Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

"A Gentleman Does Not Wear a Straw Hat in the Metropolis, sir"

Dinerman

Super Moderator
Bartender
Messages
10,562
Location
Bozeman, MT
Boaters were extremely common, in the city, country and everywhere in between, in the early part of the 20th century. They were not so much the hat of leisure or of frivolity, they were *the* hat. If you walked into a hat shop in the 1920s and asked for a straw hat, you would be handed a boater. Think of them as the straw equivalent of the derby.

1900
4a08406a.jpg


1916
07033a.jpg


1921
21980u.jpg


1924
SHORPY_26132u.jpg


1925
27449u.jpg


Dearborn, 1941
8a32751u_0.jpg
 
Last edited:

Cobden

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
Oxford, UK
I think some people are missing an important word, with rather rigid connotations in pre WWII Britain: Gentlemen.

It's not being used in the sense that one uses it on a toilet door, but to mean what would now be described as upper-middle to upper class (depending on ones definition). Plenty of men wore boaters in the city. Plenty of men wore all-black suits in the UK. Plenty of men wore brown shoes outside of the countryside. But the social strata of the time determined that men, like Mr Wooster, of the gentry ought not to. Dress was another element of British "know ones place" mentality of the time. As we no longer live in such an era, it is perfectly ignorable.
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
753
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
I agree, Cobden - when we say that it was considered bad taste for Berty Wooster to wear a boater in the city, we are not talking about what would have been acceptable in New York, Chicago or pretty much any city in the world. We're talking about what was considered proper for a very particular strata of English society to wear specifically in the heart of London.
 
Both characters were of course pastiche. The absurdity is that many take Jeeves to be an accurate reflection of the more general "proper" attitudes of the day. Jeeves was a fogey, a fuddy duddy, so far behind the times and so far up his own arse as to be a clinical absurdity. Wooster was a flanneur, a wannabe socialite with the cash but not the brains or grace to really succeed, who thought himself so far ahead of the times as to be a clinical absurdity. It's this juxtaposition of essentially sweet, harmless, absurdities that make the books so enjoyable. But taking them seriously as a matter of etiquette record, that's quite another thing entirely. You might as well cite Saki as a reliable and non-exaggerating chronicler of society parties …

Jeeves in Wodehouse's stories of course is supposed to be the antithesis of Wooster's expressions of dandification. Each of Wodehouse's juxtapositions of Jeeves high sense of appropriateness and Wooster's touch of dandification ultimately leads to situations where Wooster, from Jeeves point of view, is making a complete fool of himself. Consider the case of the mess jacket or the "Alpine Joe" hat in the Laurie/ Fry TV series.
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
Both characters were of course pastiche. The absurdity is that many take Jeeves to be an accurate reflection of the more general "proper" attitudes of the day. Jeeves was a fogey, a fuddy duddy, so far behind the times and so far up his own arse as to be a clinical absurdity. Wooster was a flanneur, a wannabe socialite with the cash but not the brains or grace to really succeed, who thought himself so far ahead of the times as to be a clinical absurdity. It's this juxtaposition of essentially sweet, harmless, absurdities that make the books so enjoyable. But taking them seriously as a matter of etiquette record, that's quite another thing entirely. You might as well cite Saki as a reliable and non-exaggerating chronicler of society parties …


Well put, Baron.
 

-30-

A-List Customer
Messages
443
Location
TORONTO, CANADA
"Jeeves was a fogey, a fuddy duddy, so far behind the times and so far up his own arse as to be a clinical absurdity."
QUOTE: Baron Kurtz.

Be careful for what you wish.


Regards,
J T
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,796
Location
London, UK
I think some people are missing an important word, with rather rigid connotations in pre WWII Britain: Gentlemen.

It's not being used in the sense that one uses it on a toilet door, but to mean what would now be described as upper-middle to upper class (depending on ones definition). Plenty of men wore boaters in the city. Plenty of men wore all-black suits in the UK. Plenty of men wore brown shoes outside of the countryside. But the social strata of the time determined that men, like Mr Wooster, of the gentry ought not to. Dress was another element of British "know ones place" mentality of the time. As we no longer live in such an era, it is perfectly ignorable.

Quite...

Both characters were of course pastiche. The absurdity is that many take Jeeves to be an accurate reflection of the more general "proper" attitudes of the day. Jeeves was a fogey, a fuddy duddy, so far behind the times and so far up his own arse as to be a clinical absurdity. Wooster was a flanneur, a wannabe socialite with the cash but not the brains or grace to really succeed, who thought himself so far ahead of the times as to be a clinical absurdity. It's this juxtaposition of essentially sweet, harmless, absurdities that make the books so enjoyable. But taking them seriously as a matter of etiquette record, that's quite another thing entirely. You might as well cite Saki as a reliable and non-exaggerating chronicler of society parties …

That's a bingo.
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
In different ways, both Jeeves and Wooster are representatives of what is socially acceptable and fashionable. That is to say, Bertie, the gentleman, is at least as capable a spokesperson for "what a gentleman wears in the metropolis" as Jeeves, the gentleman's gentleman. The very fact that Bertie wears a straw hat in the city means that gentlemen wear straw hats in the city. There is no reason to privilege Jeeves's judgment.

Part of the point of the stories is that the servant is much smarter than the master. But a point in Bertie's favor is that Jeeves always hates Bertie's hat when it is at the height of fashion. Jeeves's tastes in clothing are conservative; his sense of what is done and what is not done may be twenty years out of date.

I think the real lesson of this episode is that there are disagreements about etiquette. There isn't just one set of rules for what a gentleman wears and how he behaves. Jeeves has a set of rules, and Bertie (who famously follows a code) has another set of rules. The two men have different social positions and different aesthetic ideals, but both can claim expertise on the subject of gentlemanlike behavior.

Etiquette is a mysterious thing, both in the golden era and today.

A great analysis. concise, thoughtful, and well written. In short, a real pleasure to read. I'm guessing author, Lit major, or Lit student?


"Faint hat never won fair lady."
 

jhe888

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
Texas, United States
I recall a similar passage over a white Tuxedo.

That was Bertie's white mess jacket with brass buttons, which Jeeves thought appropriate for a waiter, or, perhaps, a naval officer.

There were similar contretemps between them over the length of Bertie's short trousers, fedoras (again, not thought to be appropriate for the city) and once, when finding monogrammed handkerchiefs in Bertie's dresser, Jeeves reported; "Sir, there are objects in your armoire."

And indeed, the joke is set up between Bertie's fecklessness which is accented by his adventurous sense of fashion, and Jeeves' super-competence which is signalled by his old-fashioned ideas of propriety in dress and manners. Jeeves, of course, always got his way.

Wodehouse was also satirizing both segments of society.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
107,315
Messages
3,033,852
Members
52,770
Latest member
green_entrails
Top