Double Helix Works?

[sshack]

Hugging the Curve, stock size 44, black semi aniline horsehide

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The measurements on the websit is based on the pulled measuring method.


What I think about this jacket:

1) Leather - is very thick, as thick as my heavyweight CXL FQHH, so at least 3.5oz or 1.5mm. But is as soft as the 3oz 1.2mm RMC Shinki. Feels waxy to the hand. I've never had a horsehide like this. I was expecting same as the other Tokyo brands but this stands out on its own. The hide is really nice.

Compared to the RMC Steinbeck half belt, steinbeck on top, hugging on bottom


2) Construction - can't complain, typical Japanese high end finishing. Same type of lining construction as RMC. The Hugging has an inside pocket, the RMC don't.

3) Fit - very, very similar to the RMC again. A bit longer in the front, made for untucked shirts. The forearm has a taper and can feel tight. The RMC fit pics here:

All the McCoys

I haven't really paid that much attention to RMC as a jacket maker, as I thought they mostly did military aviator reproductions, and I'm more of a motorcycle and car coat kind of guy, and they're very expensive, even used. I recently noticed a gorgeous two-tone MC jacket on yahoo japan, but too...

www.thefedoralounge.com

4) Price - the best part of this jacket. MSRP ¥173,800. With the two discounts code running everyweek on Rakuten, this jacket came in at ¥160,110, that's about £900, or $1,200. And as far as I can see, all the bigger sizes are the same prices, and they go up to 48, fits aquaman. The only other brand that consistently have bigger sizes is Y'2, all the rest of the Japanese brands don't usually stock anything over 42 in Japan.

One major negative, is the zipper. I almost broke the Hookless just by trying on. Some of them can be very finicky. I would say it's time for all repros to switch to ykk. It's fun to have a different zip, until it breaks, and replacement cost 150+, on top of an already expensive jacket.

That's all I've got. If you are shopping in this budget range or come across this jacket on the used market, it's worth to take a look.

How is the quality of the wool liner? Is it thick or thin? Scratchy? Does it make the jacket too warm to be worn year round? Would you prefer cotton liner? Thanks for any info!!!

 

[ton312]

I’m not telling anyone that he must follow fashion trends haha. I’m just saying that actually the fashion trends are the opposite of what many people on TFL assume.

Hold on bud. You saying my quick reference guide is wrong???

 

[Ulysse]

They certainly don't stack up to Freewheelers of course, but they seem decent enough. Quality seems good enough and the patterns aren't as awful as some of the new Japanese brands like Fountainhead or Fine Creek.

They're below Freewheelers and Rainbow Country tier as well as RMC tier, but above the other two I mentioned. I'd put them in Y2 tier- solid Japanese craftsmanship and good but not great patterns

I visited your website that compared leather jacket brands. You've done a great job, but you could update it and create a top 15 please, that would be really great

 

[Canuck Panda]

How is the quality of the wool liner? Is it thick or thin? Scratchy? Does it make the jacket too warm to be worn year round? Would you prefer cotton liner? Thanks for any info!!!

The wool feels like Loccharon "Tweed". So like the Strome weight Aero uses but with a brushed surface that feels like flannel. All wool can feel scratchy because of skin reaction to lanolin, but with a button shirt it doesn't feel scratchy at all for me.

You're in California right? Cotton will be better for you for sure.

Another thing is the leather feel. I learned a new word the other day, "gummy", that's what the leather feels like in the hands. Some leather feels waxy like touching a candle, some feels oily like touching butter, the DH leather feels gummy like touching a gummy bear, and soft like it, very different feel than the more rigid regular waxy Shinki.

The one on the left I know for sure is the Loccharon Tweed, and the right one (DH) feels very similar to it just different tweed design,