Belfastboy,
Yes, the BB Panamas while pricey are good quality. I have a selection of 6 Panamas (but none from Brent Black). All are Fino fino quality or Super fino. These grades look great from 4' away and it is only on closer inspection can you see the difference. I don't think Brent Black in Medford has a store front (unless that has changed).l I have one from NorthWest Hats a bit further up the road in Eugene. Mike brings in the blanks and does the finishing work himself. Great leather sweats, vintage ribbon. I paid $385 for mine. It is a great hat. I have a $300 from Panama Hats Direct. The weave is good but I had to reblock/reflange the hat, It came with a cloth sweat and he glues his ribbons on (sacrilege!!!).
I would bet the Panama from NWHats would be at least the equal to the Optimo. Of course you won't have the braggin' rights that an Optimo comes with the hat, but you will get a great hat for about 1/2 the price. I have a shipment of Panamas on order from Ecuador that should come in this month. Have not set my price until I can see the shipping/taxes/duties etc and thus know my costing.
Two other red flags with the Truffaux hats...they don't state leather sweat bands and the fact they only come in generic s, m, l, xl sizes. To me a good hat should always come exactly sized. I will never buy a hat that is supposed to fit a range of sizes....makes zero sense unless it is an adjustable ball cap.
This is where it is important to get clear on the how/why. A panama hat will get stained if you sweat even with a leather sweat band. It is just how it is. I have multiple Panamas for that reason. I don't wear my $600 one for doing heavy sweating activities.....I do 'save' it for real dress occasions.
I've asked Truffaux about the sweat bands, also about sizing. I also sent a note to NW Hats in Eugene as they seem like a viable (and much closer) option.
I have about 10 of Mike's hats; fur felts and a Panama. He is a great hatter and a great guy. It is always a treat to pop in and chat. You will be treated well. Tell him Robert Gault sent you. Phone first to make sure he has his Panama blanks in stock.
I've seen references of a grade, as well as discussions of weave density, as well as a "fino fino" which I take to be "really nice". I've yet to find any even qualitative description of what the terms mean.
A number of Panama hat sellers. (Panama Hats Direct) give explanations on their websites. They will list the number of knots per linear inch or square inch and attach a name to it. But the consistency between makers is inconsistent. It is best to ask for that number and then you have an exact comparison. The price is related to the weave grade as the tighter the weave the longer it takes to make. Brent Black has museum quality pieces at $25,000+. A weave so fine the hat resembles a fine linen weave.
I sent Mike an inquiry form on his website yesterday--no response, yet. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Truffaux--a relatively inexpensive coarse-weave diamond traveller hat figuring it's a way to dip my toe in the water for not-too-much money and see how I like it for golf, etc.
Did you speak to them about sizing? I am always suspicious at any hat listed as s,m,l etc. It often is a crap shoot whether it fits or not.
Yes. I ordered an XL, but he said he would select a 60 for me based on my head circumference of 59.4 cm +/- ~0.2 cm (23 3/8" +/- 1/8") depending on how tight the tape is. My head size seems to be at the upper end of a 7 3/8, so a 60 that shrinks a bit should be just right. He also ships adhesive foam blocks to insert in the back between the sweatband and the hat to make the hat fit snuggly initially, then blocks can be removed as the hat shrinks to size.
A sweat band replacement will be about $40, $20 if you do it yourself.
I sent Mike an inquiry form on his website yesterday--no response, yet. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Truffaux--a relatively inexpensive coarse-weave diamond traveller hat figuring it's a way to dip my toe in the water for not-too-much money and see how I like it for golf, etc.
