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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,614
Location
Central Texas
I'm not sure what I want yet, but a 20s-40s model would be nice. Thanks for the good advice, gents.

Hi Randy. You should definitely go for a Bowler. The Manchester hat makers were dab hands at making excellent Bowlers. Not sure how often you come across English made hats in the US, though.
I think that Knox was a bargain at $50. Someone somewhere must be pleased. Stetson made a good Bowler, too.

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I have a Stetson, Knox, Hurd's (independent house), and a Woodrow (British) and all are fantastic. Do you want something lined or unlined? Vented or non-vented? Avoid anything with a plastic liner tip because these are from the 50s revival period. Try to find one with the non-sewn sweat joint by the rear bow as these are 30s or earlier (speaking for domestic makes).

Derbies/Bowlers are fairly common on eBay, though the condition can vary quite a bit. I'd recommend waiting until you find one in great condition, don't settle for good enough. If you're wanting something a bit more unique once in a blue moon a Stetson nutria homburg will pop up on eBay. As @Steve1857 mentioned, you can often score a bargain for $50 or less.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,308
Location
Denmark
Guilty! I'm loving this bowler. It's flawless and really comfy. I appreciate that none of you gents made me pay more for it than the opening bid. [emoji120]
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Nice catch at a super price. Looks good on you, too. Congrats.

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Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Germany
Matt, Now that I look at it again it might be earlier than I thought. The reason being is the outside reed on the sweatband. It's possible this type of sweatband made it into the 1950s but I don't have any other 1950s era German Stiff Felts to compare it with.

Thank you, Steve, for your comment.
The outside reed? So this elongated grain?
Do you mean the structure of the sweatband?
You think that's typical of German pre-war hats?
36914200re.jpg

I also thought briefly about whether it might come from the UK and was only sold in Munich.
Would something like that be possible?

By the way, I took out the glued cork strips at the front and at the back
to place them at the side to get a better fit.
I noticed these number labels. Does that help?
36914199eb.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,218
Location
Maryland
Thank you, Steve, for your comment.
The outside reed? So this elongated grain?
Do you mean the structure of the sweatband?
You think that's typical of German pre-war hats?
36914200re.jpg

I also thought briefly about whether it might come from the UK and was only sold in Munich.
Would something like that be possible?

By the way, I took out the glued cork strips at the front and at the back
to place them at the side to get a better fit.
I noticed these number labels. Does that help?
36914199eb.jpg
Matt, Looks like there is a reed on the outside edge of the sweatband. See the grey reed covering at the outer edge of this example.

10822759383_cf0dc4efe7_b.jpg


The numbered paper labels look similar to some of the WWII era mystery German Wool hats. Is your Stiff Felt made of Wool?

32231118116_9ed132a931_b.jpg
 
Messages
17,856
Location
Nederland
Vintage Bowlers have the most wonderful pleated liners. Here are mine from Bowlers of the 1920s and 30s.
Hope to see some of yours fellow Bowler/Derby owners.
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Nice display, Steve. Is that the Moores I alerted you to back when? Or is it a different one?
 
Messages
17,856
Location
Nederland
Another one of yesterday's haul. Mossant chapeau melon in a size 60. Brim at 5cm and crown 13,5cm. No liner and the brim binding is toast (obviously). Still interesting enough to bring it along. The brim binding can be replaced and a liner can be added. Very nice hand to the felt. The shell is still a wee bit lumpy from dents it suffered in the past, but it has good bones as it were.

mossant bowler_01.jpg
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mossant bowler_10.jpg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,308
Location
Denmark
Another one of yesterday's haul. Mossant chapeau melon in a size 60. Brim at 5cm and crown 13,5cm. No liner and the brim binding is toast (obviously). Still interesting enough to bring it along. The brim binding can be replaced and a liner can be added. Very nice hand to the felt. The shell is still a wee bit lumpy from dents it suffered in the past, but it has good bones as it were.

View attachment 192060 View attachment 192061 View attachment 192062 View attachment 192063 View attachment 192064 View attachment 192065 View attachment 192066 View attachment 192067 View attachment 192068 View attachment 192069
Another nice find in such a large size, Stefan. I bet Fleur could fix those occupational wounds. Shame it's not my size.

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Messages
17,218
Location
Maryland
Here's one I did not bring along, but I thought I'd show you anyway. Interesting enough to take some pictures of.
Mayser bowler. Didn't bring a measuring tape, so can't give you dimensions, but I liked the finishing on this one.

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Stefan, Super! Haven't seen that type of sweatband before on an old Mayser Stiff Felt. Thank you for taking photos.
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,103
Location
Germany
Here's one I did not bring along, but I thought I'd show you anyway. Interesting enough to take some pictures of.
Mayser bowler. Didn't bring a measuring tape, so can't give you dimensions, but I liked the finishing on this one.

View attachment 192098 View attachment 192094 View attachment 192095 View attachment 192096 View attachment 192097 View attachment 192099

Stefan, super find this Mayser!
The whole design of the interior and especially the structure of the sweatband
(apart from the outer reed) reminds me very much of my bowler from Hut Seidl.
This leads me to the assumption that my bowler may also have been made by Mayser.
Steve has already exposed the link between Mayser and Seidl on his side:
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

36906620ob.jpg
36906633vq.jpg
 
Messages
17,218
Location
Maryland
Stefan, super find this Mayser!
The whole design of the interior and especially the structure of the sweatband
(apart from the outer reed) reminds me very much of my bowler from Hut Seidl.
This leads me to the assumption that my bowler may also have been made by Mayser.
Steve has already exposed the link between Mayser and Seidl on his side:
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

36906620ob.jpg
36906633vq.jpg
Matt, Does this Hut-Seidl Stiff Felt have a paper label? I can't remember.
 

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