Another Newbie Question About Brims...

[MadDawg]

Can someone(s) educate me on the difference/purpose of a welted (both over and under) brim, a sewn brim, and a raw brim?? It seems to me that a majority of hats have the welted brim, but personally it make the hat look like a "costume hat." Please take no offense to that comment as having only seen costume style hats myself and never knowingly seen or felt a quality fur hat.

Is there a quality or functionality difference among the varieties of brim finish or is it strictly asthetic preference?

Maybe there is a "Fedora 101" web-site out there that gives more than just the history of the style??

Thanks, (this lounge is very addicting, great job!!) All that is missing is Leather Chairs and Single Malt Scotch!!

 

[zetwal]

Welcome See this thread -

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=5738&highlight=edges

 

[avedwards]

Wool felt hats invariably have welted edges as the material is not as dense as fur felt and therefore would fall apart easily otherwise. Costume hats are made of wool felt, hence you associated welted edges with costumes.

Welted edges can be seen on good quality fur felts as well. Bound edges are popular too because they look dressy and can strengthen the brim's shape.

Fur felt is dense enough to allow it to have a raw (untreated) edge, which is why this is the most common style on modern hats.

Vintage hats sometimes have a Cavanagh edge which is an edge which is turned over like a welt but felted on rather than stitched on, making it more costly but of higher quality. Modern Cavanaghs do not exist as they are not cost efficient for manufactueres.

Therefore, which sort of edge treatment you have is entirely up to your personal preference if you have a custom hat, or up to availability if you buy an off the rack hat.

 

[Dewhurst]

Can someone(s) educate me on the difference/purpose of a welted (both over and under) brim, a sewn brim, and a raw brim?

All different ways of finishing the edge of a brim. Hemmed edges (welted), bound edges, whip-stitched edges (mostly considered a form or raw edge), and outright raw edges are primarily aesthetic, as you wagered. In a snap-brim hat the edge can sometimes create a slightly different shape to the snap.

I am not aware of any difference in longevity of the hat or general durability.

Just depends on what you think looks nice. Hemmed edges are very snazzy, in my opinion. I like a raw edge, but very often want it to be whip-stitched or something for visual pleasure.