“Custom Leather Jacket Design – Balancing Motion and Fit”

[Carlos840]

So from what you guys are saying, this guy has a history of messing up jackets himself and then blaming the maker? If that’s the case, that’s pretty serious. Especially when going after names like Stuart — from what I’ve heard, he’s known for being meticulous, so it’s hard to believe he’d send out something with obvious defects like that.
Sounds like this whole pattern of stirring up drama on the forum might’ve started way back when he was using the HammerKlavier handle. If that’s true, then this wouldn’t be the first time.

I'm not making that claim, i'm just showing you the picture he posted, saying that jacket was brand new and had reached him that way straight from LW, you reach to conclusions you want to reach....

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I'm not making that claim, i'm just showing you the picture he posted, saying that jacket was brand new and had reached him that way straight from LW, you reach to conclusions you want to reach....

Got it, thanks for clearing that up

 

[El Marro]

Let's not build statues to that guy, if he was a legend it wasn't for good reasons...

I completely agree, and I didnt think my post above could be misinterpreted as lionizing the man. But just to clear up any confusion, I think HH121 was a crazy *** hat.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I completely agree, and I didnt think my post above could be misinterpreted as lionizing the man. But just to clear up any confusion, I think HH121 was a crazy *** hat.

Thank goodness I didn’t turn into him ))))))

 

[El Marro]

Thank goodness I didn’t turn into him ))))))

Please don’t. Be yourself but be nice.

 

[Arnold]

I mean when you acuse makers of sending you brand new jackets with defects like that you are going to "sour on people", any body who has dealt with Stuart knows he wouldn't send this out:



Similar things happened under his previous handle "HammerKlavier".

Let's not build statues to that guy, if he was a legend it wasn't for good reasons...

In 2014 Stuart sent out a custom Short sized jacket (at least 25 % surcharge) that was custom Short only on one side. And if you go back to around that time and earlier on this forum, before you became a Lost Worlds customer, there were several stories of him sending out partially defective jackets.

Back then he seemed to spend a lot of time writing lengthy rants about people who dared to "collect" his jackets and post "effeminate" fit pics on "egregious" forums and I suppose that may have distracted him a bit from quality control.

I guess he has changed in both regards because nowadays he can't survive without that type of customer while at the same time sending out those older types of defects to anyone posting prolifically on socials would result in amounts of bad publicity he didn't anticipate ten years ago.

Please get your history right, as much as you may like Stuart and/ or the products he sent out to you.

On another note, OP's style reads like heavy use of ChatGPT or similar.

 

[Carlos840]

In 2014 Stuart sent out a custom Short sized jacket (at least 25 % surcharge) that was custom Short only on one side. And if you go back to around that time and earlier on this forum, before you became a Lost Worlds customer, there were several stories of him sending out partially defective jackets.

Back then he seemed to spend a lot of time writing lengthy rants about people who dared to "collect" his jackets and post "effeminate" fit pics on "egregious" forums and I suppose that may have distracted him a bit from quality control.

I guess he has changed in both regards because nowadays he can't survive without that type of customer while at the same time sending out those older types of defects to anyone posting prolifically on socials would result in amounts of bad publicity he didn't anticipate ten years ago.

Please get your history right, as much as you may like Stuart and/ or the products he sent out to you.

On another note, OP's style reads like heavy use of ChatGPT or similar.

What does that even mean? "that was custom Short only on one side"
Did it have a 26" sleeve and a 23" sleeve?

It's a great story though, thanks.

 

[adanjones]

This is a design concept I’ve been working on — aiming to create a jacket that offers European-style range of motion while maintaining the sleekness and fit typical of Asian tailoring.
Before discussing this further with a brand, I’d love to hear your feedback on whether the idea looks solid.
⸻
Leather:
• Black Oil Tanned Wax Finish Horséhide
• If that’s not available, any leather with a high wax pigment content would be acceptable.
• Thickness: 1.2–1.4mm, depending on discussion with the brand.
⸻
Pattern / Form:
• The base pattern is inspired by the Delraiser or a similar layout.
• The reason I prefer the Delraiser is because I like how the D-pocket and chest pocket run parallel to the main zipper, unlike the layout on the Buco J24.
• I’d also like to add epaulettes and side adjuster tabs at the hem. View attachment 717098
Lining:
I’m planning to use quilted satin for the body lining.
⸻
Collar and Fur Lining:
Some members on the forum have suggested options like thermal scarves or neck warmers — I’ve tried those before. In the end, I went with the removable collar/back fur lining from a Schott 184SM and fitted it into my 611H.

It worked surprisingly well, so I’m planning to do something similar for this jacket.

This time, I want to adjust the fur size slightly — instead of using a thick, full-sized panel, I’ll keep the fur just enough to cover the visible collar surface. That way it won’t look too bulky and keeps a balanced visual.

For the body fur lining, here’s the idea:
Since the jacket will have a form somewhere between slim and straight, with a slight taper at the waist, there should still be enough room for the fur lining without making the jacket look overly bulky when worn.
(My Schott is quite snug, yet I was still able to install the 184SM lining and found it worked fine — so I believe this plan is feasible.)
⸻
Functionality:
The back panel of the Delraiser features an action back that extends all the way to the hem, which helps a lot with forward arm movement, especially when bringing the arms up parallel to the ground. View attachment 717100
Approach 1:
Raise the armhole to increase upward mobility.
(I believe the gain in range is minimal, but it does improve the overall aesthetic and silhouette.)
View attachment 717112
Approach 2:
Add a diamond-shaped underarm gusset to further support upward arm movement.
This would help reduce stress on the armhole when lifting the arms, and allow for a more natural range of motion without distorting the jacket’s silhouette.
View attachment 717113 View attachment 717114
Approach 3:
Use a gusset similar to the one found on Schott or the Saint Laurent L17.
This currently seems like the most promising option, though it might be less clean visually.
It allows for easier lateral and overhead movement, partly due to the slightly relaxed fit on those jackets.
However, if applied to a more fitted silhouette, I believe the effectiveness might be noticeably reduced.
View attachment 717115 View attachment 717117
Approach 4:
Have them build the sleeve angle to naturally pitch upward at around 70 degrees relative to the ground.
This would create built-in range of motion for lifting the arms.
(When the arms are relaxed and hanging down, they will naturally bend at the elbow — as shown in the illustration.)
View attachment 717118
Approach 5:
Use a more flexible type of leather in specific areas to take advantage of its natural stretch.
This, combined with a higher armhole, would allow better arm lift.
(Since the leather in this zone is softer than the rest of the jacket, raising the armhole won’t cause discomfort under the armpit.)
View attachment 717119
The sleeves should be pitched forward at about 20–25°, with a natural elbow bend of roughly 45–60°, to support a relaxed riding posture while still looking balanced when standing.
It’s always interesting to see how people try to merge different tailoring traditions, especially when it comes to leather jackets — the structure really changes depending on the movement you want to allow. When I’ve worked on visual concepts like this, laying everything out cleanly helps a lot before talking to a brand. I usually drop my sketches and reference layouts into https://decksy.com/ just to see how the patterns flow together and whether the details feel coherent. From my experience, once you organize the design visually, it becomes much easier to judge if the concept is solid or needs tweaking.

Looks like you’ve put a lot of thought into the materials and layout already

 

[unhatted]

On another note, OP's style reads like heavy use of ChatGPT or similar.

That’s completely fair and I can understand why you would think that. From what you are saying, OP’s tendency to repeat back what others are suggesting while agreeing and praising their input is making you suspect the use of chat GPT. That’s an excellent point and I’ll certainly give it some consideration as I continue to browse the forum!