Vintage evening waistcoats for white tie in London

[imprimerie]

I’ve a ball this summer, and have been looking for white tie. I’m rather small (approximately 26–8 in waist unless I have a porterhouse or something to myself) which poses something of a difficulty. So far, I’ve found a coat and even trousers of sufficiently high rise; I’ve a bow tie for subfusc and will be able to find a detachable collar fairly easily. I’ve also found a shirt.

That leaves the waistcoat. Every waistcoat I have tried is far too long; the coat I have fits well—but therefore leaves less room for the waistcoat. I’ve looked in various charity shops in London (none of which had anything), Hornets (off High Street Kensington) and Vestige (near Putney Bridge). I believe that David Saxby was done for tax irregularities and I’m not sure that he’s still operating. I’ve also looked online (Savvy Row, Victory Vintage, ebay, Etsy, Fogey Unlimited.) None of the measurements suggest that their results would be any better. Off the rack waistcoats are of course too long as well, so are no help; and none of them are DB or rounded, which when I’ve seen looks rather attractive. It’s rather bizarre; there seem to be lots of old coats which cut away fairly high, but hardly any waistcoats that wouldn’t peep out from underneath.

I could have a new one made, but that would be more than the rest of the combination combined, which would rather defeat the point of the exercise—and would be a shame for something I am unlikely to wear particularly frequently. I’ve spent a little over £200 at the moment and hope to break even in comparison to rental if I attend two more, which is fairly likely. But I’d welcome other suggestions.

 

[Cuvier]

Could you find one that's slightly long but fits elsewhere and have a tailor take it up in the shoulders? I have several vests done that way and they fit much better. Does cost much and tends to be quick. At least for my tailor.

 

[Edward]

Probably having one adapted is the best bet. This is a very common problem nowadays. I've tried buying vintage, fwiw, but could never find an older one that wasn't too yellowed to use, even with significant treatments.


You might also try Darcy Clothing - https://www.darcyclothing.com/collections/waistcoats/products/marcella-evening-waistcoat-sh232

Their option looks in photos like it might be cut to a proper length; worth looking into. I've not owned one of these, though I have purchased many other bits from them over the years, and always been pleased with the quality and fit. They do most of their business by mail, though they do also have a retail outlet at their central premises in Lewes; about an hour on the train from central London, so very accessible if you wanted to try it out in person without messing about with the post (and Lewes is also a pleasant place to spend a day pottering around).

 

[imprimerie]

Could you find one that's slightly long but fits elsewhere and have a tailor take it up in the shoulders? I have several vests done that way and they fit much better. Does cost much and tends to be quick. At least for my tailor.

Hm, not a bad idea. How much did you have taken in off yours at the shoulders? I suppose the difficulty is that it’d be unclear, at least to me, how much could be taken in at the shoulders.

Probably having one adapted is the best bet. This is a very common problem nowadays. I've tried buying vintage, fwiw, but could never find an older one that wasn't too yellowed to use, even with significant treatments.


You might also try Darcy Clothing - https://www.darcyclothing.com/collections/waistcoats/products/marcella-evening-waistcoat-sh232

Their option looks in photos like it might be cut to a proper length; worth looking into. I've not owned one of these, though I have purchased many other bits from them over the years, and always been pleased with the quality and fit. They do most of their business by mail, though they do also have a retail outlet at their central premises in Lewes; about an hour on the train from central London, so very accessible if you wanted to try it out in person without messing about with the post (and Lewes is also a pleasant place to spend a day pottering around).

Thank you for the suggestion; I may pay them a visit. Perhaps you’re right about the yellowing, which could explain why so few are in circulation now.

 

[Cuvier]

Hm, not a bad idea. How much did you have taken in off yours at the shoulders? I suppose the difficulty is that it’d be unclear, at least to me, how much could be taken in at the shoulders.

I had about 1.25 inches taken out of a couple of my vests. And a bit less on some others. A good tailor can take up several inches there without it looking weird.
On mine once we adjusted the overall length we then brought in the sides and took out some excess material. It may take a couple of tries to get it perfect but it's very doable.
Currently all of my dressier vests, coats, trousers, ect are fully tailored to me. My tailor knows me by name. I'm actually bringing in another suit, sport coat, overcoat, and a few shirts to get taken up.
I very much recommend at least talking to one before you buy. May open up some options.

 

[Wolf99]

It is easy to pick up a backless white evening waistcoat pretty cheaply. The elastic strap is easily adjustable and, if it still hangs a little long, a safety pin can easily be employed to keep it at just the correct length. You won’t be taking the tailcoat off, so no one will know and backless is more comfortable in warm weather - which is why they became popular in the 30s.

 

[GHT]

It is easy to pick up a backless white evening waistcoat pretty cheaply. The elastic strap is easily adjustable and, if it still hangs a little long, a safety pin can easily be employed to keep it at just the correct length. You won’t be taking the tailcoat off, so no one will know and backless is more comfortable in warm weather - which is why they became popular in the 30s.

My other half made a few of those backless types. They do get regularly complimented.