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What Is the Allure of Japanese Leather Jackets?

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I think the allure for western buyers of Japanese leather goods is the same for Japanese buyers of western leather goods (like Aero, Vanson and Langlitz). It’s exotic because it’s not as easily obtained(although all those western makers do seem to have Japanese based outlets).
 

Marc mndt

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6,858
Do you own it Marc? Looks great!
Nope, I've sold all my cafe racers except one: the HD one pocket Sportster. The best cr ever made imo.

They're good looking jackets but they're not all that practical. I need a to place to put my keys, those chest pocket(s) are too small for that. Same time I hate the look of handwarmer pockets on a cr lol. Also, I strongly prefer vintage originals to repro jackets. I only buy repros when an original is impossible to obtain. Therefore, no RMC Buco's for me :)

C2082D32-7904-4BBE-A7AA-E99F0CF2EE3D.jpeg
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
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526
I would take the same size, but it fits tighter on me. I really like this jacket more than I expected I would after handling it in person. Personally for my fit preferences, I think it looks awesome from the front, but the back looks a touch loose, what are your thoughts?
The Flat Head is a brand that seems to have a wider shoulder / narrower hem (body) to their patterns. Might work better for some here.
Depends on the model, I think throughout they have high flat boxy shoulders. Their D-pocket has a nice v-taper but high armholes and tight chest for me personally. Their cafe racer is much too wide at the waist for me, feels like very little waist taper and just rather slim throughout.
 

Canuck Panda

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4,179
There are still some NOS RMC J100 in the original pattern, narrower shoulder, wider chest, more aggressive taper, in 44 and 46 last time I checked at the old pricing from the indie retailers not the RMC affiliated ones. The model number without the additional 1 in the front and white inside pocket instead of black. The current one with the additional 1 in the model number has wider shoulder, slimmer chest and more )( fit, and much more expensive, black pockets.

It is easy to categorize all jackets from Japan under one umbrella, would anyone categorize all jackets from US under one umbrella?

The Western retailers are selling Japanese jackets at a huge premium. The Japanese retailers are also selling American jackets at a huge premium. But those numbers are very skewed. Much like all numbers mentioned here. Judging the book by its cover will get the result of judging the book by its cover, you’ll miss out the interesting content inside…. And defeat the number purpose (to me) of having a hobby, is to enjoy it.
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
526
There are still some NOS RMC J100 in the original pattern, narrower shoulder, wider chest, more aggressive taper, in 44 and 46 last time I checked at the old pricing from the indie retailers not the RMC affiliated ones. The model number without the additional 1 in the front and white inside pocket instead of black. The current one with the additional 1 in the model number has wider shoulder, slimmer chest and more )( fit, and much more expensive, black pockets.

It is easy to categorize all jackets from Japan under one umbrella, would anyone categorize all jackets from US under one umbrella?

The Western retailers are selling Japanese jackets at a huge premium. The Japanese retailers are also selling American jackets at a huge premium. But those numbers are very skewed. Much like all numbers mentioned here. Judging the book by its cover will get the result of judging the book by its cover, you’ll miss out the interesting content inside…. And defeat the number purpose (to me) of having a hobby, is to enjoy it.
This is really true, dismissing a whole country's output of leather jackets is doing yourself a disservice. I tried on many leather jackets in Japan and they all had different fits, while some were not for me, it's probably the perfect fit for another person. Don't knock it til you try it, although it's kinda difficult unless you have a local retailer with your size...
 

Marc mndt

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6,858
I would take the same size, but it fits tighter on me. I really like this jacket more than I expected I would after handling it in person. Personally for my fit preferences, I think it looks awesome from the front, but the back looks a touch loose, what are your thoughts?
The fit felt good. Arms felt tight but I'm sure that was because it's a brand new jacket, needs to be broken in. I think it looks good from the back too tbh.

Overall though I feel like it's a lot of money for such a simple / basic jacket.
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
380
Location
California
The fit felt good. Arms felt tight but I'm sure that was because it's a brand new jacket, needs to be broken in. I think it looks good from the back too tbh.

Overall though I feel like it's a lot of money for such a simple / basic jacket.
I forgot to ask, how was the weather in May? Did you like that month to travel?
 

Aloysius

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3,431
Fountainhead size 42, two inch drop chest to hem, back length is only 25". P2P is 21.5" drops down to 20.5"
View attachment 527629 View attachment 527630

Toys Mccoy Elvis, same drop ratio as above just one size bigger, 44, P2P is 22.5" drops down to 21.5"
View attachment 527631 View attachment 527632

The Most drops Japanese jackets I have is actually the Toys Mccoy Durable, drops from 22.5" down to 19.5", size 42:
View attachment 527633 View attachment 527634

The La Brea I have is a 44, drops down from 23" to 21":
View attachment 527637 View attachment 527638

All the Japanese G-1 jackets I have have the 5" to 6" drop, all size 42,
Colimbo, Rainbow, Rainbow, Real Mccoys
View attachment 527639

Japanese Half belts have is the same drop 2" ratio, some has the tuck at the waist so no cinch needed, so are straight. I don't like Half belts...

And Let's not forget High Notch, another drop 6", but normal for Cafe Racer, and the J-100 RMC Buco is a drop 5" as well:

View attachment 527640

Huh, this proves my point more than anything else could.

You have an excellent figure and good posture, but the effectively no-drop look of these jackets (except the High Large, the RMC, and the TMC Durable) look like sacks hanging designed for a beer belly. What a waste of such good leather and workmanship if the patterns are like this!

Meanwhile when I see you in Aeros and Schotts (or the High Large, RMC, and Durable), it doesn't have that effect at all.
 

dudewuttheheck

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4,277
Painting all Japanese jackets with the same brush is a huge mistake. In my considerable experience, some Japanese jackets are much better than others. The patterns are not all equal. A lot of Japanese brand's have terrible patterns and some have quite good ones, even if not all fit everyone.

I've found that no modern jackets fit me all that well. I need vintage jackets for comfortable jackets thay don't look like bags on me. With that said, the Freewheelers Bodie and one older mccoys pattern do fit me quite well.

A lot of Japanese jackets are much too slim in the chest and loose in the waist. That look doesn't flatter many people, but if you get one with a great pattern, it's pretty special.

There are also a few small custom leather jacket shops in Japan that aren't even discussed on here often. There is a wide variety of Japanese leather jackets so it should be taken more case by case than people do.

Even among brands, some models are better than others and one jacket may be made better than another. My current favorite Freewheelers jacket is the worst made by far of the over 10 Freewheelers jackets I've owned.
 

Blackadder

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3,821
Location
China
Huh, this proves my point more than anything else could.

You have an excellent figure and good posture, but the effectively no-drop look of these jackets (except the High Large, the RMC, and the TMC Durable) look like sacks hanging designed for a beer belly. What a waste of such good leather and workmanship if the patterns are like this!

Meanwhile when I see you in Aeros and Schotts (or the High Large, RMC, and Durable), it doesn't have that effect at all.
I have always suspected what RM did with the J-24 later version is to copy the contemporary Lewis Leather Lightning cut that became popular around that time in the fashion world.
I just measured my LL Europa (regular not T cut) and it has barely a 2-inch drop (ptp 19, waist 17) chest to waist (can't imagine what the drop is on a T cut).
 

sshack

A-List Customer
Messages
380
Location
California
Huh, this proves my point more than anything else could.

You have an excellent figure and good posture, but the effectively no-drop look of these jackets (except the High Large, the RMC, and the TMC Durable) look like sacks hanging designed for a beer belly. What a waste of such good leather and workmanship if the patterns are like this!

Meanwhile when I see you in Aeros and Schotts (or the High Large, RMC, and Durable), it doesn't have that effect at all.
I guess we're seeing different things. Or at least focusing on different things.

What point does this prove again (not being snide)? The jackets with the smaller drops look like jackets with smaller drops... because they have smaller drops. Okay, maybe I'm being a little snide, heh heh. But seriously, @Canuck Panda even provided the measurements of the drop. So the jackets with more extreme drops look more tapered. Soo...these jackets look like how they're supposed to, right? The G1's are a little boxier, but that's because they're G1's.

We're not saying every jacket has to have an obvious triangle taper, right? Not everyone can rock a jacket like Mr. Proper.

FYI--at no point did I ever think any of Canuck's jackets look like hanging sacks. If anything, I was thinking... when will Canuck get bored of these jackets so I can insert my own beer belly into these lovely beasts.

A better wordsmith than myself once said, "thou doth protest too much."
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
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4,179
There is also an idea that Japanese jackets are more expensive so we have to look at them under microscope. Looking through microscope is personal choice, but pricing is a misunderstanding. They are only expensive when purchased in the US through an US retailer. The Japanese customers are buying them in Japan at the Japanese price which given the current exchange rate is still less than some of the premium jackets made in US or Europe. The Japanese single rider is ¥200,000 brand new, that’s USD 1400 today. The Japanese double rider is ¥250,000 ($1800). Only two outliers in pricing that is RMC and FW. Add ¥50000 for branding cost. More pricing info in last paragraph.

The sac look on my Japanese jackets are due to a few things. major one is leather. They aren’t as soft as some my other leather. People keep thinking Shinki is drapery but there are many different Shinki, the standard which is full aniline one is the lowest cost one in Japan and are some of the thicker but stiffest leather ive owned. The only two Shinki that feel luxury to me is the semi aniline one and the milled pigment one. These two aren’t used as often as people think. The only nice one I’ve got is my brown RC Herc, it’s the semi aniline one, what Greg calls pony and what Hi el calls oil tan. But ive also read in past cases where RC Herc are thick and stiff as hell, so that’s the basic standard aniline. My TM Durable is made of the nice milled pigment Shinki, but the waist is too small for me so the jacket rides up. All my other Japanese jackets are more basic Shinki. I’d expect my RMC J100 use milled pigment but no, it needs breakin. I have a RC pony boy that is also the nice milled pigment, I’ll post some pics next week I don’t have my drive with me. It basically fits the same as the Herc.

Even with all the flaws I still think my Japanese jackets are worth what I paid for them. Some much less than what I paid for a fancy US or EU/UK one. In about a month or so a bunch of like new / brand new fancy Japanese jackets will show up on the Japanese used market. People will be either dumping their brand new preorder due to fits or getting rid of their last year preorder. Price usually half to 30 off retail. This is how I got most of my Japanese jackets. Search in Japanese Katakana is your best friend…. If you search in English the sharks would be waiting for you…
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
526
There are still some NOS RMC J100 in the original pattern, narrower shoulder, wider chest, more aggressive taper, in 44 and 46 last time I checked at the old pricing from the indie retailers not the RMC affiliated ones. The model number without the additional 1 in the front and white inside pocket instead of black. The current one with the additional 1 in the model number has wider shoulder, slimmer chest and more )( fit, and much more expensive, black pockets.

It is easy to categorize all jackets from Japan under one umbrella, would anyone categorize all jackets from US under one umbrella?

The Western retailers are selling Japanese jackets at a huge premium. The Japanese retailers are also selling American jackets at a huge premium. But those numbers are very skewed. Much like all numbers mentioned here. Judging the book by its cover will get the result of judging the book by its cover, you’ll miss out the interesting content inside…. And defeat the number purpose (to me) of having a hobby, is to enjoy it.
Also, I found personally nice cafe racer pattern is the hardest to nail for me, I tried Flat Head, Schott, and some others slipping my mind. Most of the time, they don't have a nice shape on my body especially with my less than ideal body shape. That's why I'm quite drawn to the Real McCoys J-100, even though it's quite expensive, coming from looking at even modern Rainbow Country prices, it seems quite high, for even a basic pattern. But I really like their current model, it feels a touch tight though, but looks really good. I hope to get one soon, or hopefully find one on the second hand market for a deal.
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
526
I found the best fitting Cafe Racer styles are vintage ones.
I want to try many vintage cafe races, Bates, Brooks, Cal, HD, but since my bad luck with fitting them I am a bit hesitant. Also being across in Australia basically guarantees a hefty shipping charge, and it's a bit annoying to sell it on as a result.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,179
Also, I found personally nice cafe racer pattern is the hardest to nail for me, I tried Flat Head, Schott, and some others slipping my mind. Most of the time, they don't have a nice shape on my body especially with my less than ideal body shape. That's why I'm quite drawn to the Real McCoys J-100, even though it's quite expensive, coming from looking at even modern Rainbow Country prices, it seems quite high, for even a basic pattern. But I really like their current model, it feels a touch tight though, but looks really good. I hope to get one soon, or hopefully find one on the second hand market for a deal.
I have the old RMC J-100 in size 42. I would want a 44 in that pattern now I have an extra inch around the belly.
The old pattern is the BJ9110, new pattern is BJ19110, it also has white inside pocket vs black.
There is still a NOS 44 BJ9110 left in the RMC Ibaraki store at the old price.
Someone bought the 42 and 46 since I was last there
Judging by your TFH and Vanson E fit I think you need at least the 44 in the old pattern, and it will be T shirt fit. Here is how my BJ9110 42 measures, rediculous high arm holes, I need about 11" there to be comfortable, size 42 is only 10", my comfort zone is between 11" to 12". I have the same Vanson E 44 as you and it's 13" there, which is an inch too much for me.

IMG_7751.JPG

Shoulders fit like a shirt, but there is enough curve length, very good pattern:
IMG_7752.JPG


Drop 7 to waist on the old pattern, very aggressive. I wear 35.5"/36" jeans waist and I have to suck in now. Motivated to lose the one pack...
IMG_7745.JPG

IMG_7743.JPG


Flares out 2" around bottom opening to accomodate the belt:
IMG_7744.JPG


The new pattern BJ19110 in size 42 has 1" wider shoulder and an extra inch ease in the waist and hem from what I see in the photos, very much like my Rainbow Country racer but no action back. I like the old pattern, it's different than everything else I have. I will either bite the bullet for the 44 or lose the belly...
 

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