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Show us their suits

Discussion in 'Suits' started by Matt Deckard, Jul 19, 2006.

  1. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    That's what I meant. One could certainly differentiate between the big "style/tailoring schools" of that era: British, German, French, American. Other countries/regions largely followed one of them.
    The German school influenced most of continental Europe, particularly Eastern and South-Eastern Europe, in the South and South-West it more followed French trends.
    British style was eminent of course in the globe-spanning empire.

    Yet to tell the differences between a Polish, Bulgarian, German or Swedish suit becomes more complicated. Or a French and a Belgian suit. So we can't really speak of "national styles" but several influential international trends.
     
  2. PeterB

    PeterB One of the Regulars

    Fastuni, I stand corrected, or at least guided. The old "continental", "English" and "American" division might work, and possibly sub-groups between western Europe, dominated at least before WW2 by France, and Middle Europe, dominated possibly up to WW1 by Austria and after that from Germany. Like the German and Romanian styles on this forum. Educational for people like me, who are limited to US and English in their knowledge.
     
  3. Two Types

    Two Types I'll Lock Up

    The more we look at vintage clothing, the more there is to learn. I would to learn nore about the details of Eastern European tailoring. When I look at Russian photographs there seems to be a noticable difference between Russian suits and other European suits (with suits having a boxier cut than in other areas). But how far into Europe did the Russian influence go? I think you see the influence post-war but did it exist earlier?
     
  4. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Russian/Soviet tailoring certainly was also largely following the "German school".
    The 30' Munich tailoring periodical "Rundschau" showed a world map for international subscriptions for it's instructions and patterns.
    Moscow and Leningrad are among them (and all capitals of Eastern/S-Eastern Europe). I have to see whether I have the map.

    Looking at this post-war chart of Soviet style evolution, I'd say it clearly follows continental European trends until the war's end.
    A 1946/47 tailoring instruction for occupied Berlin mentioned that Russians prefer very wide trousers (60 cm foot width), shoulders and lapels
    at a time when French/British/German tailoring was already going for tapered more narrow ankled trousers and narrower lapels.
    The Russians also liked very long coats at that time.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Samarov, Cheremnykh: "Model und Design Menswear" 1949
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
  5. Photos of Russian civilians pre-1950s are so rare compared to other countries (online).
    And I've never seen a vintage Russian suit.
    I suspect 'vintage' isn't something that is very valued in Russia.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
  6. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    The particularly dire era from the 1920's to the 1950's certainly saw most suits/clothes first worn to rags and then recycled into shoddy wool blends (both under Soviet and wartime German rule).
    I'm sure not much has survived... and probably there was not much interest to preserve the little that has survived.
     
  7. And yet in Germany, gutted by aerial bombings, quite a few things seem to have survived, well looked after.

    In searching for Russian photos, of course the language barrier is an issue.
    The best source I have found for historical photos of everyday life in the Soviet Union in English, aptly named
    http://englishrussia.com/

    Postwar, 1940s-1950s:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
  9. Probably a sport coat rather than a suit, but H.L. Mencken's bulky, tweedy jacket in this photo epitomizes the 'man of letters' aesthetic to me.

    Mencken.jpg
     
  10. Fastuni

    Fastuni Call Me a Cab

    Germany 1935. A group photo of the Finkenwalde preachers seminary.
    The balding guy with glasses and knit vest to the left, middle row, is Dietrich Bonhoeffer.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015
  11. Not quite movie stars, but still impeccably dressed, here's a photo I came across online of two factory workers in the 1930's.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015
  12. Great photos chaps. Thanks for posting.

    Here is something different: Postwar Germany
    [​IMG]

    I find those closed toe sandals quite fetching. I saw a similar pair worn in Ossessione... with a pinstriped suit! :cool:[huh]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. (most likely) British, single link-button:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. CONELRAD

    CONELRAD One of the Regulars

    Boogie woogie piano man Roosevelt Sykes, circa 1930.

    RooseveltSykes.jpg
     
  15. Awesome. the 30s will always reign supreme as the most stylish decade in my opinion. That's perfection right there.
     
  16. APP Adrian

    APP Adrian A-List Customer

    I agree, when everything was built to last.
     
  17. volvomeister13

    volvomeister13 One of the Regulars

    When you consider that these guys were factory workers in the 1930's and compare their attire to the dreck worn by of multi-billionaires today (I'm looking at you, you Silicon Valley slobs!), it's clear modern society is doing something very wrong.
     
  18. APP Adrian

    APP Adrian A-List Customer

    Overdressing is such a dumb word. I would rather look handsome wearing a suit, hat, and overcoat than be fashionable wearing an "OCBD", loafers, and chinos.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2015
  19. APP Adrian

    APP Adrian A-List Customer

    Not everything in modern culture is correct. Improper dress and business casual is not okay.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2015

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