1920s - fashion with fun, whimsy and chic

[Mrs. Merl]

LaMedicine - such interesting information. You seem very knowledgeable! I wish I had such extensive information for an upcoming kimono project. I would be interested to hear more on the subject of kimono fabrics and such. Perhaps you could direct me to some good informational sources.

 

[texasgirl]

Here are a couple hats I think are lovely from Woodland Farms- both are sold though- but they are currently having a sale

C.1920S Black wool felt cloche with black velvet band with red fox fur behind and below. At the fornt of the cloche is a amber rhinestone applique over the velvet and fur.

C.1920S Wide brim cloche in black and peach velvet with black lace appliques on the wide brim. The crown and under brim are black velvet and the top of the wide brim is peach velvet. The name on the black silk lining is More Worth Co

And here are the two 1920s hats I have in my collection from Vintage Martini

A mid to late turban style cloche in a burgundy satin and velvet

A 20s straw cloche. Has a crease down the middle- not sure if it's from storing flat, or it's supposed to be there? Any thoughts?

 

[Mojito]

La Medicine, I always learn so much from your posts!

I'll tell my friend that her dress fabric looks like kimono fabric...she'll be so thrilled! It's a modern dress by a designer greatly influenced by Asian textiles...whose name escapes me at the moment, but who does fantastic vintage influenced outfits. That one has a particular 20s vibe with the waistline, but other pieces look 30s and 40s. I'll post the name when I can find it - she has a few boutiques, including one in the Queen Victoria Building. My curvier friends tell me she's one of the few designers who designs well plus size as well as she does smaller sizes.

Texasgirl, nice hats! I still haven't photographed the Vintage Martini bicorn and capeline...got caught up doing my tax return last night, but I'll try to get some images later today.

 

[LaMedicine]

A 20s straw cloche. Has a crease down the middle- not sure if it's from storing flat, or it's supposed to be there? Any thoughts?

I think the crease is for folding the hat in half and then rolling it up so it can be stored/carried. There was a thread waaaaay back on such hats, but it's quite a few years back, so I couldn't find the thread in a cursory search, sorry.

 

[Mojito]

Checked the name of the shop, La Medicine - it's Nobue. Apparently the designer is Japanese, and sources her textiles from Japan. The shop was closed when I went past it early this morning, but I'm going to pop in there in the next few weeks - her dresses are so lovely.

I agree on Texagirl's hat - hopefully the crease will steam out easily. There's a similar crease on pink cloche I posted earlier, due to storing flat.

Haven't had a chance to get out the camera - I'll try to do it this weekend.

 

[LaMedicine]

Nobue is a female Japanese name.
If she sources her fabrics from Japan, then it's likely that at least some of the fabrics like those of your friend's dress, are vintage/antique kimono fabrics. There are pattern books here for making western clothes from kimonos.

 

[Miss Sis]

I wouldn't steam out the crease - I'm pretty sure it's meant to be there. It doesn't look like a storage crease and it was a feature of some hats from the period, both mens and womens. Think of Panama type hats for example.

I have just remembered I have a few 20s things which I might be able to contribute to the thread. Must get batteries for my camera.

 

[LaMedicine]

Found the hat thread I was looking for.
Check out the first post and pics.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=1484

 

[texasgirl]

Thanks for all the help ladies! That link is quite interesting! Thanks!!!

 

[Mojito]

I wouldn't steam out the crease - I'm pretty sure it's meant to be there. It doesn't look like a storage crease and it was a feature of some hats from the period, both mens and womens. Think of Panama type hats for example.

I have just remembered I have a few 20s things which I might be able to contribute to the thread. Must get batteries for my camera.

That's very intereing, Miss Sis - thank you! I've seen creases going across the crown in illustrations of the period, but not down the middle (except for those that were stored flat) - horrified to think that I'd give advice to steam out an intentional crease!

Looking forward to seeing your photos!

 

[VivaciousLady]

Those dresses are just beautiful... I love 1920s fashion so much!
My favorite designer of the era has to be Lanvin ...

Not a very great picture, but an example of the beautiful dresses that are in this fashion book I have

 

[Mojito]

Lanvin is possibly my favourite designer of the era as well, Vivacious Lady (although it's difficult to choose). I don't own any of her work from the 20s, but I do have one of her gowns from 1932 that looks almost transitional. The robe de style in that photo is lovely - I'll look for some other examples. Do you have the magnificently illustrated book by Dean Merceron? It's gorgeous - I particularly love the concept sketches juxtaposed with extant examples of the final gown. And the collection of textiles she derived inspiration from is to die for.

 

[Mojito]

Robe de Style illustration and dress La Cavallini, 1925:

Robe de Style sold by Antique Dress:

 

[VivaciousLady]

Lanvin

Mojito, I don't have that Dean Merceron book -- the one where I first saw her dresses was the Kyoto Fashion book. I'm gonna have to look it up though; I just love preliminary sketches vs. the final results. Please excuse my drool, especially over the last dress! lol They are gorgeous! You are so lucky to own one-- I can only dream!

Here are three more simply phenomenal Lanvin dresses...

Sorry for the overload...

PS: Is that the official name of these types of 20s dresses -- robe de style?

 

[Mojito]

Those are stunning, VivaciousLady! I've had the Kyoto book recommended to me before, but still haven't bought it...it's the next big book purchase on my list after the large format Vionnet tome.

They were commonly known as a Robe de Style or Picture Dress, and while not as popular as the shift or chemise sillouette was the other major form of the decade. Lanvin is credited with introducing the style c. 1915. I noticed an interesting comment from Erte in Harper's Bazar some time around the late teens suggesting that he had been advocating the "bouffant" look for some seasons...I'll have to dig it out and scan the sketch it accompanied.

I still haven't organised the photograph, but here's a lace dress I realise I left off the earlier lace section (apols for more than ordinary amount of affectation in the pose - we'd had a few cocktails at that point. And that's not a wig I'm wearing, appearances to the contrary!) The underslip is original, and gives you an idea of the contrast that was so popular in the era:

Here's an evening cloche that looks great with it - not my photo (it's from the Sydney Vintage Clothing Fair, where I bought it), and it's been given a bit more of 30s angle in the photo...I'll get a close up later of the gold bullion/chenille detailing:

 

[LaMedicine]

Kyoto Costume Institute

VivaciousLady and Mojito, you two caught my attention by throwing around the word Kyoto, and did some searching. The books you two are talking about were edited by the Kyoto Costume Institute, I take it. You can see some of their collections (I say some, because the site states they have over 11,000 in their collection and have only 200) up in their digital archive. The institute is sponsored by Wacoal, the largest Japanese lingerie maker headquartered in Kyoto.
What's interesting to me it that western clothes are collected extensively in Kyoto, and that it seems their collection is respected enough by the fashion industry to have many great Paris maisons donate their clothes. Kyoto after all, is the sronghold of traditional Japanese cothes and fabric industry.

 

[newtovintage]

Absolutely Stunning!

Ladies all of your dresses are AMAZING! I love them. To think that you actually own a piece of history. I almost wish that I could wear dresses from the 20's, but it would never work. Anyhow, I just wanted to drop a line and say the I love this thread. It shows off your beautiful 20's collections and is very informative too. FABULOUS!
Sarah

 

[Mojito]

Thank you, NewtoVintage - there is a very tactile sense of touching history with some of these pieces. And even if the general mode of the decade doesn't suit you, there are all those fabulous accessories if you choose to indulge!

LaMedicine, the Kyoto Costume Institute is one collection I would *so* love to peruse...I've visited the Met, the V&A and the Bath costume museum and loved what they had on display, but I get the impression that the Kyoto collection is arguably the best in the world! Given the influences on Japanese design both in costume and interior design in the teens and twenties, I'd love to see what pieces they have that show an Eastern influence filtered through Western perceptions. My friend has just bought a fascinating teens/20s dress that's a bit difficult to place...it looks to me like it has a good deal of Poiret to its design, but one thing is certain - the cherry blossom design (white embroidered on white - monochromatic, subtle and lovely) must owe a lot to Japanese influences!

 

[Mojito]

More cloches...

Some more hats - the first sits quite high on the forehead, so late 20s - very early 30s:

Going earlier in the decade, this is a late teens - early 20s bicorn:

A capeline with a very interesting brim:

And finally, a velvet cloche with some intense embroidery in silk thread and chenille:

Worn with a very non-vintage outfit on a celebratory occasion because it looks like fireworks:

We haven't put up many fringed dresses yet! That's sort of the elephant in the room when you're talking 1920s...I'll move on to that next.

 

[Miss Sis]

Nice hats, Mojito. I especially like the last one with all that fab embroidery and beautiful colours (hmmmmmm, embroidery........)

Of course we'll look forward to the fringed dresses too, but it's nice to see all the other styles that were around. Fringed dresses have just become the ONLY style many people think of when they hear 1920s and a terrible 'costume' cliche.

When I learnt a Charleston with my ballet class many moons ago, all our costumes had beautiful handkerchief hemlines. We didn't want fringed dresses. It was one of my favourite costumes I've ever had. My mother made it out of a deep peach satin with palest green, peach and olive chiffon for the skirt. It was a great colour combination. Rather of the period, I thought.