Winter jacket advice

[Rick Dalton]

Hello everyone,

I’ve been enjoying reading through the threads here and learning a lot from the community. For warmer days, I already own a Cal Leathers CHP, which I’m very happy with — great cut, excellent quality, and a perfect fit for my needs.

Now I’m looking for something quite different: a jacket in a classic brown/light brown/ camel, suitable for colder weather, and based on designs from before 1950. Ideally, it would have that timeless vintage character but still be reasonably affordable — I’m on a budget, so high-end originals are out of reach.

If anyone has suggestions for models, brands, or reproduction makers that fit the bill, I’d greatly appreciate it. Photos, links, or even historical references would be fantastic.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,
Rick

 

[TartuWolf]

Good luck finding your "winner" jacket
"Ideally, it would have that timeless vintage character but still be reasonably affordable" - this is also gold.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Good luck finding your "winner" jacket
"Ideally, it would have that timeless vintage character but still be reasonably affordable" - this is also gold.

Wow thanks

 

[Zoro]

What does "winter" mean? How cold does it get? Does it rain a lot? Snow? Windy?

 

[jchance]

Leather or non-leather?

For non-leather, goose-filling is very warm. 1960s Eddie Bauer Kara Koram, for example.

For leather, shearling-lining B3 and B6 are pretty warm. B6 is lighter than B3.

 

[jeepTj98]

Honestly, my warmest jacket I have is my schott perfecto. Yes it is a so called biker jacket but I’ve been wearing one since the 1980’s, annd many people wore them in the 1950’s too… insulated and with a t shirt, I can wear it like that until it gets below 20 degrees. Then I throw on a sweat shirt and wear it all winter long. Schott makes a great high quality jacket and if you are patient, you can find one used for just under $300.

 

[handymike]

I’d go with a Mackinaw Jeep Coat. A Duffle Coat is a classic too.

 

[Peter Mackin]

Schott wool peacoat ,,,

 

[Doctor Death]

I think the OP is looking for a center zip. He's already got the Cal CHP, which I assume is assymetric zip. So something pre 1950's vintage vibe.

Could go for something like this Californian from ELMC: https://www.elmc.co/jackets/550-californian-american-walnut.html Which is expensive, but maybe something similar.

 

[Doctor Death]

"something quite different" suitable for colder weather: Could also get an A2 in brown, eh? CockpitUSA, Gibson & Barnes

 

[handymike]

I guess the OP should clarify if he’s looking for another leather jacket or a warm—winter coat.

 

[zebedee]

Hello everyone,

I’ve been enjoying reading through the threads here and learning a lot from the community. For warmer days, I already own a Cal Leathers CHP, which I’m very happy with — great cut, excellent quality, and a perfect fit for my needs.

Now I’m looking for something quite different: a jacket in a classic brown/light brown/ camel, suitable for colder weather, and based on designs from before 1950. Ideally, it would have that timeless vintage character but still be reasonably affordable — I’m on a budget, so high-end originals are out of reach.

If anyone has suggestions for models, brands, or reproduction makers that fit the bill, I’d greatly appreciate it. Photos, links, or even historical references would be fantastic.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best regards,
Rick

If you’re looking for wool, then a pea coat in a heavier melton wool will work well, keeping the wind out and having a large collar - you can find pea coats at &sons that are very good. The lined Pioneer jacket is also great in the cold.

In terms of leather, Aero’s 1920 Work Coat lined in melton wool is a good winter coat. The Stockman is also great. You can find used Schott leather and wool coats all over Ebay.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Thank you everyone for both leather and non-leather options (recommendations). There are many jackets I didn’t even know existed (Jeep coat, etc.). It’s great that most Fedora users genuinely want to help fellow, less-experienced vintage style enthusiasts.
I’m not gonna lie — I really like the B-3 and B-6 options (so probably the most expensive of all). I remember having a shearling jacket handmade in Malta, but it ripped massively across the sleeve. It wasn’t the real B-3 design though — more civilian (a modernised version, I think). I also remember a picture of a B-3 I think I really liked (it was Tom Hardy a couple of years ago) — I thought that the original design looked really cool.

I wonder if there are good B-3 or B-6 more-or-less affordable options. I know about 5 Star, but I would love to know if there are some used budget options. The Cal Leathers I have was spot on — original, great condition, but affordable as well. I can’t thank enough Monitor and JMax for the advice they provided!

 

[jchance]

Thank you everyone for both leather and non-leather options (recommendations). There are many jackets I didn’t even know existed (Jeep coat, etc.). It’s great that most Fedora users genuinely want to help fellow, less-experienced vintage style enthusiasts.
I’m not gonna lie — I really like the B-3 and B-6 options (so probably the most expensive of all). I remember having a shearling jacket handmade in Malta, but it ripped massively across the sleeve. It wasn’t the real B-3 design though — more civilian (a modernised version, I think). I also remember a picture of a B-3 I think I really liked (it was Tom Hardy a couple of years ago) — I thought that the original design looked really cool.
View attachment 722727
I wonder if there are good B-3 or B-6 more-or-less affordable options. I know about 5 Star, but I would love to know if there are some used budget options. The Cal Leathers I have was spot on — original, great condition, but affordable as well. I can’t thank enough Monitor and JMax for the advice they provided!

The Few (RMC New Zealand) made really good B-3/B-6 shearling leather jackets, you can find some affordable ones on JP sites. That’s what they were known for.

 

[Zoro]

A thread on B3s from a few years ago, plenty of pics and options in it - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buying-a-b3.102883/

 

[Edward]

Thank you everyone for both leather and non-leather options (recommendations). There are many jackets I didn’t even know existed (Jeep coat, etc.). It’s great that most Fedora users genuinely want to help fellow, less-experienced vintage style enthusiasts.
I’m not gonna lie — I really like the B-3 and B-6 options (so probably the most expensive of all). I remember having a shearling jacket handmade in Malta, but it ripped massively across the sleeve. It wasn’t the real B-3 design though — more civilian (a modernised version, I think). I also remember a picture of a B-3 I think I really liked (it was Tom Hardy a couple of years ago) — I thought that the original design looked really cool.
View attachment 722727
I wonder if there are good B-3 or B-6 more-or-less affordable options. I know about 5 Star, but I would love to know if there are some used budget options. The Cal Leathers I have was spot on — original, great condition, but affordable as well. I can’t thank enough Monitor and JMax for the advice they provided!

Hardy wears that one well, though it's a civilian jacket with a military inspiration rather than a true B3 or similar. The giveaway is the combination of a USAAF B3 style collar with a front-belt as seen on the RAF Irvins (B3s had side-buckles), and the presence of handwarmer pockets. The only military shearling jackets I've seen from the mid-20th century era were the USAAF B6 and D1 jackets, which were smaller and trimmer than this. At a guess, I'd say Hardy's jacket is probably an Aviation Leathercraft (despite being the only maker of a jacket that bears the original trdemark name Irvin, they don't produce an accurate repro), a Cirrus, or similar. Nothing wrong with those; on the contrary, they are excellent jackets, just not the sort of accurate reproductions we tend to favour in these parts.

If I was going for a leather Winter coat as an 'only' Winter jacket, I'd probably look more into something like the Aero Barnstormer. Long enough to cover yer hindquarters, which can sometimes be welcome, and more to the point will cover fully a suit jacket / blazer, if you dress that way (I do) and find the look of a top-layer being shorter than what's under it aesthetically displeasing. The Barnstormer is available in a shearling lined version for extremes of cold, or the regular version can be quilt or blanket lined.

 

[Rick Dalton]

Hardy wears that one well, though it's a civilian jacket with a military inspiration rather than a true B3 or similar. The giveaway is the combination of a USAAF B3 style collar with a front-belt as seen on the RAF Irvins (B3s had side-buckles), and the presence of handwarmer pockets. The only military shearling jackets I've seen from the mid-20th century era were the USAAF B6 and D1 jackets, which were smaller and trimmer than this. At a guess, I'd say Hardy's jacket is probably an Aviation Leathercraft (despite being the only maker of a jacket that bears the original trdemark name Irvin, they don't produce an accurate repro), a Cirrus, or similar. Nothing wrong with those; on the contrary, they are excellent jackets, just not the sort of accurate reproductions we tend to favour in these parts.

If I was going for a leather Winter coat as an 'only' Winter jacket, I'd probably look more into something like the Aero Barnstormer. Long enough to cover yer hindquarters, which can sometimes be welcome, and more to the point will cover fully a suit jacket / blazer, if you dress that way (I do) and find the look of a top-layer being shorter than what's under it aesthetically displeasing. The Barnstormer is available in a shearling lined version for extremes of cold, or the regular version can be quilt or blanket lined.

Amazing analysis of Hardy’s jacket! Thank you. The Aviation Leathercraft Cirrus looks great – even though it’s not an exact repro of the original, it feels like it could have been designed in that bygone era – a rare achievement. I just wish I could scout a used one in my size. A longer jacket is for sure the more practical choice, but I can’t help myself – I’ve really been drawn lately to these shorter, sort of “V-shaped” jackets. That said, your suggestion of a longer option – the Aero Barnstormer – really does look cool. I don’t know, there’s just something about it… you’ve got great taste!

 

[MrProper]

If you are interested in shearling, I can only say: top.

To whet your appetite even further, perhaps this thread will help: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/show-your-shearling.115809/

Unfortunately, cheap and good shearling jackets are rare. Maybe it's worth saving up for a high-quality one. And of course keep an eye on the classifieds and other sources.

Fivestar shearling would be an option if they were really cheap. But they really aren't (any more). And the quality isn't good enough for that. The leather is thin and the fur is not dense enough. So I wouldn't buy them again.

I had read something about https://www.noble-house.eu/index.php?cl=start&lang=1 from time to time. I've just had a look, but they're no longer a bargain either.

If you like V-shape, then a standard size is almost out of the question in my opinion, because most of them tend to go straight down.

Personally, I think the Irvin and D-1 are the coolest.
Good luck with your search

 

[RDS]

If you’re looking for wool, then a pea coat in a heavier melton wool will work well, keeping the wind out and having a large collar - you can find pea coats at &sons that are very good. The lined Pioneer jacket is also great in the cold.

In terms of leather, Aero’s 1920 Work Coat lined in melton wool is a good winter coat. The Stockman is also great. You can find used Schott leather and wool coats all over Ebay.

While a peacoat is a good choice for a non-leather winter coat kersey wool is far superior to melton.
If you can handle and compare original US Navy peacoats made from both types of material you’ll see that kersey wins out every time.
In fact, although the US Navy changed the specification for their peacoats to melton wool in the 80’s (probably for reasons of cost) these later coats had to also have an additional liner inserted to help improve their thermal properties.

 

[l0fielectronic]

Thank you everyone for both leather and non-leather options (recommendations). There are many jackets I didn’t even know existed (Jeep coat, etc.). It’s great that most Fedora users genuinely want to help fellow, less-experienced vintage style enthusiasts.
I’m not gonna lie — I really like the B-3 and B-6 options (so probably the most expensive of all). I remember having a shearling jacket handmade in Malta, but it ripped massively across the sleeve. It wasn’t the real B-3 design though — more civilian (a modernised version, I think). I also remember a picture of a B-3 I think I really liked (it was Tom Hardy a couple of years ago) — I thought that the original design looked really cool.
View attachment 722727
I wonder if there are good B-3 or B-6 more-or-less affordable options. I know about 5 Star, but I would love to know if there are some used budget options. The Cal Leathers I have was spot on — original, great condition, but affordable as well. I can’t thank enough Monitor and JMax for the advice they provided!

Just for info, the Jacket Tom Hardy is in here was by Cockpit USA, I only remember this because the badly run Belstaff social accounts were forever tagging it as theirs and posting this photo a couple of years ago and linking to a completely different looking jacket on their website...

Has the OP considered an N1 Deck Jacket? If they like the shearing type look its kind of there. Warm jackets and a couple of very good budget options out there.