Thanks @AeroFan. I like Thedi's work more and more.Jonsey...
^^Very nice jacket & review there Jonesy!
But by golly I would want no part of swimming in those waves...
Do you surf on them?
I don't use a board, I only swim. However, I do use many of the same techniques as the surfers. There is a point swimming out where I have to dive under the waves, just like the surfers do. I then hang out and swim just past where they wait for the next ride and I swim over the swell.
I do essentially body surf coming back to shore. There is again a point at which I will ride over the wave, and then I begin to dive under them again, and then try to time when to start surfing the waves to get back to shore and counter the rip currents. A bit strange, if not unusual as I have been making a habit of this on a daily basis for quite a while now. Thankfully the life guards all keep a close eye on me, and the surfers throw me a Shaka as I swim by.



