46 or 48 or something and they are known to be trustworthy. They don't crowdfund or anything like that.

 

[Aloysius]

lol once I saw "Correction Connection" was a username posting in the thread, I assumed it was someone shilling for Prison Blues. Apparently it's the brand itself…