Chipie leather jacket

[Guppy]

Delivery occurred today.

Jacket is in nice shape overall. The lining has some issues -- the material in the sleeves has deteriorated near the cuffs, and should probably be re-lined in the near future at some point, but as-is it's wearable. The only other thing with it is the right handwarmer pocket's bag has a weird twist in it that causes the bag to fail to lay flat. The lining in the body is a satiny red, the tag says it's 100% polyester I think -- but due to language not being english, I'm not 100% sure. It might be the quilting insulation is the polyester, and the lining material itself is viscose/cotton. It's very smooth and soft and feels somewhat luxurious.

The fit is pretty good, if a bit roomy. I found a size tag, it's an XXL. But it's awfully small for an XXL. In asian sizing, XXL corresponds to a slim-fitting 44, and I typically wear a 42 or 44 in most outwear. I'd say this fits, but it's looser than a chinese or japanese XXL, but not the wrong size for me. It just gives me some room to layer. So we'll say a loose 44 rather than a 46. Good enough I can wear it and not feel like I should move it on for fit reasons.

The leather is amazing. It's not heavy, I would estimate it's probably 1.0mm, but the grain is fantastic. The quality of the leather is similar to Vanson's old comp weight, just in a thinner split off the top. It's fully broken in, and buttery soft, almost like sheep skin, but I believe it's cowhide.

The waist adjustment tabs are zipper-like locking tabs. I've seen these in a few European jackets, older vintage from the 40s-60s, and mostly in photos, not in person. These are fully functional and seem to work well.

While I was waiting on the delivery, I spent a lot of time zooming in as much as possible on the maker's label in the listing photos, trying to decipher what the fine print said on it. It was a game, I felt like a detective in Blade Runner trying to enhance a photo for clues. My best guess was that the label said "A Chipie Product. Smarter St. Louis Leather Wear Since 1967". I wasn't that far off -- the text actually says "A Chipie Product. Smarter Styling Longer Wear Since 1967."

My most burning question is how old is this jacket? The merchant believed it was 80's vintage, but could it date somewhat closer to 1967 than that? I have no idea. But the style of the jacket, the label, and the hardware, to me, all give me the impression of something older than the 80s. Unless Chipie was doing retro styled reproductions of late 60s style in the 80s? Who knows? It doesn't have the gaudy, funky style of a 1970s jacket, nor does it have the post-punk futuristic 80s look. On the other hand, the main zipper is YKK, which doesn't mean a whole lot by itself -- YKK has been around since 1934. But when did YKK zippers become dominant in the marketplace enough to displace all other brands? I don't know the precise answer to that , but as an 80s kid I think it had already happened. I don't know zippers well enough to narrow down the period by the style of the zipper, either, but I'm betting someone on the forum might have a better eye for that sort of thing than I do. If it were 60s or earlier, I'd expect ZIPP or Lightning zippers in a European jacket of 60s or earlier vintage, or maybe Riri. If Chipie was formed in 1967, it can't be any earlier than that, obviously. For now I'll say I suspect mid 70s or earlier, but I could be wrong.

I'll be posting more photos soon. Stay tuned.

 

[Marc mndt]

If it were 60s or earlier, I'd expect ZIPP or Lightning zippers in a European jacket of 60s or earlier vintage,

Those are only to be found on English (or Canadian) jackets from that era.

French or German makers used other zipper suppliers:

 

[Guppy]

Chipie seems to be French, based on the use of French words on some of the label text.

 

[Monitor]

Looks nice so far but I'm tellin' you, it's an early 90's jacket.

 

[Monitor]

There are few of them on Vinted. Here's one with good info:

https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/coats-and-jackets/jackets/leather-jackets/1275386064-blouson-cuir-noir-homme-vintage-chipie-taille-xl

Made between 1989 - 1999. Sounds (and looks) about right. As I said in my previous post, it was one of the European Americana revival makers, like Chevignon, Redskins, Lee Trevor, etc. All late 80's to late 90's.

 

[Guppy]

There are few of them on Vinted. Here's one with good info:

https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/coats-and-jackets/jackets/leather-jackets/1275386064-blouson-cuir-noir-homme-vintage-chipie-taille-xl

Made between 1989 - 1999. Sounds (and looks) about right. As I said in my previous post, it was one of the European Americana revival makers, like Chevignon, Redskins, Lee Trevor, etc. All late 80's to late 90's.

It could be, I can't prove anything at this point.

That jacket on Vinted looks rather different from the one I have. I note:

- the leather appears to be of an inferior grade. Look at this crack. Note the corrected grain look and lack of patina.

- the lining is a 80s-style print
- the brand label is of a style that looks more like what you'd see in the late 80s (large, square label backed with leather patch). Mine looks like an older style, or at least a repro made to look like an older style.
- the zipper pulls on this look more modern/80s, less retro/vintage.
- the jacket pattern itself looks like a hodgepodge of stylistic elements from the past, thrown together without much rhyme or reason to it.

Lol @ the symmetrical double perfecto-style coin pockets. Shoulder seams off the shoulder in oversize 90s style



If you showed me these two jackets and said they were from the same maker, which they are, I would guess they were produced during different decades.

Again, it doesn't prove anything, but assuming that the "Since 1967" isn't just some sort of marketing lie, it's possible that the jacket I have could have been made pre-80s.

I don't claim to know anything definitively.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It could be made in Canada. Either Toronto garment district or Montreal garment district. That will explain the dual language. There is still a surviving leather industry there (Toronto and Montreal). And they make very high quality stuff for very little money (comparatively).

 

[Marc mndt]

It could be made in Canada. Either Toronto garment district or Montreal garment district.

It's made in France.

"An iconic French designer label strongly inspired by the American campus style and student lifestyle. Founded in 1967 by Jean-Michel Signoles, Chipie, with its dog, its badges, and colors has gradually found its place amongst the jeans sector.

At only age 17 Jean-Michel Signoles began customizing vintage second-hand clothes imported from the US, before opening, 4 years later, his first production factory.

In the early 70s, Chipie developed a strong identity as one of France’s leaders in denim. Chipie was also recognized for brand creativity and was one of the first to feature their labels as more than just a means of identification."

 

[Guppy]

It could be made in Canada. Either Toronto garment district or Montreal garment district. That will explain the dual language. There is still a surviving leather industry there (Toronto and Montreal). And they make very high quality stuff for very little money (comparatively).

Maybe, but @Monitor seems to know that they're European, and given that he's in Europe and pretty knowledgeable I'm inclined to believe him a good bit. As well, the jacket was found in Eurpoe (Northern Grip is in Latvia) and it has a Euro-style pull on the left size main zip. The language on the tags alternates between French and English, but doesn't translate both, as would be typical in the bilingual Canadian tradition. So, I still don't know anything, but my assumption is that this is from France or perhaps a country where French is commonly spoken, like Belgium maybe? But it could be Canada for all I know. I don't have much to go on, mostly just speculation and hearsay.

Whatever it is, it's pretty nice.

 

[Monitor]

Again, it doesn't prove anything, but assuming that the "Since 1967" isn't just some sort of marketing lie, it's possible that the jacket I have could have been made pre-80s.

It's not a lie per se; The 1967 is either the specific product line or part of the company title. Case in point, 80's to 90's European maker called 1957 Firenze...

Vintage Firenze 1957 Vintage Raw Leather Jacket Brown Small | Grailed

Searching for Firenze 1957 Vintage Raw Leather Jacket Brown Small? We’ve got Vintage Men's Outerwear starting at $117 and plenty of other Men's Outerwear. Shop our selection of Vintage today!

www.grailed.com

Another maker that was also in the business of making somewhat retro-inspired leather jackets, one that was obviously relatively popular, seeing how many of their jackets have been turning up. Shitty quality, tho. . .

Many European brands used a year as a brand name and a marketing ploy. You gotta understand how influential the US fashion of the 50's, 60's and the 70's was in most of European continent. Current Americana fad - Which, granted, is slowly but surely fading - Is but a whisper compared to how things were back in the 80's.

You could earn a fortune in Europe just by re-selling Avirex jackets, how popular was the fact that their jackets were US made, used to be. Still is among older guys.

The chain pulls on sleeve zippers are tell-tale sign of a late 80's production. I think Lee Trevor was the first one to source chain pulls and thus further improve the authenticity of their jackets and few other makers began using them as well but they'd slap them everywhere. You will see this ONLY on an European jacket.

It's a long a tedious subject but either way, this is a new-ish jacket.

 

[barnabus]

As @Monitor says, brands often include a heritage year in their brand name. You only have to look at Gap 1969. Those aren't clothes made in 1969.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Okay, made in France or EU it is. I wasn't trying to argue the country of origin, just saw the familiar dual language tags.

Even if the jacket was produced in the 80s, it is still a 40 years old jacket by now.

The Chipie brand is still alive as it seems. Probably been bought and sold. It's still a brand on YOOX but shoes, no jacket.

 

[Guppy]

As @Monitor says, brands often include a heritage year in their brand name. You only have to look at Gap 1969. Those aren't clothes made in 1969.

Of course not, but it probably means that the company was founded that year. Which means therefore that they made no jackets prior to that year. But, for all I know, the year could be "aspirational" (eg, a retro brand that wants to be associated strongly with a particular year, even though it didn't exist back then, it makes clothes the way they were in that era), or it could be the founder's birth year for all I know.

I google-searched the quote that @Marc mndt found, and found the original(?) page where he pulled it from, and it said that the company was founded in 1967. Who knows when they started making leather jackets, but clearly 1967 would be an absolute lower bound on when the jacket could have been made. I'm not saying that that's when this jacket was made, just that '67 would seem to be the absolute earliest that it could have been made

Could it have been late 80s or even 90s? Sure, I suppose so. I have no way of knowing; I'm certainly not claiming to be an expert. I am interested in educating myself/researching to see if I can narrow it down. But, to me, it doesn't look like it was made the way jackets were made during the late 80s or 90s. It looks more like something that would have blended right in during the late 1960s or early 70s. I wasn't alive then, and I was just a kid in the 80s, though, so I'm not confident. I'd say I'm maybe 20-35% confident, if that. I could be way off and not have a way of knowing (other than trusting that someone else knows what they're talking about, which for all I know, Monitor does. Being closer to the European market, I'm willing to believe he'd know better than me.)

Could there have been companies still using styles and production techniques from the 60s or 70s in the 80s or 90s? Of course, absolutely. Do I see anything that I would say definitively moves the lower bound on the rage of years when it could have produced up? No; but I don't necessarily have the depth of knowledge that would enable to say that with authority. So, to me, I don't think I can rule out that it's an early 80s jacket or even a 70s jacket, but @Monitor could be right that it's later than that. I certainly can't establish that he's not right.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It's good stuff. I've always perceive Made-in-France garments/accessories products higher value/quality than any other EU countries. Sorry Italy, Spain and the rest!

Different brands are just perceived very differently depending on location. I remember Big Star jeans were the top choice back when I was in high school in YVR. But during my first Europe visit I found that Levis were twice the money on the other side of the Pond. And Mcdee meals cost about 20 D-Marks, but we can get a Warsteiner with that. Just blew my mind back then as an 18 year old kid.

 

[Edward]

It's made in France.

"An iconic French designer label strongly inspired by the American campus style and student lifestyle. Founded in 1967 by Jean-Michel Signoles, Chipie, with its dog, its badges, and colors has gradually found its place amongst the jeans sector.

At only age 17 Jean-Michel Signoles began customizing vintage second-hand clothes imported from the US, before opening, 4 years later, his first production factory.

In the early 70s, Chipie developed a strong identity as one of France’s leaders in denim. Chipie was also recognized for brand creativity and was one of the first to feature their labels as more than just a means of identification."

I remember seeing Chipie denim in large quantities in Camden market way back in the late 90s; dungarees (bib overalls in US speak) were particularly common with that brand on them as I recall. Don't remember ever seeing a leather then, though.

It's good stuff. I've always perceive Made-in-France garments/accessories products higher value/quality than any other EU countries. Sorry Italy, Spain and the rest!

Different brands are just perceived very differently depending on location. I remember Big Star jeans were the top choice back when I was in high school in YVR. But during my first Europe visit I found that Levis were twice the money on the other side of the Pond. And Mcdee meals cost about 20 D-Marks, but we can get a Warsteiner with that. Just blew my mind back then as an 18 year old kid.

Around 1989/90, my local military surplus place started selling used 501s for £35 a pop. That's about GBP70 in today's money. Condition was mixed. In those days, though, it was considered a bargain by those who wanted a pair that looked broken in; the ripped-knee trend was still in full swing. A new pair of 501s at the time was the equivalent of GBP100-110ish now. I remember being utterly gobsmacked at how fast those used ones - apparently sourced from US prisons where they were SI uniform (or so the marketing line ran) - sold. Bearing in mind at the time I was paying around £15 a pair for Dingos; by the end of the 90s I was wearing Lee Coopers at £25 a pair. Always hated ripped denim as a look, too. But then I'm still not big on shelling out huge money for denim; it's a big part of why I never got seriously into the selvedge thing.

 

[Monitor]

@Guppy Let's see that jacket!

It's good stuff. I've always perceive Made-in-France garments/accessories products higher value/quality than any other EU countries. Sorry Italy, Spain and the rest!

Perception is subjective.

Italy, Germany, Austria, France and United Kingdom all produced leather jackets on an equal level and none had a substantial superior product in any or all aspects compared to others.

Nicest leather that I have handled indeed came from Italy. Germany and Austria produced some of the sturdiest, most refined motorcycle jackets in Europe but Italy wasn't behind, too. France was right in between with a long and influential history of leather jackets and coats, same as England.

As far as the value goes, leathers made by more famous Italian companies still hold the highest price on any market, followed by known UK brands such as Lewis Leathers, Belstaff, Matchless, etc. I can't readily think of a single French maker whose jackets sell for big money on the used market but there must be a few. . .

Of España I know little but from a geographical standpoint, I don't suppose the country suffers a great need for leather jackets.

 

[ton312]

No certainty but from the looks of the label, and the size numeration (XXL) it certainly appears to be a 80's-90's era jacket. European produced stuff is always harder to date. I've seen very few Euro or American jackets from the 60's and 70's that don't use numbers to indicate size. S,M,L,XL seemed to gain more popularity in the late 70's and into the 80's.

Hard to gain any information from the photos presented.

 

[Monitor]

Everything looks 100% legit 90's. Material tags weren't even used at all during the early 80's in Europe, let alone before. Jackets only had main tag, sometimes production tag that meant nothing to buyer and that was it.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I remember seeing Chipie denim in large quantities in Camden market way back in the late 90s; dungarees (bib overalls in US speak) were particularly common with that brand on them as I recall. Don't remember ever seeing a leather then, though.



Around 1989/90, my local military surplus place started selling used 501s for £35 a pop. That's about GBP70 in today's money. Condition was mixed. In those days, though, it was considered a bargain by those who wanted a pair that looked broken in; the ripped-knee trend was still in full swing. A new pair of 501s at the time was the equivalent of GBP100-110ish now. I remember being utterly gobsmacked at how fast those used ones - apparently sourced from US prisons where they were SI uniform (or so the marketing line ran) - sold. Bearing in mind at the time I was paying around £15 a pair for Dingos; by the end of the 90s I was wearing Lee Coopers at £25 a pair. Always hated ripped denim as a look, too. But then I'm still not big on shelling out huge money for denim; it's a big part of why I never got seriously into the selvedge thing.

I should've loaded my luggage with Levis on my way to Europe and then loaded them with Big Stars on my way back. Would've made a killing!
Back in the 90s Levis weren't as popular as say Gap where I was at. They were at about the same price, C$50. Even cheaper at the discount stores. Fancy jean brand for me back then was Big Star which was about C$120 and was only 70 ish Swiss Francs in Europe. Levis in Europe were about the same price or more than the Big Star jeans then. Crazy expensive.
The biggest discount was that the entire Euro trip about 3 weeks cost only C$900 then. I believe the school program did most of the heavy lifting with arranging home stays and so on. But air fare, bus, and meals were included. A big eye opener for me back then.

@Guppy Let's see that jacket!




Perception is subjective.

Italy, Germany, Austria, France and United Kingdom all produced leather jackets on an equal level and none had a substantial superior product in any or all aspects compared to others.

Nicest leather that I have handled indeed came from Italy. Germany and Austria produced some of the sturdiest, most refined motorcycle jackets in Europe but Italy wasn't behind, too. France was right in between with a long and influential history of leather jackets and coats, same as England.

As far as the value goes, leathers made by more famous Italian companies still hold the highest price on any market, followed by known UK brands such as Lewis Leathers, Belstaff, Matchless, etc. I can't readily think of a single French maker whose jackets sell for big money on the used market but there must be a few. . .

Of España I know little but from a geographical standpoint, I don't suppose the country suffers a great need for leather jackets.

Okay, not France it is!

FWIW, I went from Ferragamo to JM Weston and now only wear North Hampton brands for shoes, and not the overpriced brands like C&J or Lobb. I am just too cheap to pay for anything with a premium branding markup now.

 

[Monitor]

Okay, not France it is!

FWIW, I went from Ferragamo to JM Weston and now only wear North Hampton brands for shoes, and not the overpriced brands like C&J or Lobb. I am just too cheap to pay for anything with a premium branding markup now.

But not France it isn't also!

I'm surprised to hear you're cheap seeing how many jackets you've bought lately. But I know not much of shoes, anyway. Never even held a shoe by C&J or Lobb.