Patch pockets with hidden seams?????

[Jingo Mastapone]

I'm looking at a jacket with patch pockets that are sewn on with the seam hidden inside the pocket. By that I mean that the edges of the pockets have been folded under the outer face and then that underfold has been stitched to the suit body, leaving the outer face of the pocket free of a seam. I might want to raise the pockets and I'm wondering how in the hell this trick was accomplished so that I may duplicate it. Does anyone know?

 

[Tomasso]

I'm looking at a jacket with patch pockets

It would help to see some photos of the jacket.

 

[Tailor Tom]

My little bit....

Sounds relatively simple, but its not. If a large-scale manufacturer is doing it, then they have a special jig for the sewing machine and the machine stitches around....and there you go.
It is pretty hard stuff. If I do it, I have to have the pocket marked all along the the sides and corners, curves, etc. It needs to be laid out exact. Then you start stitching at the top and sew down and around and through the first curve, across the bottom and then the second curve gets tricky and then you sew up and out of the pocket.

As for a company that makes them that way....no idea right now. But I will give it some thought.

 

[Jingo Mastapone]

Tailor Tom, do I understand you correctly: First you mark out the exact line of the pocket on the jacket where the seam will be, then you begin your seam at the top edge of the pocket with the pocket lying flat open to one side, inside facing out, and sew down and around, manipulating the whole mess to stay on the line, and as you round the first corner the pocket naturally begins to close up and by the second corner it's really closing up and making it hard to get in there and by the final stretch, your machine is practically inside the pocket?

If that's what you mean, I better go buy a bulk pack of seam rippers.

 

[Qirrel]

Tailor tom: Have you tried doing it from the inside by hand? Ive done this once, and found it much easier to do by first loosely stitching to pocket to the jacket from the outside, then back-stitching as normal from the inside, being careful to not to make the stitches show on the front of the pocket.

 

[Tailor Tom]

Thats it

Tailor Tom, do I understand you correctly: First you mark out the exact line of the pocket on the jacket where the seam will be, then you begin your seam at the top edge of the pocket with the pocket lying flat open to one side, inside facing out, and sew down and around, manipulating the whole mess to stay on the line, and as you round the first corner the pocket naturally begins to close up and by the second corner it's really closing up and making it hard to get in there and by the final stretch, your machine is practically inside the pocket?

If that's what you mean, I better go buy a bulk pack of seam rippers.

Yes, that is pretty much the idea behind it. Most companies that produce such things on a production line have specialized machinery, heads, jigs, etc.

As for stitching be hand from the back...It just wouldn't be as strong, nor as consistent as a machine stitch.