Ordering a custom Aero. Advice or suggenstions needed.

[Colin G]

Good day.

I am going to start the custom Aero process with Thurston Bros soon so I wanted to pick some of the forum member's brains since many of you have done this before and some many times.

I am not a big fella and like my jackets fitting neat and trim. I am 5' 8" and about 160 LB. I refer a jacket with a higher arm hole also.

I have sold off my current leather Jackets (Vanson Model A, Schott 689H) as they were too large for me at a size 42. I should be in a size 40 so I am starting over with two new jackets.

1st is a Thedi shawl collar that should be here in a couple weeks. Hopefully it fits right out of the box and it should going by the measurements off of the Thurston Bros site.

2nd will be a custom Aero I want to get on order asap. I am looking for a more slim fitted offering from them and from what I have gathered by doing some research, these are the jackets I am looking at from Aero.

Board Track, Seven, Plainsman and at the top of my list is the Premiere Half Belt.
I have been staring at the T.B. and Aero site for a while now trying to gather info on the changes I'd like.

Right now, I am really liking the Premiere Half Belt but I'd like a less pointy collar on it but I am unsure at this time if that can be done. I would also need a bi-swing back added like on the Half Belt Deluxe.

Basically I am looking for any suggestions from the experienced custom Aero guys on here.

I have no idea right now about lining. All I know is I don't want wool tartan and am gravitating toward a cotton sateen or even a quilted lining.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I'd go with a Scheene (a Thurston-Bros only option) Basically a cafe racer with a collar. Great for more slender builds. Carrie is the best, it's well worth it to order through them. Lister to her advice first. I would steer clear of "quilted" linings, instead consider simple, durable cotton drill. It is very durable and flexible. I prefer the Horween Heavy Steerhide to all other types of leather, having owned Goat, FQHH, etc.

You'll get plenty of other thoughts here shortly...

 

[jacketjunkie]

Since you are going with thurstons fit jacket process, it's not necessary to debate the right sizing for too long, however I'll still leave it here that based on your weight and the fact that the super snug-fitting Vanson Model A in 42 was too large for you, I'd recommend starting the fit jacket process with a size 38 jacket.

For a slim daily wear jacket, I'd go for the Seven. Board Racer has cool vibes to it, but for casual wear, I'd go with a normal shirt style collar jacket. Not saying Cafe Racers don't work for casual wear though, this is just my personal preference and experience from looking at which jackets I pick up when I leave the house every morning. As much as I love my Vanson America, it gets much less wear than e.g. my Aero HWM or more recently my Vanson Dakota.

The Plainsman is tapered through the body like the 1930s HB, but compared to the Board Racer/Seven it is not exactly a slim fitting jacket.

Cannot say much about the Premier half-belt, don't think we have seen that one too often around here yet.. however with all these changes you want to it, it doesn't sound like this is actually the jacket you want? I'm sure Aero can change the collar but adapting a different patterns back design to the Premier HB? Not sure about that.. Carrie will know!

The Sheene is another great option. Very similar to the Seven going by the details, but based on a very different pattern, so it will fit very differently. Seven is slim all-trough the body, shoulders, sleeves, very high armholes. Sheene has wider shoulders and a strong taper through the body, armholes not as high, sleeves wider. For a broad-shouldered, slim-waisted person, it is a terrific fit.

 

[ProteinNerd]

When I ordered my premier half belt I was told they cant alter the collar.

 

[Fonzie]

When I ordered my premier half belt I was told they cant alter the collar.

The collar of that Premier Half belt would be the only thing that I'd change. I think that it is too narrow and pointy IMO. I still love the jacket though.
My pick for a first Aero would be a Sheene, ticks all the boxes, but maybe I'd go for a mid weight leather to make it easier to break in.

 

[Colin G]

Since you are going with thurstons fit jacket process, it's not necessary to debate the right sizing for too long, however I'll still leave it here that based on your weight and the fact that the super snug-fitting Vanson Model A in 42 was too large for you, I'd recommend starting the fit jacket process with a size 38 jacket.

For a slim daily wear jacket, I'd go for the Seven. Board Racer has cool vibes to it, but for casual wear, I'd go with a normal shirt style collar jacket. Not saying Cafe Racers don't work for casual wear though, this is just my personal preference and experience from looking at which jackets I pick up when I leave the house every morning. As much as I love my Vanson America, it gets much less wear than e.g. my Aero HWM or more recently my Vanson Dakota.

The Plainsman is tapered through the body like the 1930s HB, but compared to the Board Racer/Seven it is not exactly a slim fitting jacket.

Cannot say much about the Premier half-belt, don't think we have seen that one too often around here yet.. however with all these changes you want to it, it doesn't sound like this is actually the jacket you want? I'm sure Aero can change the collar but adapting a different patterns back design to the Premier HB? Not sure about that.. Carrie will know!

The Sheene is another great option. Very similar to the Seven going by the details, but based on a very different pattern, so it will fit very differently. Seven is slim all-trough the body, shoulders, sleeves, very high armholes. Sheene has wider shoulders and a strong taper through the body, armholes not as high, sleeves wider. For a broad-shouldered, slim-waisted person, it is a terrific fit.

Carrie confirmed the collar on the Premiere half belt can be changed to a modified Premiere collar so more close to the 30's style half belt collar. She said only one collar can be sub'ed and that is it. People must have kept inquiring about it so Aero must have caved in and offered an alternative. I can add a bi-swing back no problem also.

The Premiere is the one I keep going back to over and over so that is the one I will choose now that I know a collar mod and bi-swing can happen. I keep looking at the Hudson also but I'm far too short at 5' 8" for a jacket like that. I'll explore that next winter maybe.

The Seven would have been my next choice since it is a Board Track with a collar.

I can't say that I am a fan of the Sheene.

I also need to send back a Lost Worlds leather jean jacket I bought about 10 years ago. It has a similar collar to the Premiere half belt so I don't really wear it. They are going to alter the collar smaller so I can start wearing it again.

 

[Colin G]

I'd go with a Scheene (a Thurston-Bros only option) Basically a cafe racer with a collar. Great for more slender builds. Carrie is the best, it's well worth it to order through them. Lister to her advice first. I would steer clear of "quilted" linings, instead consider simple, durable cotton drill. It is very durable and flexible. I prefer the Horween Heavy Steerhide to all other types of leather, having owned Goat, FQHH, etc.

You'll get plenty of other thoughts here shortly...

Why no on the quilting? It gets cold up here during winter to -30 C. My Schott 689H had a quilted lining that kept me pretty warm. I run hot so I don't need a lot of insulation. That was my only reasoning for quilting was to get a similar warmth to the Schott I just unloaded. I am considering the cotton drill also. The quilted lining may be too thick so I will probably stick to a standard lining like olive cotton sateen and use my down jacket when it dips below -20.

Cordovan steer hide is my first choice for leather.

 

[handymike]

Cordovan steer is a great choice! It pairs really interestingly with the irridescent red/green quilting.

 

[Colin G]

The collar of that Premier Half belt would be the only thing that I'd change. I think that it is too narrow and pointy IMO. I still love the jacket though.
My pick for a first Aero would be a Sheene, ticks all the boxes, but maybe I'd go for a mid weight leather to make it easier to break in.

Pics Carrie sent me of the collars.

Stock Premiere Collar



Modified Premiere Collar

 

[breezer]

1. don't over think it.........too much choice can be dangerous / confusing. You see a lot of jackets, both custom and off the peg, coming up for sale here......for various reasons...but in the end the buyer may have had unreasonable expectations......so keep it simple!

 

[Colin G]

Breezer, I agree. Too many choices can be maddening and there are far too many choices on the Aero site to wade through.

Only mods will for sure be a collar swap and possibly a bi-swing back.

 

[seres]

1. don't over think it.........too much choice can be dangerous / confusing. You see a lot of jackets, both custom and off the peg, coming up for sale here......for various reasons...but in the end the buyer may have had unreasonable expectations......so keep it simple!

Breezer is right... Keep this first Aero jacket simple… Aero’s designs or patterns have been proven, so pick a style and don’t make changes, except for sleeve and body length. I would avoid the extremes in leather and lining thickness, too. Stay away from the extra, extra heavy steer or very plush lining. It’s hard to go wrong with the Front Quarter Horse Hide or Vicenza, with a cotton duck or twill, or lightweight wool lining.

 

[Colin G]

Breezer is right... Keep this first Aero jacket simple… Aero’s designs or patterns have been proven, so pick a style and don’t make changes, except for sleeve and body length. I would avoid the extremes in leather and lining thickness, too. Stay away from the extra, extra heavy steer or very plush lining. It’s hard to go wrong with the Front Quarter Horse Hide or Vicenza, with a cotton duck or twill, or lightweight wool lining.

Wool is itchy and I need thick hide. If I crash while doing 70 KPH on my motorcycle I need a jacket that will not rip to shreds. I use all my leather jackets when riding and don't just stick to one. All I owned so far have been thick hides. Even my Lost Worlds jean jacket is a thick steer hide.

I agree about a plush lining now. That quilted lining is getting stricken from the list. Apparently I'd have to size up for quilted so that is a no go now.

I am not afraid of a thick hide. I have zero issues breaking in a thick leather jacket. I am patient.

 

[breezer]

Wool is itchy

I have 2 aero jackets, one lined in Alpaca, the other in cotton drill. I can advise the wool is not itchy.

 

[Colin G]

I have 2 aero jackets, one lined in Alpaca, the other in cotton drill. I can advise the wool is not itchy.

OK, good to know. I'll get a wool liner sample sent also and I will check it out.

 

[jacketjunkie]

I think alpaca on my Teamster was initially itchy, but that wore off over time.. never heard of tartan wool being itchy, certainly isnt on my HWM or Veste de Rallye.

 

[Peacoat]

My tartan wool lining is not itchy. Too bad you don't like the Sheene; it is a classic simple design jacket.

You are making the right choice in going with Carrie and Wade. It takes the guesswork out of the equation.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Yes so I've not been online much in the past day. I personally find the Tartan's to not be itchy either. They look stunning and they are indeed. Just have to take a little better care of them overall. They really do not add warmth either, but I find they develop holes more easily than Cotton Drill. See my thread about this in a J106 from earlier this year: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/tartan-lining-service-life.94436/#post-2442553

Qilted lining, I find it too warm overall, My LW J23 has it, considering having a different lining put into it. Granted I am in Iowa, not Canada, so it could be that differance too.

Most of all, I totally agree, do not over-think it, and get something you can break-in and make yours. Cordovan Steer sounds awesome to me!

 

[Jejupe]

I am very sensitive to itchy wool, but I have had no problems with Aero's tartan linings.

 

[Colin G]

I'll stick with cotton drill or sateen.