Homburg Nation

[steur]

Small miracles

Thanks, Joe. I can make it work even though I already have a few dozen in the same colour scheme. But why can't sellers just get the size right?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

What I really don’t need is yet another black homburg….

Biltmore Golden Pheasant black velour size 7 3/4. Not only is the velour finish soft, the felt doesn’t have much of a firm core and the hat is soft and light on the head. Seeing that it’s from Menshats.com I’m guessing it’s from the 1930s.

 

[steur]

Berteil homburg in grey colour called 'abbey' on the label. Size 55 with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Quite modest proportions for a homburg, which has me thinking it is a bit later one, likely early to mid sixties. The liner is different from the usual Berteil liner logo as well. Sold to me as a size 56, so not too pleased it turned out to be a size smaller, but I'll keep it anyway (it's on the stretcher).
The sweatband states "importé d'Angleterre" (imported from England) and in fact I know who the manufacturer was. It was made by Moores, because they used both the more square labels and the cloth size labels. Berteil used only the best manufacturers, so it is a testimony to the quality Moores could provide that Berteil chose them.

 

[steur]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

 

[Steve1857]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

Super colour, shape, ribbon and bow, Stefan.
PM on its way.

 

[steur]

Super colour, shape, ribbon and bow, Stefan.
PM on its way.

Thanks, Steve. Thought this one would catch your eye

 

[Steve1857]

Thanks, Steve. Thought this one would catch your eye

You tease

 

[deadlyhandsome]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

Now THAT’S my kind of homburg! Great find, Stefan.

 

[steur]

Now THAT’S my kind of homburg! Great find, Stefan.

Thanks, Brent. Mossant is rapidly rising through the ranks of favourite brands.

 

[Blare]

T

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

Tremendous proportions

 

[steur]

T

Tremendous proportions

Thanks, Joe.

 

[steur]

Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

Berteil

Laubin

Mossant

 

[Steve1857]

Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

Berteil

Laubin

Mossant

Great and interesting comparisons, Stefan. Also, very useful when explaining to people why one needs so many hats

 

[mayserwegener]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

Stefan, Really fantastic!

 

[steur]

Great and interesting comparisons, Stefan. Also, very useful when explaining to people why one needs so many hats

Thanks, Steve. True, and you need one in every colour of course. It just adds up!

Stefan, Really fantastic!

Thank you, Steve.

 

[The Shoe]

With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.

My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.

My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.

 

[Steve1857]

With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.
View attachment 415084 View attachment 415085
My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.
View attachment 415087 View attachment 415088
My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.
View attachment 415091

Welcome to the Nation, Gary. You've entered in style. Two great looking Homburgs.

 

[The Shoe]

Welcome to the Nation, Gary. You've entered in style. Two great looking Homburgs.

Thank you, Steve.

 

[steur]

With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.
View attachment 415084 View attachment 415085
My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.
View attachment 415087 View attachment 415088
My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.
View attachment 415091

I thought you were a nation member already, Gary! Careful though: homburgs are very addictive, especially if you've been in contact with such nice examples as you have!

 

[The Shoe]

I thought you were a nation member already, Gary! Careful though: homburgs are very addictive, especially if you've been in contact with such nice examples as you have!

It was remiss of me not to post the Brummel’s here when I first got it from you.
I know how you love homburgs. I think to me, you will always be the Homburg guy. Just like @johnnycanuck is the Akubra guy, @quikrick is the Pork Pie guy, @Blare is the stingy guy (wrt brims!) and @Daniele Tanto is the heathered felt guy. Just shows how first impressions stick. I suspect there might be a few members who joined in the last year who think of me as the Hornskov guy.