Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

[JasonY]

That’s always been one of my favorites.. that actually looks like it fits you very well.

Some quick and dirty (low light) pics of my new (old) C2.

Guessing it’s last millennium given the hardware—brass talon zippers and box, though interestingly the plating has worn off the pull to reveal a silver colour and the box to reveal a redder brass colour. Like @TartuWolf ’s recent Oxford, which may be from a similar era, the quilted lining is weirdly immaculate despite minor signs of wear to the leather and hardware.

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I’m on the fence as to whether a 36 might fit a little better. This definitely isn’t a T shirt fit but will see how it does with a warm jumper come autumn.

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Fit looks like the perfect balance of t-shirt v layering to me.

 

[unhatted]

far too many black x-zips

I mean, I only have one for every day of the week! Though the 1-in-1-out policy does mean the longer Als will be on the block shortly…

 

[TartuWolf]

That’s nice, looks like a 36 though and breaks my boc-length<60cms rule, which I usually cap at 58cms or 23”.

Let's this confusing thread banish your foolish rule:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-determines-back-length.111008/
Depending on the pattern a 60cm back might in reality fit the same as a 58cm back on a different jacket/pattern.
For example If I'd repeat my Aero hooch hauler order I'd ask for a 60-61cm back instead of the current 59cm. If I'd repeat my Rugged West order I'd ask for a 57cm back instead of the current 59cm one.
So, as always, don't be too rigid and get "perfect" in the way of you finding a fantastic jacket

 

[NielsLyhne]

Thanks so much @TartuWolf for the heads-up.

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/e...ril.jp/46c42462bc9a7c382fd4df7b1e7905ab/19_1/

Even lankier proportions than mine : a size 32 with 67cm / 26” sleeves.

 

[TartuWolf]

Thanks so much @TartuWolf for the heads-up.

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https://item.fril.jp/46c42462bc9a7c382fd4df7b1e7905ab/19_1/

Even lankier proportions than mine : a size 32 with 67cm / 26” sleeves.

I've seen that one when I was scouting for something for my wife, I guess she would be around 32. Also saw a few horsehide ones... I need to stay away from those searches and thoughts.

 

[NielsLyhne]

I've seen that one when I was scouting for something for my wife, I guess she would be around 32. Also saw a few horsehide ones... I need to stay away from those searches and thoughts.

So do I haha

 

[unhatted]

@TartuWolf @Zoro @Tom71 and @JasonY you were all correct. Having tried on with a thin jumper I have no business trying to squeeze into a 36 despite my 36 Model E having even a little room to cinch.

Which brings me to an oft repeated observation about the respective merits of both jackets—that the C2 somehow manages to feel both less fitted and more restrictive than the E. I think this is absolutely the case with this one, albeit here in one size up and from different millennia. That said, the C2 has a less-busy and lighter charm of its own. My E is at the top end of weight/volume of leather I want to be carrying around!

 

[JasonY]

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@TartuWolf @Zoro @Tom71 and @JasonY you were all correct. Having tried on with a thin jumper I have no business trying to squeeze into a 36 despite my 36 Model E having even a little room to cinch.

Which brings me to an oft repeated observation about the respective merits of both jackets—that the C2 somehow manages to feel both less fitted and more restrictive than the E. I think this is absolutely the case with this one, albeit here in one size up and from different millennia. That said, the C2 has a less-busy and lighter charm of its own. My E is at the top end of weight/volume of leather I want to be carrying around!

Looks great!

 

[Marvin Berry]

Here's the Granite Roma Comet I grabbed in the showroom last week. I like the fit, a little more wiggle room than my board racer and the length works for me too. When I bought it, it was stiff as a board, starting to soften now. It also looks gray in lower lights, but looking at the pics of it hanging in the sun, I see a lot of brown. Too hot to wear it right now, so I thought I'd give it some time in the sun to see if it changes the color at all.

 

[jkoj]

Here's the Granite Roma Comet I grabbed in the showroom last week. I like the fit, a little more wiggle room than my board racer and the length works for me too. When I bought it, it was stiff as a board, starting to soften now. It also looks gray in lower lights, but looking at the pics of it hanging in the sun, I see a lot of brown. Too hot to wear it right now, so I thought I'd give it some time in the sun to see if it changes the color at all.
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I might take a ride down there this week. Did you see any styles in brown size 40. Maybe a comet or a maverick

 

[Marvin Berry]

I'm afraid I didn't notice much beyond the Comets and Oxfords in 42 and 44. There are a couple other Comet colors other than black, a nice green one in 42, but there was a thumbprint sized spot on the chest where it looked like the color had been wiped off. Too bad, I would've grabbed that one instead. And I nice brown Comet, but it was a size 50.

I wish I had looked around in the other room, I probably would've grabbed a gambler too.

 

[LuddGang]

I just managed to buy a pretty immaculate looking AZ2 in competition weight (I think it’s one of these anyway - the only cafe racer with the cinches?)

I only have the tag size (44) so it’s a bit of a punt. Does anyone know the stock measurements for these/the regular model A please?

I’m buying it in the hope that it’s a keeper but am not sure if it’s going to end up being a little bit too long.

 

[JonS1967]

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@TartuWolf @Zoro @Tom71 and @JasonY you were all correct. Having tried on with a thin jumper I have no business trying to squeeze into a 36 despite my 36 Model E having even a little room to cinch.

Which brings me to an oft repeated observation about the respective merits of both jackets—that the C2 somehow manages to feel both less fitted and more restrictive than the E. I think this is absolutely the case with this one, albeit here in one size up and from different millennia. That said, the C2 has a less-busy and lighter charm of its own. My E is at the top end of weight/volume of leather I want to be carrying around!

Sure looks like a perfect fit to me. It’s a gorgeous jacket! Congratulations!

 

[unhatted]

Since I briefly have 4 comp weight Vansons spanning 15-20 years of production I thought I’d do an unscientific comparison of the leather through the years. Unfortunately, the oldest, an Atlas, isn’t on Vanson’s records, but I’m guessing the 14000s serial implies early 90s. If anyone has a 14000 jacket or knows the Atlas production years and might be able to narrow it down let me know! The latest is a 2010 Mule special edition. I’m not sure if that makes it the ‘new’ or ‘old’ comp weight—I would describe it as different but not that different.

Here are the jackets and weights (kg), thicknesses (mm) and observations:

Atlas #14000 (1990-3?)

Weight: 2.29
Gusset: 1.9
Sleeve folded: 4.5
Back folded: 4

This is not a beast of a jacket but the leather is gorgeous and relatively substantial. It has an accidental Fine Creek thing going on in the sense that one of the front panels has a creased, tumbled appearance and the remaining panels (except for lower biceps) all remain very smooth.

C2 #18000 (1994)
Weight: 2.43
Gusset: 1.7
Sleeve folded: 4
Back folded: 4

Similar to the above, with a slightly drier, more matte appearance, and a slight brown core. I suspect the heavier weight is in part just that this is lined and less minimalist than the Atlas.

E #64000 (2003)
Weight: 3.07
Gusset: 1.8
Sleeve folded: 4.7
Back folded: 5

The standout imo. Some of the weight is likely due to the extra layers of leather in the E, but the leather just feels juicier and more substantial thank anything I’ve handled from most other makers (heavier C/Als aside). It’s pliable the way lead is, if that makes sense! Shiny without being glossy. I will say this is also clearly the most broken in, which might be why it looks so good!

SE Mule #15000 (2010, custom run #)

Weight: 2.20
Gusset: 1.7
Sleeve folded: 4.0
Back folded: 5

This is the least worn in. Much grainier in places, softer and more supple, with less shine. Definitely no thinner or lighter than the 90s comp weight though, particularly given that this has by far the least leather due to no lapels, pockets, epaulettes, stiffening etc.

Overall observations:

Given all the rhapsodising about 90s comp weight I was surprised that it’s the 2003 E that IMHO most lives up to the hype, though I think the fact that it’s the most worn helps. The least worn, the 2010 SE, is definitely the least inspiring, but that might well change. The original owner who sold it to me said he never wore it and neither have I as yet. Interestingly, there was much less variation in thickness, and even weight, than the different feel of the various jackets would have had me believe-on this admittedly limited evidence the spec appears a relatively tight one over this period.

Here are some comparison photos of 1) most broken in panels 2) least broken in panels 3) sleeves 4) backs/sides and 5) kidney panels. In each photo they are in descending age e.g. Atlas, C2, E, SE Mule:

 

[Bobbyg]

Does anyone know if the mouton collar for the E will fit different sizes??
I have a size 42 E highwayman deluxe and I’m considering getting a size 40, but am wondering if I can use the same fur collar I have on my 42.
Also if anyone is interested/considering trading a size 40 for a 42 let me know

 

[TartuWolf]

Look what I found guys, the Vanson JP database, a lot of interesting models there!
https://www.vanson.jp/db/admin/index.html

 

[unhatted]

Anyone know what model this is?

 

[TartuWolf]

@unhatted model F

 

[unhatted]

@unhatted model F

Thanks but doesn’t that have a collar?

 

[TartuWolf]

Thanks but doesn’t that have a collar?

You are correct! It's either a custom one off or someone butchered this jacket. Either way it's clearly based on a model F.