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Apparel Annex leather tailors CHP jacket

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
This was a bit of an impulse buy online, i really like the single pocket flaps and the pocket layouts and it was pretty cheap so i took a gamble.
The jacket is mostly well made, other than the misaligned zipper at the bottom.
The leather is super thick (2mm) and super soft, It was pretty rough when i got it, but after cleaning and a couple coats of Pecard it feels great. It was sold as Horse, but it looks like cow/steer to me. It has a fully quilted liner with a hidden gun pocket on the left side, which has a gun shaped heavy cotton pocket bag.

The brand itself is a bit of a mystery, there are a few mentions online of it coming from Portland in the 60s and 70s, and going bust in the 80s but that is it, and it doesn't come from reliable sources. Any Information you might have is welcome.

It has a number on the brand tag (434-24) and a name (M.Gruber, maybe related to Hans?) and interestingly i have found a picture online of another label of theirs with a similar number on it (439-48) do they mean anything to anyone?

Pics:

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Fit pics:

Not sure if i am going to do something about the misaligned zipper, one side of me just wants to fix it and have it moved 1", the other part of me is saying "this is a jacket that is older than me, leave it as it is!"
I don't think it bothers me enough to take the risk...

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And this is the picture of the other numbered label i found:


GlwCWr8.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,151
Location
Chicago
Dude, I seriously love that thing!!! The fit is perfect! Man that hide is just beautiful. Man I'm stoked for mine! Awesome Carlos, I hope mine looks half that good!
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Dude, I seriously love that thing!!! The fit is perfect! Man that hide is just beautiful. Man I'm stoked for mine! Awesome Carlos, I hope mine looks half that good!

Thanks, feel free to post the info about yours on this thread if you want, so we keep it all in one place.
 
Messages
16,476
Great... Now this made me really want that Apparel Annex trucker!

This is one mighty jacket, Carlos! I just love it!!! Very unpretentious and practical design - though the french stitching, yoke and other details make it stand out. It's got that high quality vibe, like vtg. Langlitz. I especially dig the center slash pocket, seems to be really handy and easy to reach on a bike. By the look of it, someone with a lot of riding experience designed this jacket...

And it does seem to be a proper beast. Can't be that much lighter than the Chopper?
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Great... Now this made me really want that Apparel Annex trucker!

This is one mighty jacket, Carlos! I just love it!!! Very unpretentious and practical design - though the french stitching, yoke and other details make it stand out. It's got that high quality vibe, like vtg. Langlitz. I especially dig the center slash pocket, seems to be really handy and easy to reach on a bike. By the look of it, someone with a lot of riding experience designed this jacket...

And it does seem to be a proper beast. Can't be that much lighter than the Chopper?

Yeah, the pattern is really well thought out, like i was saying yesterday there is something different going on in the armpits and in the inner sleeve at arm pit level, and it makes reaching forward super easy and comfortable.
The center slash pocket is what sold it to me, and the overhang pocket flaps.

It weighs 2.73 kg / 6.03lb, a bit less than the Chopper, but it doesn't have the double thickness layers of nylon padding everywhere!
 
Messages
17,151
Location
Chicago
Does the nylon quilt lining go into the sleeves or are they rayon? Man I'm stoked to get mine. It ain't happening today tho.
 
Messages
16,476
Nylon quilting is all the way though, this is a warm one!

Just in time for the heat wave, eh. XD


Tho I know what you mean about the reach and the jacket being comfortable, @Carlos840. I can't explain it so I won't try, but I know that back/sleeve setup that allows for as much reach as you'd have if the jacket came with shoulder gussets or even action back. I've seen this done properly mostly by European makers, especially on German and Italian made jackets. Must be because shoulder gussets don't seem so popular here...
 

dudewuttheheck

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Messages
4,281
I really like the design of that jacket. The front and back are simple enough that the laces on the side look awesome instead of making the jacket look over designed.
 
Messages
17,151
Location
Chicago
Well I received mine today and it's a beautiful jacket. Unfortunately it's a bust. Fit isn't what I'd hoped for. Works everywhere but the length. Definitely a riders jacket but you know that feeling, when you wish it were an inch longer. Don't act like you don't.
I'll post some pics tomorrow. Bummer but ya win some ya lose some I suppose.
 

gtrplyr

A-List Customer
Messages
313
Location
Wisconsin
Well I received mine today and it's a beautiful jacket. Unfortunately it's a bust. Fit isn't what I'd hoped for. Works everywhere but the length. Definitely a riders jacket but you know that feeling, when you wish it were an inch longer. Don't act like you don't.
I'll post some pics tomorrow. Bummer but ya win some ya lose some I suppose.

Throw up some measurements too if you don't mind...
 
Messages
17,151
Location
Chicago
Throw up some measurements too if you don't mind...
I'll be happy to. Fortunately the jacket was a bargain. I only paid $179 for it and would pass it along for the same! I'll get pics and numbers up tomorrow. It's an absolute shame but if it just dropped an additional inch in the front I'd be pleased as punch. The back is perfect but there's a considerable drop in the kidney panel.
 

gtrplyr

A-List Customer
Messages
313
Location
Wisconsin
I'll be happy to. Fortunately the jacket was a bargain. I only paid $179 for it and would pass it along for the same! I'll get pics and numbers up tomorrow. It's an absolute shame but if it just dropped an additional inch in the front I'd be pleased as punch. The back is perfect but there's a considerable drop in the kidney panel.

Sounds good.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
Nice jacket. Not seen one with quite that pocket layout before. Do both those zippers on the left breast panel go into the same pocket, or do they overly? Either way, looks like they wanted to maximise pocket space accessible easily with the right hand .
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Nice jacket. Not seen one with quite that pocket layout before. Do both those zippers on the left breast panel go into the same pocket, or do they overly? Either way, looks like they wanted to maximise pocket space accessible easily with the right hand .

The pockets have separate pocket bags, but they overlay.
Not sure how practical it is once you start putting stuff inside of them.
I think the idea is to be able to stick something in the middle pocket, whilst still having usable handwarmers.
 
Messages
17,151
Location
Chicago
Well I almost hate to pollute the thread with my pics but here goes, it became pitch black and the sky just opened up. You can see tank looking on in one photo as if to ask if he should run and poop in the basement now. It's a very nice jacket but just too short for my comfort level as a casual jacket. As a riding jacket I think it's pretty brilliant. Especially when fully closed. The oversized lapels create an absolute wall of thick leather in front and the collar can be snapped down on both sides. I agree with Carlos that mobility is quite good, which is surprising given the plain back. The massive two way Talon is nice too but I'm not sure why it's there. I can sit down with it fully zipped and it doesn't ride up in the least.
I'll be getting some better pics tomorrow and throwing it in the classifieds or on eBay. I paid $179'for it which is a good deal for the quality and that's all I'll look to get back out of it.
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