Insights on Freewheelers. Is Mulholland overpriced/overrated at the moment?

[PeterHuang]

I am ready to splurge on a grail leather jacket (used is fine, just new to me), and I am looking in the 3 to 4k range. The one that keeps haunting me is the Freewheelers Mulholland, mostly because of pure FOMO if I am honest. So I would love to hear from people who actually own or have handled Freewheelers. Is it really worth that kind of money, or is it just another high end piece sitting beside Himel, Field Leathers, Thedi, Lost Worlds, Real McCoy’s, Rainbow Country, and the rest? Basically, am I buying a masterpiece or just an expensive piece of horsehide?

Leather​

Let’s start with the leather. What actually makes Freewheelers horsehide special? I read on @dudewuttheheck’s blog that they use proprietary hides from Shinki and do the finishing in house. But how much difference does that really make in durability or aging? From what I understand, they probably pick better rawhides, thicker and cleaner ones with fewer scars. The tanning process itself should still be pit vegetable like any other Shinki, so I am not sure how “proprietary” it can really get unless they are using some secret Japanese veggie potion in the pits.

Then there is the dye. Most Shinki horsehide is aniline drum dyed, but Freewheelers has that famous Rude Black which is dyed gray instead of blue underneath. That sounds cool, but I wonder if it actually changes how the jacket fades or if it is more of a bragging detail.

And about the finishing, they say it is all done in house, but does anyone really know how? To get that patina magic later, they would have to layer pigment over the base color. Maybe they have their own recipe that makes it wear more beautifully. I assume they seal it with oil or wax instead of resin or PU so it stays natural and soft.

Construction​

Everyone praises Freewheelers for flawless stitching and high SPI. But honestly, my Real McCoy’s J24 and A2 are also super clean. So while that is impressive, it might not be something that sets them far apart from other top Japanese makers.

Hardware and lining​

People rarely talk about this part. Do they do anything special with the hardware or the lining? Or is it just solid, period correct stuff like everyone else uses?

Design​

Now this is probably where Freewheelers really shines. Their jackets carry a strong heritage vibe but do not feel trapped in the past. The founder used to work at Real McCoy’s and left because he was tired of copying old patterns stitch for stitch. Freewheelers became his way to take that heritage spirit and make it cooler and more personal. I have to admit, their designs might be the best in Japan, sharp and full of character.

That said, when design becomes the main reason for the price, it starts to feel more like paying for a designer label. And that is where I hesitate, because a good made to order maker could probably build something with a similar look and vibe.

So…​

What do you all think? Is spending 3 to 4k on a Mulholland actually justifiable, or are there better ways to feed my horsehide addiction without wrecking my wallet?

 

[TartuWolf]

Grossly overpriced in my opinion, nowhere near worth the retail price. But if you can get a used one for 1k max then it might be worth trying and flipping without much loss if it doesn't work out. The only maker that charges similar prices and is worth it is Lost Worlds in my opinion. Stuff from RMC, Himel, Freewheelers and the like is grossly overpriced.

 

[PeterHuang]

I am also trying to get more insights about this brand, so I would love to hear people’s thoughts on why it might be considered overpriced based on the points above.

Grossly overpriced in my opinion, nowhere near worth the retail price. But if you can get a used one for 1k max then it might be worth trying and flipping without much loss if it doesn't work out. The only maker that charges similar prices and is worth it is Lost Worlds in my opinion. Stuff from RMC, Himel, Freewheelers and the like is grossly overpriced.

 

[MrProper]

Ultimately, it is always an individual decision whether something is worth it or not. For me, it would not be worth it because there is simply nothing about it that makes me feel like I absolutely must have it, whatever the cost.

 

[ABCD]

For me personally the Mulholland's pattern didn't work. Apparently other people had the same experience as a bunch of them showed in the classifieds in pretty much unworn condition. The fit is really boxy.

The hardware is OK but not great, the zippers feel somewhat flimsy as compared to YKK/Universal. The Mulhollands' leather is stiff and I feel it needs beefier hardware.

The leather is nice but don't expect something earth shaking. It's a high end leather, there are many high end leathers.

Freewheelers' construction quality is good but definitely not flawless. Thedi, Field leathers and Regius (boutique maker) are better in that respect.

Is it worth $3k- $4k? Hard to say. For the money I can get two boutique jackets that are custom made, have better hardware, nicer stitching and a better pattern. But that's personal preference. If you really want a Mulholland then you should get a Mulholland.

Edit: this thread might be helpful...

Needed help for freewheelers leather mulholland sizing

Hi everyone, I am new to this big family, but I've been reading posts for quite sometime. Since here are lot of expertise of leather jacket, I would like to ask for some advices on sizing. I've been looking for a freewheelers mulholland jacket for long time. I usually wear a 36, but the...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[Tom71]

I have only owned (and still own) the Mulholland, so this is not about Freewheelers leathers in general.

Price:

I don’t think you need to spend USD 3-4k on a lightly used Mulholland. I would say more like USD 2,5-3, depending on size. That is unless you are after a specific colour variant.

At this price, it’s not more or less “overrated” than RMC. That said, I wouldn’t even consider paying “new” prices for either in Europe (I am aware that FW doesn’t offer leather at the moment).

Leather:

Nice Shinki. Period.

Nice heft, nice grain, nice smell. Everything as one would expect. My jacket came with a pronounced grain, but that doesn’t make it “better” than other Shinki offers I have tried.
As a strictly personal, anecdotal comment, I‘d say a bit more interesting than RMC, a bit more substantial than the “grainy” Shinki Greg Field offered in his early days. A bit less “luxurious“ than Himel’s “oil-tan” and a bit more impressive than his “pigment-dye”.

Construction is flawless, stitching is neat but not better than RMC or Y2.

Hardware is a joke, also as with RMC. I cannot for the life of me figure out what went wrong in people’s life to offer a multi-thousand dollar jacket with “NOS” zippers that break when the temperature drops by more than ten degrees.
Why not do a “faithful” Repro using - e.g. - YKK/Universal standards?

Lining is a thick and warm, slightly itchy wool. Looks nice, pretty rugged, but is a bit too much for my personal taste. I favour heat-retention via layering and prefer a lighter lining to get more versatility, but it’s not a dealbreaker for me.

All in all, I am still pleased with the Mulholland. I wear it rarely but I always enjoy it, when I do, and for me it works as a collector’s item as much as a piece of clothing. I dont feel I overpaid, and I am not tempted to sell.

If this is your grail piece, I don’t think you’d be disappointed. If it’s just the allure of something rare and pricey, I’d probably turn someplace else, but even then it’s still a nice jacket. You don’t see them that often anymore, which is a bonus for me.

If there’s anything specific you’d like to know, just ask away.

These are my submissions.

 

[sirkris]

ABCD has mentioned about Mullholland pattern.
I think it is not jacket for everyone.
I like slim fit jackets but I am sure I will not be able to match every jackets.
I am 175 cm 75 kg I do not have belly but I have hips wider than belt - it is not because I am fat - it is more like my hip bones have been designed in such way..
I have shown below my body shape. And I think this is a shape Mullholland may be for:

And there is a lot of jackets which are perfectly matching body shape: V which I have shown with blue line.
But I think I will not be able to achieve perfect fit with V shape jackets. I would have to have it very short starting above the belt line but it would be too short. Or I would have it too wide if I start with my hip level, But it would be baggy (but maybe with some layers under it would be OK - I may try in future).
The Mullholland pattern allows me to have slim fit jacket with my body shape.

 

[PeterHuang]

Thank you all for the helpful information!

To answer @ABCD and @Tom71, it doesn’t have to be Mulholland, it’s just that a lot of people talk about it as a grail piece. To be honest, I just received a good amount of bonuses thanks to my hard work, so I want to spurge 3-4k on a jacket as a present for myself. Something that I don’t consider wearing everyday, but it should be eye-catching and well-respected not only for the general public but also for folks who are deep into this niche. Can be anything from Freewheelers such as the Brakeman, the Switchyard Coat, the La Brea,… or from any other makers, as long as it fits into the criteria I mentioned above. I already own several pieces from Real Mccoy, Fine Creeks, Y2, Rainbow Country, Aero,… so looking for something more unique and above the pieces I already have. I am totally open to suggestions.

As for Freewheelers, I am just genuinely curious about what sets them apart, why people talk about them as the legendary maker or the best of all. If the reasons are solid, I am not shy away from spending money on them. Just so you know, I would never spend that amount on a YSL jacket even if I am able to.. From all the discussions above, constructions and hardwares are not what make them stand out. I am curious about their leather, what is so special about their proprietary Shinki and their in-house finish process. Does it require much more labor than leather used by Himel or Field leather? So if we don’t talk about money here, what makes you guys decide to put on a Freewheelers in a meeting of all leather nerds, or is it just a nice piece in your collection and you would rather go with another piece for showing off your unique taste?

 

[PeterHuang]

ABCD has mentioned about Mullholland pattern.
I think it is not jacket for everyone.
I like slim fit jackets but I am sure I will not be able to match every jackets.
I am 175 cm 75 kg I do not have belly but I have hips wider than belt - it is not because I am fat - it is more like my hip bones have been designed in such way..
I have shown below my body shape. And I think this is a shape Mullholland may be for:
View attachment 745135 View attachment 745139

And there is a lot of jackets which are perfectly matching body shape: V which I have shown with blue line.
But I think I will not be able to achieve perfect fit with V shape jackets. I would have to have it very short starting above the belt line but it would be too short. Or I would have it too wide if I start with my hip level, But it would be baggy (but maybe with some layers under it would be OK - I may try in future).
The Mullholland pattern allows me to have slim fit jacket with my body shape.

Thank you, that's very insightful! Do you have other pieces from Freewheelers? What do you think about their fit and leather in general?

 

[ABCD]

As for Freewheelers, I am just genuinely curious about what sets them apart, why people talk about them as the legendary maker or the best of all.

Hype, limited availability, interesting designs, influencers like @dudewuttheheck who made Youtube videos on Freewheelers being 'the best'. Mostly subjective traits.

So if we don’t talk about money here, what makes you guys decide to put on a Freewheelers in a meeting of all leather nerds, or is it just a nice piece in your collection and you would rather go with another piece for showing off your unique taste?

I currently own about 65 leather jackets, of which one is a Freewheelers, the Sunset. It's a great pattern, a very comfortable jacket to wear. I wear the jacket two or three times a year, which is less than most of my other jackets.

It's not a jacket I grab when going to a meetup, simply because to me it isn't all that special or unique. When going to a meetup I bring either a custom one-off piece or some vintage grail that's next to impossible to obtain.

but it should be eye-catching and well-respected not only for the general public but also for folks who are deep into this niche.

I actually think that a FW jacket is mostly eye-catching to people who have heard about the brand but never seen/handled one in the flesh. For people who are deep into the niche it's just an off the rack jacket that anyone can get as long as you have the dough.

 

[PeterHuang]

Hype, limited availability, interesting designs, influencers like @dudewuttheheck who made Youtube videos on Freewheelers being 'the best'. Mostly subjective traits.


I currently own about 65 leather jackets, of which one is a Freewheelers, the Sunset. It's a great pattern, a very comfortable jacket to wear. I wear the jacket two or three times a year, which is less than most of my other jackets.

It's not a jacket I grab when going to a meetup, simply because to me it isn't all that special or unique. When going to a meetup I bring either a custom one-off piece or some vintage grail that's next to impossible to obtain.


I actually think that a FW jacket is mostly eye-catching to people who have heard about the brand but never seen/handled one in the flesh. For people who are deep into the niche it's just an off the rack jacket that anyone can get as long as you have the dough.

Very interesting viewpoints, I will keep that in mind! Do you mind sharing some custom one-off pieces that you consider unique for you?

 

[ABCD]

Very interesting viewpoints, I will keep that in mind! Do you mind sharing some custom one-off pieces that you consider unique for you?

This Thedi 50s style motorcycle jacket was unique when I commissioned it.

This is one of my current custom projects in the making, it's a mix and match of design elements from different 1940s Minnesota Woolen designs.

The originals that served as inspiration:

More jackets on my Instagram

www.instagram.com/coolleatherjackets

 

[Zoro]

it doesn’t have to be Mulholland, it’s just that a lot of people talk about it as a grail piece

Something that I don’t consider wearing everyday, but it should be eye-catching and well-respected not only for the general public but also for folks who are deep into this niche

These are perilous roads to take IMO. Like you're not doing this for yourself but to impress some random people both in the street and the internet.

Also worth to point out that if you want something eye catching and well respected for both the general public and the niche, it just won't happen, or perhaps with some Ralph Lauren piece? And still the common folk won't even notice.

Personally, I would rather something unique to myself.

 

[jeo]

I’ve owned 5 Freewheelers jackets. I currently own none. They are ridiculously overpriced at the moment. If it’s the designs you’re attracted to, there are cheaper alternatives. If it’s the cachet that comes with buying and owning a “grail”, Freewheelers or otherwise, it’s overrated. No one will know or care that you have a Freewheelers. Buy something for yourself.

 

[cbez]

The good thing with buying the top of the market is they keep their resale value. Especially if you buy used. It's like a Porsche. In that sense it's hard to say they are overpriced since you can just resell it and make your money back.

My freewheelers wool jacket is basically a grail piece I can see myself keeping forever.

Their leather jackets aren't exactly my style and I can't see myself paying the current values.

 

[cbez]

I really wanted a Bodie at one point but my tastes have changed somewhat.

 

[cbez]

https://jp.mercari.com/item/m87167042388

There are deals to be found, this one could probably be had for about 1200 usd after shipping, discounts, tariffs all shake out

 

[sirkris]

Do you have other pieces from Freewheelers? What do you think about their fit and leather in general?

No. I have had Eastman Luftwafe Ostman horsehide jacket for 15 years (but I am going to sell it as I lost weight).
It was my first leather jacket and I think it is great. It was very stiff when new and it took me couple years to break it (but I was saving it and wearing it occasionally). I only can compare to this jacket.
Freewheelers shinki leather is great.
The Eastman was made with many different quality parts of horsehide leather and I would say 40% was top smooth quality and rest was different quality. But it was giving the jacket rough look and I loved this impression. In Mullholland 90-95 % of the leather is the same top quality. The leather is very stiff and gives you impression it is special.
The stitching and craftsmanship details of the jacket are perfect.
The side straps on the waist were sticking out, and I had to add extra belt loops (I made them with black isolation tape- will do proper leather loops when I buy some black leather pieces (I may make pocket zipper puller with straps as well).
The zipper - I read a lot about its weakness and I zip it very carefully - it does not look robust. When I am driving I always unzip the jacket -I am scared it may break at the bottom. I was not afraid of this with my Eastman. I did not like ball chains - I replaced them with cheap metal pullers.
About fitting:
I bought it second hand based on my body measurements and jacket dimensions (I checked my dimensions on many denim jackets in dressing rooms- I ended with the word table of 15 jackets with measurements and comments how I feel with such dimensions and styles). And the jacket dimensions were as I expected. I think I was lucky (I paid attention to the advert only because the length was 59cm when this size of jacket has 63cm. I do not know the reason of this shorter length). If this jacket is 4 cm longer it would not be good on me I think. But based on my table I would not buy it if it is 63)
The one thing which is important is chest dimension (p2p) - in my case it is not tight (I can see there is still some space but when I start to move arms forward and high with zipped jacket I feel it is too tight and not comfortable. But as I do not work in this jacket on site such arm movements are not natural and uncommon. I think it is because sleeves perimeter where they join shoulder and chest is small. If you have bigger sleeve holes they would add couple cm in chest even if pit to pit dimension would be the same when you move arms. This is part of the jacket design and style, not disadvantage but it would be worth to know about this this if you only trust pit to pit dimension. Maybe with wider sleeves the jacket would not look so great.
My another personal feeling is that this jacket should not be tight at the waist level. If I wear trousers with thicker leather belt I have feeling the jacket is too tight generally, even at chest or ribs. But with the gap between the trousers and jacket I do not have such feeling.
I am not sure if this leather will stretch with time- it looks thick and stiff. Also I do not know how much softer the leather will be with time. For me the advantage may be a teacore patina effect. I do not need to have quickly that brown patina but I saw some photos of some old jackets and it looks great. If Mullholland has similar patina with time it would be great.
My personal opinion about the value:
It is very relative... These days proper new leather jackets start at £1.2k = $ 1500. New custom made jackets start at £1.5k=$1900. Based on the above taking into account quality of the leather, stitching, jacket style I would price it at $1500-2000. But this is only based on compare with other jacket prices. Should you buy it? I do not know.
If I could afford it and dreamed of having it, I would buy it. I know myself and I know it would be sitting in my head all the time (how it would be to have Mullholland). Even if it is not what I expect I would tick the dream is done and would free my head for another dream. But I had many dreams which becomes disappointments when they came true.
Hopefully with Mullholland I hope it will be easy to sell- not many of them on ebay in UK and EU. And in 10 years it may be so expensive I will buy a house for its price when I sell it

 

[cbez]

Why does this feel chatgpt? Are you using it to rewrite your posts? Please stop lol

Also, smooth leather is not necessarily 'top quality' or qualitatively different than grainy leather.

 

[sirkris]

Why does this feel chatgpt? Are you using it to rewrite your posts? Please stop lol

Also, smooth leather is not necessarily 'top quality' or qualitatively different than grainy leather.

I am sorry - I indeed used chatgpt to fix errors im my English post (English is not my native language). I replaced it now with my original post with mistakes ;-)