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WTB - Hercules D Pocket or similar, 42ish

NAB

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
Hi folks,

As the title suggests I'm in search of a Hercules D pocket or something in the same vein (e.g. an older Oakbrook). Ideally one of the detachable/belt-through models (belt itself not necessary) as they seem to be shorter in the body, which is important to me as I have a short torso and wear a higher rise pant.

It's been my white whale for a long time but they tend to pop up in smaller sizes or for outlandish prices from Japan (or both) or I just end up not being fast enough when they do appear. I know Aero, Bill Kelso and many others would be able to make something similar up but that's quite a bit beyond what I can outlay unfortunately and anyway, the history that comes with a vintage jacket is special.

Chest measures about 42, so I'd imagine a 22 to 23 pit to pit would probably be the right fit. I'm in the US, so probably best CONUS given current tariff situation but might be able to work something out from the EU or UK.

I know I'm not alone in this one but any offers, suggestions or advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.



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Buick

One of the Regulars
Messages
194
Location
New Zealand
Hi. You’ve not mentioned where you are based, which could make a big difference for what you have access to - especially in the current climate of tariffs. If you like the style but would consider something newer, I can recommend the Eastman Roadstar highly and they do turn up here and on the usual auction sites.
 
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NAB

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
Ah I'd meant to add, thanks for catching, I'm in the US, have amended the post. Appreciate the Roadstar recommendation also, they don't seem to pop up too often but am keeping an eye out.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,866
Location
claremont california
I like both older styles of the Herc. And the Oakbrook. Personally, the oakbrook fits better because of the narrow shoulders. I have about 8 of the jackets from different periods. They are all nice however, the oakbrook's quality is better than the older Hec. I know it does not make sense because the Oakbrook came later after the Herc but it is weird in my view because the leather and quality of the Oakbrook is just better. There has been some writing about the subject, and some members have sold the oakbrook at a great price. P.M. me if you want more details about the subject.

Here is the link: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...eather-only-one-ive-seen.114345/#post-3107199

oakbrook.jpg
 
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jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
I like both older styles of the Herc. And the Oakbrook. Personally, the oakbrook fits better because of the narrow shoulders. I have about 8 of the jackets from different periods. They are all nice however, the oakbrook's quality is better than the older Hec. I know it does not make sense because the Oakbrook came later after the Herc but it is weird in my view because the leather and quality of the Oakbrook is just better. There has been some writing about the subject, and some members have sold the oakbrook at a great price. P.M. me if you want more details about the subject.

Here is the link: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...eather-only-one-ive-seen.114345/#post-3107199

View attachment 735806

How do you spot the early Oakbrook that is supposedly better in quality than the Herc? Is it the steerhide tag by Roughwear, shown below? Or is it the red lining? Or both?

IMG_0944.jpeg
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,866
Location
claremont california
How do you spot the early Oakbrook that is supposedly better in quality than the Herc? Is it the steerhide tag by Roughwear, shown below? Or is it the red lining? Or both?

View attachment 735807
The label. It is different from the later production one. Also, the lining is black. Lastly of course is the hardware. Personally, I believe both the Herc and the Oakbrook labels were produced by CSC during that particular production run. The steer in those production yeas has always been more pliable and thicker than the horse. I love the steer, which is very similar to durable and Buco. I have some Bucos from that period and the leather is almost identical to the CSC leathers used for this particular jackets.

20231230_080121.jpg
 
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NAB

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
I like both older styles of the Herc. And the Oakbrook. Personally, the oakbrook fits better because of the narrow shoulders. I have about 8 of the jackets from different periods. They are all nice however, the oakbrook's quality is better than the older Hec. I know it does not make sense because the Oakbrook came later after the Herc but it is weird in my view because the leather and quality of the Oakbrook is just better. There has been some writing about the subject, and some members have sold the oakbrook at a great price. P.M. me if you want more details about the subject.

Here is the link: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...eather-only-one-ive-seen.114345/#post-3107199

View attachment 735806
Very much appreciated, photo2u, I'll take you up on that if and when anything springs to mind. I'd belatedly read that Oakbrook thread and kicked myself for not being around then. It really is an absolute beauty and I've never seen another like it, on sale or otherwise — the closest being the red-lined through belts like the below and they don't look quite as heavy duty and/or sellers are trying for delusional prices. Either way, the difference between the early Oakbrooks and those that came after is incredible.

1760220718713.png
 

jchance

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,203
Location
LA
Very much appreciated, photo2u, I'll take you up on that if and when anything springs to mind. I'd belatedly read that Oakbrook thread and kicked myself for not being around then. It really is an absolute beauty and I've never seen another like it, on sale or otherwise — the closest being the red-lined through belts like the below and they don't look quite as heavy duty and/or sellers are trying for delusional prices. Either way, the difference between the early Oakbrooks and those that came after is incredible.

View attachment 736035

Early oakbrook is really rare, you didn’t miss out much. I could only find another one in the wild, a total of 2 in existence that have survived the test of time. This one doesn’t have the black lining.


IMG_0985.jpeg
 
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photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,866
Location
claremont california
Early oakbrook is really rare, you didn’t miss out much. I could only find another one in the wild, a total of 2 in existence that have survived the test of time. This one doesn’t have the black lining.


View attachment 736067
Those were made a little later due to the lining color. I have known, that lining was used by several high-end makers who took advantage of the Korean War surpluses. I was able to get my hands on a roll of that durable fabric. As a mater of fact, the material was the same used by the USAF in their flight garments.
Beautiful jacket truly. Personally, I believe the lining color was just a marketing strategy used by sears.
 

NAB

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
The blue isn't bad either! Both beautiful jackets and great to know more about the fabrics.
 

NAB

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
On a separate note, received this PM that seems to be claiming to represent an established member but has a few warning signs... Wanted to flag but wasn't sure how best to.

Screenshot 2025-10-12 at 10.31.31.png
 

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