Footwear to go with our jackets

[jonbuilder]

Histories of White’s, Wesco, Nicks, and Viberg
https://www.stitchdown.com/stitchdown-shoecast/pnw-bootmaker-histories-whites-wesco-nicks-viberg/

 

[lina]

 

[handymike]

for my contribution, my old 1000 mile'rs. Wish they still made these.

I had a pair of these Austen boots, really nice!
Late with my reply about the Frye’s, but I went with my typical boot/ dress shoe size (9.5 US). They are a little tight at first, but not overly so and thinner socks helped. I have another pair of Frye boots in the same size, so I was pretty comfortable with my order. I also size down 1/2 for Wolverine (9 US) and up 1/2 for sneakers (10 US).

 

[barnabus]

I bought some cheapo budget combat boots for kicking about, for out walking in mud or working in my garden or whatever. I confess I already adore them and they remind me of 30 years ago when I was a student.

But. One boot has a tongue with a mind of its own that lays off to one side. Thus:

So my question is, how do you "train" the tongue of a boot to sit centrally?

 

[ABCD]

I bought some cheapo budget combat boots for kicking about, for out walking in mud or working in my garden or whatever. I confess I already adore them and they remind me of 30 years ago when I was a student.

But. One boot has a tongue with a mind of its own that lays off to one side. Thus:

So my question is, how do you "train" the tongue of a boot to sit centrally?

I had the same problem with these Crockett and Jones and therefore sent them back to C&J. They fixed it by adding some stitches to one side. In this case it's an afterthought but I also had boots that came like this from the factory (Edward Green).

 

[barnabus]

They look terrific Marc!

 

[Canuck Panda]

RM Williams

View attachment 393600

Are those Kangaroo?

 

[Canuck Panda]

I bought some cheapo budget combat boots for kicking about, for out walking in mud or working in my garden or whatever. I confess I already adore them and they remind me of 30 years ago when I was a student.

But. One boot has a tongue with a mind of its own that lays off to one side. Thus:

So my question is, how do you "train" the tongue of a boot to sit centrally?

I had the same problem with these Crockett and Jones and therefore sent them back to C&J. They fixed it by adding some stitches to one side. In this case it's an afterthought but I also had boots that came like this from the factory (Edward Green).

View attachment 393844
View attachment 393845 View attachment 393846 View attachment 393847

The tongue hanging to the side also happens to my half bellow tongue boots. The only way to secure it is to lace through the tongue. It's weird though, not all my boots have this issue even they are the same boots different color leather. Another mystery to be solved.

 

[Jin431]

Are those Kangaroo?

I have no clue but it's probably calf/yearling since the leather is quite supple. isn't kangaroo a bit grainy/pebbled?

 

[andyone]

My preferences have changed. In the past I prefered boots in the style of RW Iron Rangers. Now I prefer shoes with woodman heels. Therefore I sent my Dr. Footers Mariner boots to Dr. Sole for a facelift.

What they did:
• Re-last
• Re-welt
• Re-sole
• Speed hook installment

As they were:

And after the facelift:
(The pics are from Dr. Sole, boots are still in transit)

The woodman heel looks a bit high to my taste. If it is too high, I will install a thinner heel outsole. I really look forward to these boots...

 

[lina]

@andyone Interesting boots. I’d never heard of Dr Footers. They remind me of traditional Scandinavian boots, like ones currently being made by Ostmo.

 

[andyone]

@andyone Interesting boots. I’d never heard of Dr Footers. They remind me of traditional Scandinavian boots, like ones currently being made by Ostmo.

Funny that you mention Ostmo. Dr. Footers replied on IG about the pattern that it is an "original pattern from US navy Army 1938". Ostmo replied to him: "Norwegian army used the same pattern back then too, it’s what I’ve based my Type I pattern on Pretty unique stuff, only you and me make this pattern these days"

Link to IG:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CYaeS3aPjVQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

[jonbuilder]

I don't like boots with laces but for Kreosote's I'd make an exception. Never did handle a pair sadly, as with so many US made things, but from what I'm seeing (and reading online), can't see how I coulda end up disappointed. But they sure do cost a lot. Still, if there's one item of clothing worth the $, it's gotta be boots. More so than the leather jackets, I think.

You're right, this is a mean looking boot!
What needs to be taken into account with Kroese's nail shank boot is built on lasts adjusted for your right and another for your left foot based on 3 dimensions based on a number of measurements submitted of one's feet. No off-the-shelf boots made to standard sizes. The only other bootmaker that I am aware of who does not sell off-the-shelf boots only custom lasted boots is D. W. Frommer based in Redmond OR. My pair of black french calif full wellingtons ran $2,550 and I waited 24 months was told 18 months but D.W. had health issues. I went to D.W. home shop to be measured
Kroese's original nail shank boot his origin and solely custom lasted boot lead time is 30 months

 

[Jin431]

My preferences have changed. In the past I prefered boots in the style of RW Iron Rangers. Now I prefer shoes with woodman heels. Therefore I sent my Dr. Footers Mariner boots to Dr. Sole for a facelift.

What they did:
• Re-last
• Re-welt
• Re-sole
• Speed hook installment

As they were:

And after the facelift:
(The pics are from Dr. Sole, boots are still in transit)

The woodman heel looks a bit high to my taste. If it is too high, I will install a thinner heel outsole. I really look forward to these boots...

looks great! thanks for sharing! how was the whole process like as far as cost/wait time?

 

[andyone]

looks great! thanks for sharing! how was the whole process like as far as cost/wait time?

I contacted them by mail (works better than IG) and sent the boots. The boots arrived at the beginning of Septembre and I was told that the lead time would be 12-14 weeks. I wrote several emails, asking questions and changing details and they normally responded very chick within 1-2 days, but there were also some delays in answering (I think they were busy as they launched their first homemade boots these days).

Costs:
Resole: USD $150 (single leather midsole and half sole)
Re-last: USD $170 (re-welting included)
So the total prices was USD $320 plus shipping 60$.

 

[Jin431]

I contacted them by mail (works better than IG) and sent the boots. The boots arrived at the beginning of Septembre and I was told that the lead time would be 12-14 weeks. I wrote several emails, asking questions and changing details and they normally responded very chick within 1-2 days, but there were also some delays in answering (I think they were busy as they launched their first homemade boots these days).

Costs:
Resole: USD $150 (single leather midsole and half sole)
Re-last: USD $170 (re-welting included)
So the total prices was USD $320 plus shipping 60$.

thanks for sharing! I always wondered how dr soles work and the process is pretty straight forward but it's not cheap for sure(don't know how much a local cobbler would charge so I'm guessing it's most likely within the same range) not that I need any immediate resole job but it's great to know either way.

 

[andyone]

thanks for sharing! I always wondered how dr soles work and the process is pretty straight forward but it's not cheap for sure(don't know how much a local cobbler would charge so I'm guessing it's most likely within the same range) not that I need any immediate resole job but it's great to know either way.

I don't know prices in other countries than Switzerland and Germany. Problem here in Switzerland is that there is no cobbler I would trust doing a rebuild like that. And woodman heels are the type of heels you don't often see here, therefore I am not sure a cobbler would do it right. There is a guy in Germany, Ingo Keller aka "Schuhgott" (https://www.schuhgott.de/) that could do it right. Prices seems to be in the same range for a rebuild like that.
So yes, it's not cheap, but it was worth it for me.

 

[Fifty150]

(don't know how much a local cobbler would charge so I'm guessing it's most likely within the same range)

I have used this shop in the past. They were able to restore my uniform duty boots with Vibram lug soles. Pretty standard work in the world of shoe repairs on military style boots with a Goodyear welt.

There are videos on YouTube showing boot repairs.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I don't know prices in other countries than Switzerland and Germany. Problem here in Switzerland is that there is no cobbler I would trust doing a rebuild like that. And woodman heels are the type of heels you don't often see here, therefore I am not sure a cobbler would do it right. There is a guy in Germany, Ingo Keller aka "Schuhgott" (https://www.schuhgott.de/) that could do it right. Prices seems to be in the same range for a rebuild like that.
So yes, it's not cheap, but it was worth it for me.

One of the guys from Brass Tokyo lives in Germany now and does repairs. He does amazing work. @brasstokyo_masa on Instagram. I know that's not Switzerland, but it's the closest cobbler I would trust.

 

[andyone]

One of the guys from Brass Tokyo lives in Germany now and does repairs. He does amazing work. @brasstokyo_masa on Instagram. I know that's not Switzerland, but it's the closest cobbler I would trust.

Ah yes, Masa. A really friendly guy - and I think he does really good work from what I've seen.
I have another boot he is working on for a "facelift" . But he is more expensive than Dr. Sole.