What is a "Reeded" Sweatband?

[Visigoth]

I see this sort of explained on the web, but not really: what precisely is a "reeded" sweatband? (Could someone show me in a picture?) And do all the best hats have them?

 

[squid]

I've been wondering this too. Is the reeding the thin strip between the felt and the sweatband? I assume this is to protect the felt from sweat that might soak through the leather? Both of the old hats I bought have this while neither of the expensive new hats have it.

 

[Prairie Shade]

I'll Take a Shot

I believe I was reading some info from Akubra that mentioned the reeding process that involved the placing of a "reed" between the sweatband and the hat body which kept it separated and helped prevent moisture transfer to the felt. I believe its a very small plastic "reed" which may be incorporated into the sweatbands when they buy them. How about "vermicelli like" hollow tube, I'm wandering but maybe I'm close.

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Fedora]

We use some pressure putting the ferrule together so the edge of the sweat is flared out thus preventing your head from direct contact with the felt and prolonging sweat staining.

Funny that some folks do not like this sort of sweat, and equate a quality hat with the other type of sweat, as seen in many vintage Borsalinos. I do not know the proper term for this other sort of sweatband, but I do know they cannot be re-installed once you take them out. Well, not without a machine. :eusa_doh:

My own feelings on the other sweat is they are inferior, if sweat is your enemy. And certainly a cheaper sweatband, in so far as materials used are concerned. There is more time involved in constructing a flanged sweat that is for sure. And this is probably the real reason they were used. But, I may be wrong in this appraisel.

What is odd to me, is I have seen loads of hats that contain a reeded sweat, but the hatter did not flange the sweat, and installed it without flanging the reed. When Marc was talking to a supplier in the UK, he was overjoyed that Marc wanted to flange the reeded sweats, just like the old time hatters used to do. It seems at least in some circles, this technique has been lost. I personally like the look of a properly flanged reeded sweat, but that is just me.

Also, while the monofiliment is used nowadays in most sweats, Akubra uses a wire instead. I think back in the old days, an organic reed was used, celluose based. Fedora

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Fedora]

instead sew it in using the stitching holes of the tape to the sweat instead of sewing thru the reeding tape.

Ah, now that explains it! I recently did a refurb that sported this method of attachment. I thought the hatter had put in the temporary stitching, and forgot to add the primary stitches, through the tape itself, on the inside of the leather. I had no idea this was done in a regular fashion by some hatters. Very strange indeed! I wish I could recall what brand of hat it was. I recall it was a modern hat, but that is about all.

The thing about flanging the sweat, is I had no clue this was done until GH told us about it around 3 years ago. While he claims he taught me how to make hats, the fact of the matter is, he only taught us how to flange a sweat. I would have went nuts trying to figure out how to get a permanent flange in a reeded sweat otherwise. Who would have thought the reed was cut longer than the sweat??? :eusa_doh: Well, not me, that is for sure. And that tip you gave me John on the assembly has certainly made this so much easier!! Thank you kind sir. It is not that common to have established hatters give you info and tips. I pass them on to other hatters, well, non competing hatters. And friends.

I also did not know the correct terminology for this "bell" on the sweat until I talked to Singer about sweatbands recently. He told me the correct term for this process. I am grateful. Fedora

 

[Visigoth]

Thanks for the info! I've pretty much gotten an idea of this -- can anyone point to diagrams/pictures online?

The only hat I have that doesn't have the reeded sweat seems to be a Churchill -- very nice hat, in other respects, and went for $17.50, according to the price tag.

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[SHARPETOYS]

Fedora wrote...

I also did not know the correct terminology for this "bell" on the sweat until I talked to Singer about sweatbands recently. He told me the correct term for this process.


I have a 1000X hat here that a guy from New England sent me to look at and it has the worst bell in the sweat I have ever seen... Can you believe this hat came from a master hatter. :rage: He is going to file a complaint for false advertising with the FTC.

 

[Visigoth]

Thanks John! Very helpful.

This term "bell" -- is that positive or negative?

 

[tonyb]

John, thanks for the input. You have plainly shown how the flanged sweatband makes for a more comfortable, "cushioned" fit. Makes perfect sense.
Now, does stretching a hat the amateur's way--with the sweat and the ribbon and all in situ--mess up that fine flanging work? Seems it might.

 

[Fedora]

Great flange John!! Would you believe some folks actually complain about a flanged sweat? Some folks think the only way a sweat should look is with no flange. I am serious. I think part of the problem is they got used to factory hats that were not flanged. They then assumed this was the ONLY way a sweat should look and saw the flanged as a defect. lol Fedora

 

[Fedora]

Here is one of mine. John does a better job, but mine ain't bad.

 

[Pilgrim]

Hey Mthatter, how about a shot of that entire hat? I'm curious as to what your everyday "western fedora" looks like.

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Visigoth]

I'm finding the (unreeded) grosgrain sweatband on this old Knox surprisingly comfortable. In fact, maybe even better for hot days. What's the reasoning for leather over cloth?

(I'm thinking a hat that fits a bit small might fit perfectly if I put in a silk sweat.)

 

[GentlemanFarmer]

Too dark

John and Fedora,

Thanks so much for the information on the sweatband. Just one thing and believe me, I'm not complaining, but could ya'll redo those two photos on a lighter hat? Maybe it's me, but I had trouble seeing the detail on those black hats.

A second question. I'd like to try to put a sweat in myself. I found an old, old Stetson that will end up as a beater down on the farm in Virginia. It doesn't have a sweatband. The body is in fair shape, a few moth bites and a stained hatband. I have an OR in that color in great shape, so I'm wanting to do this as a project hat. Now I sew up people for a living, so I should be able to sew in a sweat. Would either of you sell me a sweatband?

Thanks

 

[Dalexs]

...What is odd to me, is I have seen loads of hats that contain a reeded sweat, but the hatter did not flange the sweat, and installed it without flanging the reed...

You mean that I DIDN'T have to flange that sweat band after all?!? :eusa_doh:

(Although, I really do like he way it came out. It was worth the effort.)

 

[Matt Deckard]

I've never been a fan of How Borsalino sewed their sweatbands to their hats with multiple tiny little stitches. Your sweat ends up wearing down the stitching and the sweatband starts to come out. Reeded is the way to go.