Byer & Rolnick Hats

[Bamaboots]

A recent acquisition that's been on the market for awhile. Perhaps because there are no examples to be found and information on Harry Rolnick is non-existent, other than the merger info that most are aware of, at least in the searches I've done.

The hat itself is quite well made, though it's a bit primitive in regards to later hats. Considering its age, I find that adds to the appeal. Obviously hand made. The dress weight felt is very dense and will accept any crease dry. The finish is good, though not 100 fine, more 25 like. The 2" sweat is great. Still soft and pliable. A pleat in the leather is visible. This was caused by a ribbon stitch that reaches across and tugged on the leather just enough. Hard to believe it held all these years. The white sales tag has 'Ceiling Price' printed but the price is not visible. Remnants of a size tag. The wine colored liner is made of a heavy satin that is quite luxurious. Evidence of a preexisting cellophane tip liner. The 3" brim is bound and the stitching is fine. Look closely and you can see the slightly scalloped edge, showing the brim was likely trimmed with scissors.

Let's see yours.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

...information on Harry Rolnick is non-existent, other than the merger info that most are aware of, at least in the searches I've done.

So that would make the hat pre-1927. Would that be the correct understanding?

 

[Bamaboots]

So that would make the hat pre-1927. Would that be the correct understanding?

That's what I gather from it, HJ. Some may call that an assumption but I think it falls closer to physical evidence.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

That's what I gather from it, HJ. Some may call that an assumption but I think it falls closer to physical evidence.

I'm not in dispute with that. I was wondering how much earlier than Byer-Rolnick could it be? The "gathered" liner is an indicator I would think.

 

[Bamaboots]

I'm not in dispute with that. I was wondering how much earlier than Byer-Rolnick could it be? The "gathered" liner is an indicator I would think.

My apologies. I didn't assume you were in dispute. Those are the same questions I have. Maybe I haven't paid close attention but I don't recall a lot of U S mfgs. using a gathered/pleated liner, or any right off the top. I'm sure there are some, especially in bowlers and derbies.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I'm sure there are some, especially in bowlers and derbies.

Yes, & women's riding hats, etc. All which indicates earlier than later to me.

 

[Hat and Rehat]

That's what I gather from it, HJ. Some may call that an assumption but I think it falls closer to physical evidence.

Hold your nose a little higher and call it empirical evidence, Bama.

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[Hat and Rehat]

My 2 cents.
American hatters involves a bit of ambiguity.
The hatter trade was imported by the immigrants who brought it with them, from the old world.
Prior to the innovation of mechanized industrial mass production in the late 19th century, the idea of American style hat's might be difficult to nail down.

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[Frunobulax]

From: http://www.garlandhistorical.org/on...gn-innovations-put-byer-rolnick-ahead-of-rest

BY Michael R. Hayslip
When Harry Rolnick threw Garland’s hats into the ring, they performed a class act. Even Neiman-Marcus said so.

The Brooklyn native had matured in Houston, where he joined forces with his brothers in the business of renovating men’s hats. Moving to Dallas, he was a principal in the Florence Hat Company, then joined with Edward R. Byer to form Byer-Rolnick Corporation in 1929.

I had never read about the Florence Hat Co. before. That's a new one on me.

From: https://careers.garlandtx.gov/DocumentCenter/View/3467/Hat-Heritage-PDF

This doc states that he opened "Harry's Hat Shop" in 1922. No mention of the Florence Hat Co., which I can't find any additional info on. So...1922-1927? Five years isn't a bad window.

And just to complete things, Rose Rolnick's Obit. She just passed 5 years ago. Shoot, we could have asked her some questions!

Crossposted to the Resistol Roundup

 

[T Jones]

I'm not in dispute with that. I was wondering how much earlier than Byer-Rolnick could it be? The "gathered" liner is an indicator I would think.

My Bradford 7X Quality ''Westerner" has that same 'gathered' red satin liner with the cellophane tip liner intact, (it's a 'Byer-Rolnick' hat, though). But mine is no earlier than the 1950s, as indicated by the original sweat and the longer white manufacturers label under the liner.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

My Bradford 7X Quality ''Westerner" has that same 'gathered' red satin liner with the cellophane tip liner intact, (it's a 'Byer-Rolnick' hat, though). But mine is no earlier than the 1950s, as indicated by the original sweat and the longer white manufacturers label under the liner.

I think of a gathered satin liner as the "coffin liner".

 

[T Jones]

I think of a gathered satin liner as the "coffin liner".

At my age I think I prefer "gathered liner"!

 

[Hat and Rehat]

My Bradford 7X Quality ''Westerner" has that same 'gathered' red satin liner with the cellophane tip liner intact, (it's a 'Byer-Rolnick' hat, though). But mine is no earlier than the 1950s, as indicated by the original sweat and the longer white manufacturers label under the liner.

That's a looser(?) pleat than you often see in bowlers. I have an Aussie cattleman's hat, low telescope crown and wide, fairly flat brim. It's Jackaroo fur felt.
It has a pleated, fitted liner, with a plastic tip protector, perhaps pleated twice as tightly as that one.
It isn't a Rolnick, so I'm providing auxiliary data, not a conclusive argument.

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[DaveProc]

1921

1957

 

[Hurricane Jack]

1921
View attachment 322789



1957
View attachment 322790 View attachment 322791 View attachment 322792

Thanks for finding these, Dave. They help greatly with the timeline.

 

[DaveProc]

Thanks for finding these, Dave. They help greatly with the timeline.

Any time Ken, I suspect the Morris Hat store may have been owned by the Rolnick Bros father Morris Rolnick (*Edit: maybe not)

 

[DaveProc]

1946

 

[DaveProc]

Rolnick Hat Company ( completely seperate from Byer-Rolnick) was owned by brother George Ronlick from c. 1928 until at least 1961 as you will see in the following Texas City Directories 1912 until 1928 showing the Rolnick Brothers and their father Morris.

1912

1913

1918

1919

1920

1923

1925

1928

 

[DaveProc]

Rolnick Hat Company ( completely seperate from Byer-Rolnick) was owned by brother George Ronlick from c. 1928 until at least 1961 as you will see in the following Texas City Directories 1928 until 1961 showing the Rolnick Brothers and their father Morris.

1929

1938

1945

1947

1961

 

[DaveProc]

October 30, 1930