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Wesco Boot Thread.

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,072
Location
Iowa
I did my order through Baker's and I've already emailed them, but one way or another they'll have to move on since they're too big. My heels barely even touch the back, so I would probably need to go down a size.
Sorry to hear that. Call Baker's directly, they are very good with service. But you may have to wait - a long - while before getting your new pair. Did you do the foot tracings?
 

Goel

A-List Customer
Messages
430
That's a shame, for sure. How long was your wait for this pair?
I got it right at the 2 year mark.

Sorry to hear that. Call Baker's directly, they are very good with service. But you may have to wait - a long - while before getting your new pair. Did you do the foot tracings?
I didn't use tracings, I used my regular last and size for lace ups. I found their standard sizing works really well for my feet as the last has a narrow heel and wider toebox, but before ordering I called them to discuss sizing and they said to stick with my standard size (same as the lace ups). Other maker's recommend sizing a half size down for slip on boots and I'm thinking I would need to do that, assuming they find my leather.
 

Chevalier

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
Starting the break in on my new Jobmasters. I had a pair of 7.5s that I tried to break in for a couple of years, but they were just too small. I’m sizing up to an 8 with these.
IMG_4876.jpeg
 

Chevalier

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
I’m getting conflicting info about the use of the boot oil during the break in process. The oil bottle says to use it sparingly on any hotspots. I also read that they dip the boots in oil before they leave the factory. This indicates to me that you should use it pretty liberally to help soften the leather at flex points. Anybody have experience that points either way?
 

soreilly

New in Town
Messages
24
I have a pair of the Mister Lous, but had them made in their domain leather and not horse. Which the first 3-4 years made them instantly comfortable be on a bike in, but now have gotten a little...saggy. Anyone have luck bringing a leather like that back to shape a bit especially in the shaft?
 

TZRZ421

New in Town
Messages
27
I put boot oil all over new boots and then just on the flex points later in they are still a bit inflexible. I have a pair of Viberg work boots (not their fashion line) and they took a lot to break in.
 

TZRZ421

New in Town
Messages
27
I have a pair of the Mister Lous, but had them made in their domain leather and not horse. Which the first 3-4 years made them instantly comfortable be on a bike in, but now have gotten a little...saggy. Anyone have luck bringing a leather like that back to shape a bit especially in the shaft?
I have the Wesco 7400 in the same leather in one shaft is saggy as well.
 
Messages
11,658
Location
Alabama
I'm making some assumptions here because I don't own any engineer boots and have never looked into their construction but there are some cowboy boot similarities. When boots are made, towards their completion, before the soles are added, they're worked on inside out and before the boots can be 'turned', they're dampened or even soaked a bit beforehand to make the leather pliable. To straighten the wrinkles in the shaft of the boot, makers insert what are called trees and they are left in while the boot dries. I've included some pics of vintage and modern trees. The Lisa Sorrell vid explains it better than I can.

I've straightened up some vintage boots by using empty plastic water bottles as "trees". Smart Water bottles work well, especially the taller ones. After wetting the shafts I place a bottle in the shaft with the cap sealed tightly. I then squeeze a second bottle into the shaft alongside the other until the leather is stretched over the bottles. The air volume usually has to be adjusted in the second bottle or a smaller bottle is used for fit. The spring loaded trees don't create enough tension to smooth the leather.
1744297387840.png

1744297464413.png

 

ShadowBoxer

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Los Angeles, California
Hi,
Is this thread just to show what we have or do any of you know how to figure out a date range for Wescos?

I have an old pair of Highliners and I've been wondering how old they are.
Some differences I see from current production are:
• They don't seem to be stitch down around the front.
• The side patch is not stitched to side of the foot of the boot, just the sole.
• The logo/label is not embossed but instead a stamp on one of the gussets.

I can post pix if you want, later when the sun is out.

Thanks for any help.
Take care.
 

ShadowBoxer

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Los Angeles, California
Here are some pix to go with the questions above (post 212).

IMG_8204.JPG
IMG_8202.JPG
IMG_8200.JPG
IMG_8199.JPG
IMG_8206.JPG


Also for got to mention; look how wide the base of the back piece is.
And do we know if there is/has been any variation to the thread count? The thicker white stitching here seems to be finer than what I've seen on more current examples.

Anyway,
They fit great, they seem to be in very good shape and condition so I'm already happy.
Was just wondering what decade they might have been made in.

Thanks for any help.
 

Chevalier

One of the Regulars
Messages
240
Here are some pix to go with the questions above (post 212).

View attachment 718064 View attachment 718065 View attachment 718066 View attachment 718067 View attachment 718068

Also for got to mention; look how wide the base of the back piece is.
And do we know if there is/has been any variation to the thread count? The thicker white stitching here seems to be finer than what I've seen on more current examples.

Anyway,
They fit great, they seem to be in very good shape and condition so I'm already happy.
Was just wondering what decade they might have been made in.

Thanks for any help.
Is there any info stamped next to the size? I have sometimes seen what looks like a 2 digit production year stamped there.
 

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