Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Hh121

Banned
Messages
3,004
Ykk do offer no.10 in vintage style, so far I only see Thedi use it.
 

Attachments

  • 74F26BC3-E5A1-4668-A588-DF2BE8E7F9C6.jpeg
    74F26BC3-E5A1-4668-A588-DF2BE8E7F9C6.jpeg
    816.6 KB · Views: 91
  • 2E403745-BD7D-4130-96CD-D53F9FC3B1E8.jpeg
    2E403745-BD7D-4130-96CD-D53F9FC3B1E8.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 84
Messages
10,279
I think the problem Is these vintage repro and NOs zips just can’t handle the weight of these hides. Even Stu who uses big ass #10’a has shit luck with old zips. Only way to go with heavy leather is brand spanking new #10 YKK. Pull might not excite but that is the most bomb proof zipper ever made. The jacket will disintegrate before that zipper fails.

1661114683462.gif
 
Messages
17,143
Location
Chicago
I wonder if Aero would allow a customer to source and supply their own zip? I doubt it but it might be worth the ask.
I’d do the same for LW although I don’t see them suffering the same fatalities as the Talons Aero uses.

Other option is to join the pussy boy lightweight leather club of which I am a charter member. We get pedicures on Sunday…so if you’ll excuse me.
 
Messages
17,143
Location
Chicago
I did ask them when I ordered KOTR and the answer I got is it won't fit even if you supplied.
So they just don’t want to do it then….I guess everybody draws a line in the sand somewhere. I can see them refusing to sew a hot pink porky pig “That’s all folks” on the back but a zipper is a very benign piece of hardware. At least IMO.
 
Messages
10,279
I wonder if Aero would allow a customer to source and supply their own zip? I doubt it but it might be worth the ask.
I’d do the same for LW although I don’t see them suffering the same fatalities as the Talons Aero uses.

Other option is to join the pussy boy lightweight leather club of which I am a charter member. We get pedicures on Sunday…so if you’ll excuse me.

The Scoville 10 zip ain’t the best, that’s for sure. It doesn’t explode like the 5 Talon does in the heavy hide but the tape can be a real issue. I’ve swapped out to 10 YKK on three LWs. (And an Aero, 2 Cals, Hercules, and All Weather lol).

The Talon 10 is pretty solid. The Crown are bulletproof.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,143
Location
Chicago
The Scoville 10 zip ain’t the best, that’s for sure. It doesn’t explode like the 5 Talon does in the heavy hide but the tape can be a real issue. I’ve swapped out to 10 YKK on three LWs. (And an Aero, Hercules, and All Weather lol).

The Talon 10 is pretty solid. The Crown are bulletproof.
One thing I noticed on the YKK’s is that both sides of the tape are notched, so the male pin cloth isn’t forced into a power struggle with the zipper box. Simple engineering that works wonders. I’ve never had a crown zip, surprisingly. But I believe they used them to close parts on battleships so I’m not surprised they hold their own.
 
Messages
10,279
One thing I noticed on the YKK’s is that both sides of the tape are notched, so the male pin cloth isn’t forced into a power struggle with the zipper box. Simple engineering that works wonders. I’ve never had a crown zip, surprisingly. But I believe they used them to close parts on battleships so I’m not surprised they hold their own.

Just checked, most of my YKK 10s are double- notched, but not all. The ones that are have tape and cloth in better condition. Though the YKKs with flat tape still have cloth in better shape than my other more contemporary zips, my Lenzips for example. YKK 10s imo is the way to go.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,049
Location
claremont california
Ideal and Linzip make excellent new American zippers. Ideal owns the brand name conmar and their nickel plate zips are very nice. Schott used #10 zippers in some of their higher price jackets. The problem with the #10 is the fabric tearing apart away from the male pin. I have in my closet TWO 1990'S comp weight leather Vansons (talon #10 Nickle plated zip) with the same problem. Despite the fact I am careful zipping up my slider, the material used in the tape just fails from constant use. The problem with NOS zippers is rotting in the cotton tape. However, I have only experienced ONE of these problems when I was testing and pulling super hard before sewing into a friend's jacket. Truly, If anyone has personally experienced a rotting problem with a NOS zipper they actually purchase to replace the main zipper, PLEASE SHARE YOUR ACTUAL EXPERIENCE. For my custom jackets, I would only trust a NOS. Having said that. I purchased a custom-made grizzly with a kick-ass YKK #12 zip. Japanese repros in size #10 are very good as well.
1950-1980 Military contract zippers (Robin,Ideal,serval,scovill,general,lenzip,and ykk) in #10 are excellent well-made zippers. They will work well with the heaviest 4-5 oz leather jackets. However, I will never, ever use them over a NOS 1940/50 talon,crown or conmar.
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,279
Ideal and Linzip make excellent new American zippers. Ideal owns the brand name conmar and their nickel plate zips are very nice. Schott used #10 zippers in some of their higher price jackets. The problem with the #10 is the fabric tearing apart away from the male pin. I have in my closet TWO 1990'S comp weight leather Vansons (talon #10 Nickle plated zip) with the same problem. Despite the fact I am careful zipping up my slider, the material used in the tape just fails from constant use. The problem with NOS zippers is rotting in the cotton tape. However, I have only experienced ONE of these problems when I was testing and pulling super hard before installing. Truly, If anyone has personally experienced a rotting problem with a NOS zipper they actually purchase to replace the main zipper, PLEASE SHARE YOUR ACTUAL EXPERIENCE. For my custom jackets, I would only trust a NOS. Having said that. I purchased a custom-made grizzly with a kick-ass YKK #12 zip. Japanese repros in size #10 are very good as well.
1950-1980 (Robin,Ideal,serval,scovill,general,lenzip,and ykk) Military contract zippers in #10 are excellent well-made zippers. They will work well with the heaviest 4-5 oz leather jackets. However, I will never, ever use them over a NOS 1940's talon,crown or conmar.

You had me at YKK 12
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,179
I did ask them when I ordered KOTR and the answer I got is it won't fit even if you supplied.
That particular Talon is hands down the worst. I have that on my red and black wool HB and even on a wool jacket, it’s a nightmare. I would rather put on as many layers as possible to avoid that zipper. Is this what your pull looks like?
View attachment 446175
I agree with Ivan. A pocket zipper at best. Maybe only good for a coin purse.

EDIT: Go here


I think it's an old zip thing. Which I am ok with.
The old teeth and the pin are done differently than the modern zips. Size somewhat matters but I think the tech of the zips has upgraded a lot since the 50s.

FWIW, I like the NOS boxy Talon Aero uses. I like my zip pulls a little chubby. More to grab onto. But the old metal are tired after all the years. Which I am ok with.

I also don't think the modern 10s can fit into their jackets the Aero way (tucked all the way in), there is no room for the wider teeth. Which is why they are hesitant to do it I believe.

The best zips are the Mi USA ones that Langlitz and Johnson uses. But these are modern zips. The modern male pin have two more bumps for the female end to grab onto now. Teeth are different too. The modern female receptical are also more forgiving, it will take the pin in (all the way) even when only half inserted. This is where the old ones failed.

With any old zips, one has to be very careful at the begining. The male pin needs to go all the way in. If not, then the zip has a high chance or failing. I take it this is how old things teachs us to slow down, and enjoy the moment. Or the moment comes back and bite you in the ass!


IMG_6059 conv.jpeg
IMG_6060 conv.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,047
Location
Traverse city
Elvis and Indian walked into a bar...
View attachment 446134 View attachment 446135 View attachment 446136 View attachment 446137 View attachment 446138 View attachment 446140 View attachment 446141
The NOS number 5 Talon failed me this morning. I had these happen before. The old zips needs extra love when starting the zip. If the pin doesn't go in all the way at the start, this happens. I've also freaked out about it before and done more unnecessary damage. Best is to just pull the jacket together at the bottom end and slowly move the zip down, one teeth at a time. Whew...
Happened on my RMC too. Had to go to Great Leathers.
 

Kalmer

One of the Regulars
Messages
211
I think it's an old zip thing. Which I am ok with.
The old teeth and the pin are done differently than the modern zips. Size somewhat matters but I think the tech of the zips has upgraded a lot since the 50s.

FWIW, I like the NOS boxy Talon Aero uses. I like my zip pulls a little chubby. More to grab onto. But the old metal are tired after all the years. Which I am ok with.

I also don't think the modern 10s can fit into their jackets the Aero way (tucked all the way in), there is no room for the wider teeth. Which is why they are hesitant to do it I believe.

The best zips are the Mi USA ones that Langlitz and Johnson uses. But these are modern zips. The modern male pin have two more bumps for the female end to grab onto now. Teeth are different too. The modern female receptical are also more forgiving, it will take the pin in (all the way) even when only half inserted. This is where the old ones failed.

With any old zips, one has to be very careful at the begining. The male pin needs to go all the way in. If not, then the zip has a high chance or failing. I take it this is how old things teachs us to slow down, and enjoy the moment. Or the moment comes back and bite you in the ass!

View attachment 446216 View attachment 446217

Could we see a full picture of your contrast-stitched blue jacket underneath pleeeease?
Is it the same jacket that langlitz posted on their IG account?
 

abu_abunai

New in Town
Messages
6
Hello again folks.

I took a year out as I was buying/lusting too much.
This approach sadly only worked for a short while...

It's finally been cold enough to wear leather, i thought I would share my birthday purchase.
Got to say I am chuffed with it.

If you had told me a couple of years ago I would be wearing a leather shirt, I would have laughed. TFL effect in full force.

Y'2 leather horsehide western shirt/jacket View attachment 445344 View attachment 445345 View attachment 445346
Damn nice shirt. Any details on the make and sizing?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,231
Messages
3,031,581
Members
52,699
Latest member
Bergsma112
Top