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History of the Belted back jacket?

skillbilly

One of the Regulars
Messages
162
Location
Alameda, CA (The Isle of Style)
I've seen some great example of this jacket both in the lounge and in film, which got me to thinking.
Does anyone know the history of this jacket?
When it first appeared?
How long was this trend lasted?
Was it considered to be more sportswear that business attire?

so many questions :)
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
It evolved from a style of coat known as the "Norfolk jacket", whose belt extended all the way around to the front. Around World War I(?), military jackets began to appear with half belts in the back. As WWI ended, manufacturers of civilian clothing began to offer sporty suits with belted-back jackets.

Here in the U.S.A., the style was popular throughout the 1920s and most of the '30s. By 1940, however, the belted back was disappearing from suits and sportcoats. It lasted for a while longer on gabardine "Hollywood" ("Ricky") jackets, then pretty much disappeared until the early '70s, when it popped up again on polyester sportcoats and suits. (Remember those nasty polyester "Angel's Flight" suits made by Levi Strauss?)

The belted-back jacket or suit was considered sporty attire. It could be worn to work by certain professionals (such as reporters and theatrical agents) and not by others (such as bankers and lawyers).


.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Well I think I might dissagree on bankers... well at least US bankers wearing belted back suits. Perhaps in the UK it would not be OK. In the US I can easily imagine a broker of banker sporting a pinstripe three piece to work behind a desk... late 30's West coast.


Too bad it's harder nowadays to find a good Norfolk suit. Back in the late 1800's they were pretty common even on the streets around town, though it was truly a sporting outfit, it caught on like the track suit with hip hoppers. Men riding Hi- Wheel bicycles and wearing norfolk suits... it must have been quite a sight.
 

Absinthe_1900

One Too Many
Messages
1,628
Location
The Heights in Houston TX
When advertising had some style:
ScreenShot001copy.jpg
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Marc Chevalier said:
Frankly, it would be considered eccentric and perhaps inappropriate. Even in the '30s, bankers would never wear belted-back jackets to work..

would that be more or less appropriate than jeans, trainers and t-shirt ?
i suppose we need to define what sort of workplace, but i can't imagine anyone today, even in the smartest environment objecting, unless they thought you were OVER-dressed.


Matt Deckard said:
Well I think I might dissagree on bankers... well at least US bankers wearing belted back suits. Perhaps in the UK it would not be OK. In the US I can easily imagine a broker of banker sporting a pinstripe three piece to work behind a desk... late 30's West coast.

belt-back suits were still categorised as 'sport clothes' so i think their use as business attire would have been very rare, if not as Marc suggests, non-existent.
 

Speedster

Practically Family
Messages
876
Location
60 km west of København
Marc Chevalier said:
If you're referring to the navy blue jacket with gold-colored buttons, then the answer is no. If you replace the brass buttons with navy blue or black plastic ones, then the answer is yes.


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Thanks. I was referring to the navy blue jacket with gold-coloured buttons. I am on the lookout for a Blazer and i like the belt-back style jackets.
 

Micawber

A-List Customer
Messages
395
Location
Great Britain.
I have several tweed belted back jackets that are part of sporting suits that I wear for shooting. The jackets also have belows 'action' shoulders to ease gun mount & swing.
 

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