Made to order measurement questions

[Matsumoto]

Hi All,

I'm contacting a few manufacturers (Double Helix most notably) to make me a jacket as I've been looking for a RMC type 1 for ages but they don't pop up in my size very often. DH don't make the type 1 in the same proportions as the RMC does, going for a much slimmer fit. I like the way the RMC jacket fits, as shown in the pictures below. It's slightly oversized, and very boxy which is exactly how the original denim type 1 fit. I've got a denim type 1 with the exact same measurements as the RMC type 1 and it fits how I'd like it to (large in the chest and shoulders while perfectly sized in the sleeves and length).

I've asked DH about making a version of their type 1 in the same proportions as the RMC jacket, with regard to sizing is this a bad idea? Am I likely to get an ill fitting jacket this way?

I'm unfortunately unable to try on a RMC type 1 in person as they are sold out everywhere, so I don't know how it'll fit me in comparison to my denim type 1. DH has suggested that the measurements I've given them are pretty much the same as a larger size of their type 1, and so they'll just shorten the length and sleeves of one of those. My logic is that both the RMC and DH jackets are using pretty much the same material with pretty much the same thickness in pretty much the same pattern, so the measurements should translate.

I appreciate any advice, thank you for reading.

 

[Bennarion]

It's also a great option
https://y-2leather.com/en/products/230
https://y-2leather.com/en/products/231
https://y-2leather.com/en/products/89
https://y-2leather.com/en/products/87

 

[Matsumoto]

I like Y'2 Leather, have owned a few. My only gripe is that they don't fit how I'd like them to

 

[Tom71]

I like Y'2 Leather, have owned a few. My only gripe is that they don't fit how I'd like them to

Ok, that surprises me a bit. I find the Type 1 from Y2 is truly boxy, with no taper whatsoever. How do you like to alter the fit so that it suits your preferences?

 

[Matsumoto]

Ok, that surprises me a bit. I find the Type 1 from Y2 is truly boxy, with no taper whatsoever. How do you like to alter the fit so that it suits your preferences?

I'd personally like them to be made shorter for the sizes that fit my chest and shoulders; they're fairly slim as far as type 1's go when compared to the traditional Levi's 506xx. That says nothing of the craftsmanship though, great jackets.

 

[Bfd70]

MY limited experience (1 jacket) is to trust dh.

 

[Matsumoto]

MY limited experience (1 jacket) is to trust dh.

Thanks for the reply, they seem like a good company and have been very helpful over email. I hope my gamble with sizing pays off.

 

[Bfd70]

I asked some very detailed and specific questions about sizing since returning to them would be a pita. They were very knowledgeable about there product

 

[Tom71]

I'd personally like them to be made shorter for the sizes that fit my chest and shoulders; they're fairly slim as far as type 1's go when compared to the traditional Levi's 506xx. That says nothing of the craftsmanship though, great jackets.

Ok, fair. They are not really short; I agree.

 

[Monitor]

The third photo, of the guy standing, that's got to be the most offensive fit that I have ever seen. It is astonishing now ill fitting everything on him is.

 

[Matsumoto]

The third photo, of the guy standing, that's got to be the most offensive fit that I have ever seen. It is astonishing now ill fitting everything on him is.

Haha, he's the model (standard?) for Standard and Strange! I personally like the way the jacket drapes over his shoulders but I've got a weird sense of style

 

[Monitor]

Haha, he's the model (standard?) for Standard and Strange! I personally like the way the jacket drapes over his shoulders but I've got a weird sense of style

The jacket in itself is okay but combined with those mom jeans... It's both too large and too small on him at once. The cap really rounds up the entire look although they should've went all in and had him wear a propeller beanie.

 

[marker2037]

Haha that’s Gen from Standard & Strange. I think a lot of things look good on him, however I have to agree with Monitor that this fit is just terrible overall; from the jeans to the jacket, it just fits all wrong everywhere.

 

[philli]

I have experience with double helix type 1. I bought it MTM and the thing still ended up just a tad too tight. I had a back and forth with Matsuda and he advised me to go size 40 but i really needed a 42. It was quite restrictive when crossing my arms but most likely due to high arm hole positioning on that jacket. Otherwise, visually the jacket looked good on me and did not look tight.

I ended up selling it but if i had to do it all over again i would have went with my instinct and sized up. If you want a boxy fit, just size it up and shorten the length of the jacket and the sleeves if they are too long. I was able to make the jacket shorter for a more cropped fit for an extra charge. You can check their site to see their pricing on adjustments.

Just for reference, their size 40 measured 21 inches from pit to pit. Which means there was literally one inch of chest ease. I would aim for 2 inches of chest ease especially if you plan to layer sweaters. But for what its worth, the leather is really nice with lots of character. The sheen is great and i believe they use pit tanning methods. The smell was also pleasant. I've handled Y2 in person and to me, double helix leather is superior to Y2

 

[Matsumoto]

I have experience with double helix type 1. I bought it MTM and the thing still ended up just a tad too tight. I had a back and forth with Matsuda and he advised me to go size 40 but i really needed a 42. It was quite restrictive when crossing my arms but most likely due to high arm hole positioning on that jacket. Otherwise, visually the jacket looked good on me and did not look tight.

I ended up selling it but if i had to do it all over again i would have went with my instinct and sized up. If you want a boxy fit, just size it up and shorten the length of the jacket and the sleeves if they are too long. I was able to make the jacket shorter for a more cropped fit for an extra charge. You can check their site to see their pricing on adjustments.

Just for reference, their size 40 measured 21 inches from pit to pit. Which means there was literally one inch of chest ease. I would aim for 2 inches of chest ease especially if you plan to layer sweaters. But for what its worth, the leather is really nice with lots of character. The sheen is great and i believe they use pit tanning methods. The smell was also pleasant. I've handled Y2 in person and to me, double helix leather is superior to Y2

This is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for, thank you. I'm going for a size 44, which should fit my chest bang on like my denim type 1 (which already gives me a load of room in the chest).

 

[philli]

Hope it works out for you. Their black teacore, and seal brown are the best colors they offer in my opinion. I was really impressed with both of those and you can probaby find people on ig wearing them too if you want a better look in different lighting.

Not sure if its just me but the finishing on Y2 just feels flat/dull. The sheen on it was disappointing. I'd take double helix over Y2 any day. The only other thing I would say is that the double helix horsehide is a b**** to break in. You need to really wear it as your daily jacket for like a month or two straight

 

[Matsumoto]

Is the seal brown the same as the middle brown on their website? That's excellent to hear about the leather, I can't wait.

 

[philli]

this guy rocks the seal brown from DH. Everytime i look at this im tempted to place an order

 

[Matsumoto]

this guy rocks the seal brown from DH. Everytime i look at this im tempted to place an order

View attachment 776262 View attachment 776263

That's a very pretty colour indeed. I'm going for the black teacore and the middle brown teacore in two separate jackets. I would like a darker and lighter jacket so unfortunately the seal brown just doesn't fit with that, although if I had to get a third this would be it!

 

[Matsumoto]

this guy rocks the seal brown from DH. Everytime i look at this im tempted to place an order

View attachment 776262 View attachment 776263

Thanks again for all your help mate, you've calmed my worries about the whole process. I'll send you some pictures down the line when I receive the jackets.